1958 ford 601 wont start

baker3 · Jul 16, 2015

I have a 601 that has been overhauled timing is set at 25 deg. before tdc
new carb. points, plugs,
getting good spark and fuel just rebuilt bout 2 months ago and it started an ran good, til I went up a hill and came back down it backfired at bottom and shut off. found the starter locked up and kicked sideways tore all teeth off starter and a few from flywheel, put new starter and flywheel ring, also headgasket was leaking because the part supplier gave the wrong one ordered right one and put everything back together

now tractor wont start acts like it wants to adjusted timing doesn't help either way I turn it

da.bees · Jul 16, 2015

Could be more than a dozen reasons. Just start with the basics,fuel,fire and compression. If all that is good recheck valve clearances and if it has been pulled sice tractor ran, make certain distrubitor wasn't stabbed tds on exhust stroke.

Larry NCKS · Jul 16, 2015

(quoted from post at 21:16:57 07/16/15) I adjusted timing doesn't help either way I turn it

Timing is way off for one thing! Anyhow, static timing on an early 4 cylinder gasoline (172 cu. in.)4000 is 4 degrees BTDC. Am assuming the 134 would be the same. 25 degrees is diesel timing.

NoNewParts · Jul 17, 2015

agree with both answers.
But, like Larry said, gotta get the static timing right before you push the start button.
I haven't got my book in front of me, but his spec will get it running.
Valve adjustment after a head gasket change of course, don't forget to check adjustment again after re-tightening head bolts.

I got a great deal on my 6v 650 because it wouldn't start worth a hooey, if at all.
Dealership?!? they changed points and all that routine..said it must be the carb.
I bought it non-running, got it home, static timed it, hit the button and it started instantly. good tractor. (It was far, far too advanced initial, and at 6v crank speed...no way)

baker3 · Jul 17, 2015

ok thanks did a compression test #1=88lbs #2=78lbs #3=70 #4=75 lbs
was thinking I have a few valves not seating right the head was sent off to be cooked and checked came back and said everything was good.

what should be the compression be the book I have dosent have it in it ?
I have great fuel supply and spark the book keeps says that timing for non-diesel models 1955-1957 is 26 deg and 1958-later is 24 deg

the valve clearance is set at 0.015 both intake and exhaust per book I have is this right ?

I will check with the 4 deg. BTDC
forgot to mention in first post this tractor was converted to 12v

Machnegative · Jul 17, 2015

Not sure about the 01 series, but 00 series book has 8deg for the 134 engine and 5 deg for the 172. When I set mine on my 56 850 it was set at about 26 deg btdc. After setting to a little over 6 (high alt) it runs better and will idle down to where it should.

Jeff

JMOR · Jul 17, 2015

(quoted from post at 09:25:05 07/17/15) Not sure about the 01 series, but 00 series book has 8deg for the 134 engine and 5 deg for the 172. When I set mine on my 56 850 it was set at about 26 deg btdc. After setting to a little over 6 (high alt) it runs better and will idle down to where it should.

Jeff

verybody is right (or nearly), just not communicating clearly. The small numbers such as 4 or 6 degrees will be the static advance at zero rpm, whereas the 24, 25, 26 degrees will be the total advance at high rpm, (typically, 4 static plus 20 centrifugal/mechanical =24 total).

baker3 · Jul 18, 2015

Anyone know what the compression should be??? intake n exhaust valves are set at 0.015

souNdguy · Jul 18, 2015

Do a dry then wet comp test.

Dry test that gets better wet is rings, dry that does not get better wet, valves

baker3 · Jul 21, 2015

I had a chance to work on this evening to work on the timing
have the flywheel ring on 4 degree mark.
both dots lined up on front
rotor button pointing to #1
will try to post pictures to give a better description
just wanted to check with everyone to make sure this is right before I hit the starter!!
Thanks for all the help

nlastovi · Jul 21, 2015

(quoted from post at 05:51:50 07/17/15) ok thanks did a compression test #1=88lbs #2=78lbs #3=70 #4=75 lbs
what should be the compression be the book I have dosent have it in it ?

About 120 PSI would be a good compression result with a 12V system on a fresh engine. It ought to run OK with 90. But 70 to me seems rather limp wristed. A pressure variation from highest to lowest of around 10% is probably common for a worn/used engine. You can do a dry and then a "wet" test indicate if it is likely valves or rings more worn - a could squirts of oil in the cylinder often increases compression notably if rings or cylinder walls need attention.

RobCons · Jul 22, 2015

Looks like you may be 180 degrees off. On my 601 the #1 spark plug wire is opposite side of distributor from yours.

1958 ford 601 wont start

baker3

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da.bees

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Larry NCKS

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NoNewParts

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baker3

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Machnegative

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JMOR

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baker3

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