Ford 800 5 speed

Forum Members,
Attempted again to start the 800 today and failed. Ignition is the problem. There is current to the coil. Opened the distributor and checked the points and they seemed fine. Closed the points with ignition on and opened with a screwdriver. There was no spark. Changed the condenser and spark appeared. Tried to start and found no spark at the plugs. Would it be correct to change out the coil? That is the next step. Any other help is appreciated. To gain speed on turnover have been using a 12 volt on the starter only.
Mr. T. Minnesota

No.

Most probably the problem is corrosion on the contact surfaces.

Currently available contact sets are of very poor quality and will corrode within days of use.

Burnish the contacts with an IBM card (if you can find one) or a piece of Brown paper bag. Repeat until you see sparking at the points (points closed and key on) when manually opening with a screw driver between the distributor shaft and the insulating rubbing block. Do not use a point file unless you want to do this just about every time you start it.

I nearly always must do this when starting my vintage Fords if left unstarted for more than a few days.

Dean

This is a no brains needed test for the points. Pull the ignition side wire off the coil. Then with the points closed touch the wire back on to the coil. If you do not see a spark then the points are bad or need to be clean if they are closed. It is not rocket science and is simple to check no test tools needed just common sense. Points close if you do not see a spark well duh point as not conducting power so need cleaned or replace. I have been using this test since I was around 15 years old

The spark normally happens when the points open, not when they close.

I can think of a couple of scenarios where the points could be perfectly fine and your test will not work.

You are correct to think that doing this test will more times than not show bad points
BUT
It is not as fool proof as the test does not work; the points have to be bad.

also check the little wire going from the coil to the points, make sure it is good and does not short where it goes into the distribitor to the points. Most distribitors also have a little ground wire from the points mount to the houseing that must be good.

Bingo, Sean.

Dean

Yes once in a blue moon it may not work but 95% of the time it does and it is an easy way to check things out and you need no test any thing to do it

Good info given so far.

Put a test lamp inline with the coil so you can see visual ref when points are opened and closed. This helps sniff out open primaries, shorts at distributor feedthru, points, and condensor, plus's small wire from coil to dizzy. Once this all checks, then its on to the secondary side.

Something similar on my 641, it wouldn't start yesterday. I couldn't get spark from the plugs so I disconnected a wire and used a spare spark
plug that I grounded to the frame. I am getting voltage through the the coil, checked it with a multimeter. I had previously purchased new wires
(that needed cut to size) and a distributor cap. I swapped out with the new stuff and still didn't start. Of course, it was in the sun and in the
upper 90's yesterday. So I brought out the 801 and swapped out the brush hog. Longer lift arms on the 801, so a trip to the local farm supply
store to get an extension for the pto shaft. Got the brush cleared. Once it got dark, I went back out to the problem child. When I turned the key,
sparks jumped from the spark plug, but when I hit the starter button, no ignition... So, I picked up a new key switch a little bit ago. Will replace
it out when the shade catches up to the tractor. I had replaced the points and condenser with an electronic ignition last fall. Hoping this will
work. This is on a 12 volt alternator conversion that I did about 8 years ago. Will update this later tonight.

If you have spark at your points, voltage got there via the
primary side of your coil, so that side at least is conducting
.
When you open and close the points manually, use a non-
conductive tool. Plastic or a piece of wood. Do the contacts
spark then? If so, check for spark at the coil wire instead of
the plug wires. Do you have spark there? You can test it by
laying/holding it a 1/4 inch away from a good ground and
opening the points while the key is on. Use leather gloves or
an insulated tool if you are holding it so you don't get zapped.

Trying to narrow it down to where it sparks and where it doesn't.