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6600 running warm

P

Pivo and Kolache

New User
Morning all,

My 6600 runs with the needle just a hair under the
red when doing pto work (ususally pulling hay
cutter) the radiator has been rodded and I replaced
the t stat and replaced coolant. If I shoot it with
infrared thermometer t stay housing will be around
177 degrees, the water pump around 180ish and
the radiator also around 170. Now with it being
around 102 degrees outside I don't see this as that
warm. In my mind (correct me if I'm wrong) but 210
is stop what your doing before you ruin this motor
hot? Would these temps concern yall? Have
considered removing t stat all togther but I really
don't care for that idea...
 
If your tractor has bi-metal gauges (pre June 1979 build date), suspect a stuck voltage regulator behind the dash causing an errant reading. This will also cause the fuel gauge to read high as well.

As for 210 being "stop what you're doing", it's actually quite a bit higher than that. Those Fords can go 230-240 without issues. You can thank the parent bore design for that.
 
Thanks for the advice. How does one decifer the sn to determine the year? Also assuming I have this style of gauge what is the test procedure for the v reg? Is it a part of the cluster and is it avaliable separately or will the whole cluster have to be replaced? I'd like to repair this one if possible as I susspect its original and has a working hour meter

Thanks you for your time and advice,

P and K
 
(quoted from post at 09:37:38 07/29/15) How does one decifer the sn to determine the year?
Click to expand...

Starting serial numbers for the years that the 6600 was made (Note: these are "C" prefix serial numbers and are only accurate for tractors with that prefix. Tractors with "A" or "B" serial number prefixes are not well documented):

1975: C450700
1976: C490300
1977: C527300
1978: C560500
1979: C595800
1980: C635700
1981: C660700
 
The voltage regulator is screwed to the back of the instrument cluster. It has two terminals, and looks like a circuit breaker. I believe one terminal is labeled "B", and the other is "I".

One terminal is power in from the key switch, and the other terminal branches off to feed the two gauges. Take a 12V test light and probe the terminal going to the gauges (should be the "I" terminal). Your test light should be flashing on and off. If it does not, wait 60 seconds. If it remains on solid, and does not flash on and off like a blinker, there's your problem.
 
(quoted from post at 09:45:33 07/30/15) The voltage regulator is screwed to the back of the instrument cluster. It has two terminals, and looks like a circuit breaker. I believe one terminal is labeled "B", and the other is "I".

One terminal is power in from the key switch, and the other terminal branches off to feed the two gauges. Take a 12V test light and probe the terminal going to the gauges (should be the "I" terminal). Your test light should be flashing on and off. If it does not, wait 60 seconds. If it remains on solid, and does not flash on and off like a blinker, there's your problem.
Click to expand...

I believe it's actually called a voltage stabilizer, but in truth it does anything but stabilize the voltage. It turns on and off repeatedly so that the average output is around 5 to 6 volts, but at any single instant it could be zero or 12 volts. Those gauges are very slow reacting, and so the "average" voltage is what they end up working off of.
 
Thanks fellas, you have given me something to
check out and according to sn my 6600 is a 76.
Once I get equipment moved around from field to
field this evening I'm going to pull the dash out and
give it a look
 
What about the temp on the head near where the sender for the temp gauge is at? Shoot that with the infrared thermometer. If it's in the 180 to 200 range most likely something with the gauge or sender. That's where I would start looking.

Rick
 
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