1964 Ford 2000

I recently bought a 2000 4cyl gas. I now have the owners and shop manuals. The trans was probably 4-5 quarts over filled. It was definitely hydraulic oil and not gear oil. The problem I'm having is the trans won't slow down enough to shift. I'm attributing that to the hydraulic oil as with the PTO engaged in stops enough to shift. Pilot bearing may be a sticking a little also.

From reading the archives I suspect that the hydraulics must be leaking into the trans. I've drained the trans to the correct level. I haven't run it enough to see if I'm losing hyd fluid and gaining in the trans. The hydraulic and rear end fluids where/are at correct levels when I bought it. Rear end appears to have hydraulic fluid in it also.

Here's the question. If I put gear oil in the trans can it end up in the hydraulics?

That's sure easier to try than splitting the tractor to replace pilot bearing.

What transmission, 4 or 5 speed ? Yes, the shaft seal can leak, trans can leak into the hydraulic compartment, so the recommendation if it does, is to use hydraulic fluid in the trans., hydraulic compartment and the differential. Seems to be common with these, fluid spec by ford or new holland is 134 D or something like that, whatever the current one is, you may have some room as to what you use for hydraulic fluid, but I do know inexpensive fluid is not so good in cold weather.

Maybe you have a 5 speed with a 2 stage clutch, I know with a single if the pto is engaged, you won't be able to shift until the pto stops, but either has nothing to do with hydraulic fluid in the trans. I'd be inspecting the clutch, check adjustment etc. Then see whats what.

It has the 4 speed transmission. Tran's driven PTO. Clutch is supposedly new and is adjusted correctly.

I have a 53 Farmall SH that was shifting perfectly with water logged gear oil. It has a new clutch and pilot bearing was replaced. I drained it and put UTF back in because it's what I had and is cheaper. The lighter oil with less drag allowed the tran's to spin dramatically longer before stopping to be able to get it in gear.

I'm thinking this 2000 has the same issue.

If I put gear oil in the tran's and it ends up in the hydraulics what's the repercussions of that?

While heavy oil in the hydraulics is not good, a little leakage at the output or PTO shaft seal shouldn't be terrible . . . unless it leaks a gallon a day.

I don't think its viscous enough to perform as needed in the hydraulis, like Larry said, some leakage should not cause any serious problems as it won't be straight 90 wt.

To me, the drag does not make sense, clutch disengages, no power to the input shaft, it should not run on. I ran hydraulic fluid in my 850's trans for 10 years, as that's what was in it, when I changed all the fluids, I went back to 90wt in the trans, which is a little stiff in the extreme cold, below 20 deg F. Never had any trouble shifting or having the trans run on because of less drag with hydraulic fluid. Only time it does that is with the rotary mower on, same trans driven pto, and even then, firm on the break pedal, lower the mower let the stump pan touch ground, just a slight delay in stopping, so little, I never saw the need for an overunning clutch either, for me at least its no issue, well I have a loader too, so I can drop that down as well, but have never needed to. Until the works stop, you can disengage the pto, not re-engage it nor the trans until it all stops if you take that out of gear too. That's the only scenario where I have experienced this, starting and stopping when working in tight places with the 850, real pain at times but you work with what you have.

(quoted from post at 08:54:23 07/31/15) It has the 4 speed transmission. Tran's driven PTO. Clutch is supposedly new and is adjusted correctly.

I have a 53 Farmall SH that was shifting perfectly with water logged gear oil. It has a new clutch and pilot bearing was replaced. I drained it and put UTF back in because it's what I had and is cheaper. The lighter oil with less drag allowed the tran's to spin dramatically longer before stopping to be able to get it in gear.

I'm thinking this 2000 has the same issue.

If I put gear oil in the tran's and it ends up in the hydraulics what's the repercussions of that?

Click to expand...

I'm not sure I follow your logic. The gears in the trans are always attached to the rear wheels through the rear axle unless you have shifted to neutral, so if the clutch is adjusted properly and you push the clutch in and put on the brakes so that the tractor comes to a stop before you shift it out of gear into neutral, the gears inside the transmission should also come to a stop, and then you shift into neutral and then into whatever other gear that you want. That transmission was not designed to be shifted on the fly, only when the tractor is at a complete stop.

Most folks that have the various 1955-1964 Ford tractor models with manual transmissions use UTF in all 3 sumps and do not have the problem that you describe.

In all likely hood I have a pilot bearing hanging a
little. It's very subtle. From nuetral it will spin the
trans and I have to grind it into gear. If the PTO is
left engaged it won't spin up in neutral.

I'm thinking gear oil may create just enough drag to
stop it from spinning up.

I'll split to tractor as a last resort.

Probably leaking oil through the input shaft seal onto the clutch disc causing extra drag.

Dean,
It's always hard to communicate what we mean over the internet.
I see what you are trying to do.
Yes, 80w90 will be fine in all 3 compartments.
not ideal for the hydraulic chamber, but it will work.
Don't go heavier than 80w-90 and when the weather turns colder,
swap it out for UTF in the hydraulic chamber.
Couple gallons for that chamber twice a year is not a big expense,
and it will always be...clean.

I also agree on the old tractor transmissions...hate that UTF in em. Spin down takes forever.
I honestly wish I could find the exact formula of ancient spec gear oil and dirt that makes that black sulfur smelling mud we drain out of tractor trans/rears when we buy them.
shifts nice, no leaks, and quiet gears.
cleaning it out and replacing it with even 85w-140.....leaks, gears noise, long spin down times.

I have a '63 with the same problem. Soundguy set me straight several years ago. The hyd pump tubes run through the bottom of the tranny case. They develop pin holes over the years. Pin holes let high pressure hyd. fluid into the tranny sump. The tranny becomes over full. I bought this tractor at least 15 years ago and have had this problem the whole time. I merely drain the tranny down to the full screw midway up on the right side periodically and check the dip stick. I use 134 and apparently my tranny is running just fine with 134 because by now all the GL1 90 wt is long gone. Only problem with it is if you have an input shaft seal leaking on the tranny you MIGHT get some fluid on the clutch. But if you keep tabs on it, no reason for that either.

HTH,
Mark