Rear axle seals leaking Ford 3000

jdcamper

New User
I am in the process of changing the seals in the rear axles of my ford 3000 due to oil getting on brake shoes. Have found this is a difficult task without the special Nuday tools. So far I have not found a New Holland Dealer who is jumping to help me with this job. In reviewing some of the archived items on this forum I found some folks have fabricated tools to do the task; Unfortunately the details are no longer retrievable.If Al in Virginia is still on this forum or anyone else who can assist in this issue, I would certainly request your help in suggesting ways to fabricate the tools to disassemble the axles in order to replace the seals.
 
The most important "special tool" you'll need is the big socket for the retaining nut. Use a calipers to find out the size, and then buy an appropriate size Chinese made 3/4" drive impact socket. Take it to a machine shop and have them bore the square drive out on a lathe so the socket will fit over the axle shaft. Then weld a 3 foot long bar onto the socket to serve as a handle.

I've seen other people break the nut loose with a big chisel, and then wrench it off with a big pliers after it's busted loose. Makes it kinda hard to torque it back down though.

Once the nut is off, the hub and bearing can be removed rather easily with an appropriate size press and bearing spreader. A suitable piece of pipe can be used to put it back on.
 
Thanks Bern; I have a 23/4 in socket ordered. Will need to adapt as you say. There is supposed to be a photo on this forum of a bearing retainer puller consisting in part by fabricating three long threaded rods; but I cannot retrieve due to the age of the post. It was back in 2004 by "al in Virginia". I was hoping he would see this post and possibly renew the photo. I understand the outer seal can be replaced without removing the the bearing cup. Any idea how much force required to remove the axle from the bearing and retainer assy. Your idea on the impact socket does sound better.
 
Thanks a bunch Mike; I can certainly use some assist. I understand the 2000 with round housing has the collars. I think all the 3000's have the nut. I have been researching this issue for a couple days trying to decide if I want to tackle or not. Your help will be appreciated.
 
I don't have a picture of the puller usually used. To buy it outright would be big dollars, assuming you could even buy it. To make one would cost a lot of money as well. If you have a friend with a big press and bearing splitter, that would work also. Once the nut #18 is removed, it doesn't take a huge amount of force to remove the bearing # 16.

Seal #14 is what you're after. Once the hub # 12 is off of the axle, you can remove the seal without disturbing the outer bearing cup # 13.
a197299.jpg
 
I took my outer axle support and bearings to a shop to have the same problem fixed on my 3600. If the nut holding the bearings into the outer housing is tight and there is no play in the bearings, don't bother disassembling it. The source of the oil getting on your brakes is the seal #19 in the picture. Easy to replace with only a seal puller from the parts store. That outer housing has bearing grease and it doesn't normally leak.
 
You are correct about seal #19 - it keeps the oil from getting to the bearing in the first place, as the bearing is lubed by grease on initial assembly. However, if lube is getting on the brakes, then there must be an outer seal failure, meaning that eventually dirt will pass into the bearing. Conclusion: The outer seal should be replaced anyway.

I also have an issue with your assessment procedure for the condition of the bearing. When you remove the axle assembly from the tractor, the hub will always be somewhat loose, even with a new bearing. It's not until the axle assembly is installed and butting up against the axle on the other side that the end play will go away, properly shimmed of course. Stated another way, it's nearly impossible to determine the true condition of the bearing without pulling it out and disassembling it.
 
As an alternative idea... I've used the thin wall truck axle sockets that are open ended... I just cut the drive bar out of the socket and welded it to a 3' piece of channel, then added another old socket to it at an appropriate calculable distance to put a torque wrench on it...
I don't remember the cost but it's something readily available around here without ordering the socket and there's no machining involved.

Rod
 
I sent you a message last night, check your email. My 2000 has square housings so I was expecting a nut. I have the prints in a CAD file. I have to convert them to pdf. Send me your email address, I have a few questions.
 
(quoted from post at 19:13:52 07/31/15) You are correct about seal #19 - it keeps the oil from getting to the bearing in the first place, as the bearing is lubed by grease on initial assembly. However, if lube is getting on the brakes, then there must be an outer seal failure, meaning that eventually dirt will pass into the bearing. Conclusion: The outer seal should be replaced anyway.

I also have an issue with your assessment procedure for the condition of the bearing. When you remove the axle assembly from the tractor, the hub will always be somewhat loose, even with a new bearing. It's not until the axle assembly is installed and butting up against the axle on the other side that the end play will go away, properly shimmed of course. Stated another way, it's nearly impossible to determine the true condition of the bearing without pulling it out and disassembling it.

Do you think for one second folks are gonna believe that... There is not one silver built in your replay its all work, work folks that dabble don't wanna do...

After 40 years are so its time to go after it all unless you can live off warranty work...

BTW I have a cad drawing for the plates to make (I have'em made) a fixture to press the hub off the axle if the centers of the bearing hub are like a 9 stud 600... I have never done a 3000 seal job for the record but if I did I would go for the kill...

Sooner are later someone is gonna come out with a Sure Seal patch and folks will live and die by it like they do on the 9/2N's...
They will fight you over it because they don't have the ability to fix it correctly...
 


No Bern; The post was for Mike. who requested my email so he could send pints of his tool for disassembling the rear axle of 3000.
 


No Bern; The post was for Mike. who requested my email so he could send pints of his tool for disassembling the rear axle of 3000.
 
(quoted from post at 19:55:27 08/01/15) Your reply made no sense. I hope those comments weren't directed at me. If they were, please translate.

Good information most of the time gets pushed to the side
Try as we may to do a repair the correct way someone will figger out how to short cut it with a haft arse a tempt at a repair. :twisted: It will become the Holy Grail its all down hill from there.
I was just joking with you as we both know to go for the kill and get the outer seal, and inspect the bearing its leaking now and will continue to leak no mater what patch job folks come up with.
 
Agree Hobo, way I look at it is, if grease or oil is on the brake shoes, it has to get by the outer seal; and if oil is getting by who knows how much grease is let in the bearing.
 
(quoted from post at 01:57:20 08/02/15) Agree Hobo, way I look at it is, if grease or oil is on the brake shoes, it has to get by the outer seal; and if oil is getting by who knows how much grease is let in the bearing.

It nice to help someone that is not looking to hack it up... We all learn for your repair...
I made a puller for a 9/2N while at it made the plate to bolt to the hub for a hundred series but never fab it up...

http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=571655&highlight=puller
 
I lowered my fluid about an inch below the hole and stopped mine from leaking as I didn't want to tackle the job. So far, so good.
 
(quoted from post at 07:21:31 08/02/15) I lowered my fluid about an inch below the hole and stopped mine from leaking as I didn't want to tackle the job. So far, so good.
hanks Texk
 

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