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Golden Jubilee carburetor

J

Jubileewoes

New User
I recently purchased a 1953 Golden Jubilee. It has a contaminated fuel system. Upon rebuilding the carburetor, I discovered that it had a M-S TSX 33 carb on it. Will that work on this tractor? From what I've seen it is for an N Series tractor. Thanks in advance.
 
Welcome to the forums!
Are you sure on the TSX-33 model?
The linkages on that model connected to the opposite side as
those on a Jubilee carb. Not sure how it would even hook up.

Here' a Jubilee carb I rebuilt:

mvphoto24532.jpg


And a TSX-33 I did. No linkage on this side:

mvphoto24533.jpg
 
Mine's got the hook ups on the correct side so I guess it's not a 33. It had no tag so I was going by a 33 in the bowl casting. I bought a kit for a 428 but the venturi tube in it was different. Everything else seemed to match up. The only thing is the power adjusting needle never seated even with the spring totally collapsed or not used at all. I found a cut section diagram of the 428 carb and it showed what looked like a bushing or jet for it to seat into that mine doesn't have. The engine runs good until the governor calls for power. The engine stumbles and finally picks up. Also it seems to run on the rich side.
 
It would make sense for it to stumble and then
pick up if it were running rich as you suspect.
Possibly with a puff of black smoke at the same time.

There were different models with the linkage on that side.
Some had the fuel inlet on the side, some on the rear, some
had them in both places.

Do you have the whole part number stamped into the "lungs"
on the underside of the top half? I might be able to narrow
that number to a model for you.

In any event, the main needle should bottom. Lightly.
From memory, the 428 had a brass seat built in.
Not replaceable, but it could be damaged or removed.
I would think the needle would still bottom, but not seal.
That seat was very thin, it didn't add any height to speak of.
 
Thanks, all good stuff to know. I'll get the number if I can this weekend so you can check for a model. I do believe that seat is gone. If so, is the carb toast?
 
"I do believe that seat is gone. If so, is the carb toast?"

I don't think so, I think it could be fixed.
Main point would be to get that needle to bottom.
If it is a 428 they didn't have a main jet so the needle
did all the adjusting. (don't tell JMOR I said that! LOL)

Measure the length of your main needle from the tip to the
bottom of the threads. I'll see if I have one that is any longer.
If I do it would be used, but you can have it. I have a bucket full.
 
"Great looking carb, Royse!"

Thanks Kevin, if you mean that red one, it's on "Crispy".

Not to hijack the thread, but here's a quick before and after pic.
Crispy belonged to a friend of mine and caught fire in the woods.
I spent 4 months or so putting it back together.

mvphoto24540.jpg


mvphoto24541.jpg


mvphoto24542.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 21:41:34 07/17/15) "I do believe that seat is gone. If so, is the carb toast?"

I don't think so, I think it could be fixed.
Main point would be to get that needle to bottom.
If it is a 428 they didn't have a main jet so the needle
did all the adjusting. (don't tell JMOR I said that! LOL)

Measure the length of your main needle from the tip to the
bottom of the threads. I'll see if I have one that is any longer.
If I do it would be used, but you can have it. I have a bucket full.
Click to expand...
hy did you say that? Don't recall ever thinking that they had a main jet.?
 
(quoted from post at 21:41:34 07/17/15) "I do believe that seat is gone. If so, is the carb toast?"

I don't think so, I think it could be fixed.
Main point would be to get that needle to bottom.
If it is a 428 they didn't have a main jet so the needle
did all the adjusting. (don't tell JMOR I said that! LOL)

Measure the length of your main needle from the tip to the
bottom of the threads. I'll see if I have one that is any longer.
If I do it would be used, but you can have it. I have a bucket full.
Click to expand...
hy did you say that? Don't recall ever thinking that they had a main jet.?
 
(quoted from post at 22:35:44 07/17/15)
(quoted from post at 21:41:34 07/17/15) "I do believe that seat is gone. If so, is the carb toast?"

I don't think so, I think it could be fixed.
Main point would be to get that needle to bottom.
If it is a 428 they didn't have a main jet so the needle
did all the adjusting. (don't tell JMOR I said that! LOL)

Measure the length of your main needle from the tip to the
bottom of the threads. I'll see if I have one that is any longer.
If I do it would be used, but you can have it. I have a bucket full.
Click to expand...
hy did you say that? Don't recall ever thinking that they had a main jet.?
Click to expand...
The comment didn't have to do directly with the 428.
We have discussed the possibility of running a TSX-33/241 without
a main jet in it at all and adjusting it using only the main needle.
As I recall we both thought it possible, but hadn't tested it.
I was going to test that to prove it, but have not done it yet.
The fact that the 428 didn't have one reminded me of that discussion.
There was certainly no malice intended, just ribbing because
I knew you'd see it and wouldn't be shy to call me out on it! :)
 
(quoted from post at 22:45:57 07/17/15)
(quoted from post at 22:35:44 07/17/15)
(quoted from post at 21:41:34 07/17/15) "I do believe that seat is gone. If so, is the carb toast?"

I don't think so, I think it could be fixed.
Main point would be to get that needle to bottom.
If it is a 428 they didn't have a main jet so the needle
did all the adjusting. (don't tell JMOR I said that! LOL)

Measure the length of your main needle from the tip to the
bottom of the threads. I'll see if I have one that is any longer.
If I do it would be used, but you can have it. I have a bucket full.
Click to expand...
hy did you say that? Don't recall ever thinking that they had a main jet.?
Click to expand...
o particular bother, just wondered what behind it. Not as energetic as I once was or I would pull one off and try it without the main jet. Pretty sure it would work, so not especially motivated.
The comment didn't have to do directly with the 428.
We have discussed the possibility of running a TSX-33/241 without
a main jet in it at all and adjusting it using only the main needle.
As I recall we both thought it possible, but hadn't tested it.
I was going to test that to prove it, but have not done it yet.
The fact that the 428 didn't have one reminded me of that discussion.
There was certainly no malice intended, just ribbing because
I knew you'd see it and wouldn't be shy to call me out on it! :)
Click to expand...
 
"Pretty sure it would work, so not especially motivated."

I guess I'm with you there. I have several on the bench though,
so it would be easy enough for me to prove it.
I change them out regularly, I just need to remember to do it.
 
OK, I have the carb off. Underneath the top portion stamped inside one of the lungs is the number 227-120. Also the kit I purchased had a main nozzle with the threads at the top. My carb has two rows of threads at the bottom. Also the main nozzle in the kit has more holes through the sides than the one in my carb. I don't know if that matters but I would think it would. The bottom half of the carb body isn't threaded at the top for the type nozzle in the kit. My Power adjusting needle measures 2 1/16" from the bottom of the threads to the point.
Jim
 
I did a quick scan through my docs and didn't find that number
yet. Marvel Schebler docs list 227-1293 as the part number
for the TSX-428 top half.

I think the nozzle in the picture below is what yours looks like?
The needle in the middle of the picture is 1/16 of an inch longer
than the lower one, not much difference.
Besides, the hole in the top half goes all the way through.
The needle should thread all the way through it while you have
the carb apart. Maybe the threads just need to be cleaned out, or
maybe your needle isn't threaded far enough to go all the way in?

mvphoto24625.jpg
 
Thanks Royse. The main nozzle you have pictured is correct. Also I checked the threads for the power adjusting needle and they did need cleaning. I have that done. I also noted a little contamination in the fuel. I am in the process of removing the fuel tank again to clean. Any tricks on getting old dried fuel completely out? The tank doesn't seem to be rusted.
 
For the carb, a good soak in a can of liquid carb cleaner helps.
That doesn't work so well for the tank though! :)

Look what I found in my box of parts.
This came off a TSX-241B for an 8N, but is not correct by the
book for that carb either. The fuel inlet and linkage would be
on the wrong side for a Jube. Interesting to say the least!

mvphoto24626.jpg


mvphoto24627.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 13:48:08 07/19/15) For the carb, a good soak in a can of liquid carb cleaner helps.
That doesn't work so well for the tank though! :)

Look what I found in my box of parts.
This came off a TSX-241B for an 8N, but is not correct by the
book for that carb either. The fuel inlet and linkage would be
on the wrong side for a Jube. Interesting to say the least!

mvphoto24626.jpg


mvphoto24627.jpg
Click to expand...

Sorry to reply so late. I've been working on the tank. Ive gotten it pretty descent. Washed it out with Tide and rinsed with a pressure washer and then just a garden hose. I've blown it dry and set it aside. Got to find something for a final rinse. Don't they make a coating you can pour inside the tank to seal it? That pic is exactly like mine. I'll send pics tomorrow afternoon. Thanks again for all your help.
Jim
 
"Don't they make a coating you can pour inside the tank to seal it?"

Yes they do. Several actually. POR-15 seems to be a favorite.
If used exactly as the directions say, it's great stuff.
Problem is the price.
You can buy an aftermarket tank for about the same money.
Of course, it's an aftermarket tank, not original.

For a final rinse, I would use lacquer thinner.
It cleans well, evaporates quickly and leaves very little residue.
Others may disagree, we all have our own ways of doing things.
Lacquer thinner is highly flammable though, so use caution.

Looking forward to the pictures!
 
Here's the pictures of the partially disassembled carb. You can see the 227-120 in the lung of the upper portion. On the bottom of the lower portion you can see10A on the left and 355 on the right. I did a little research on the tank sealer and it is pricey. I only have one pin hole after washing so I'll have to do something. Hope these pictures help.
Jim
a196554.jpg

a196555.jpg

a196556.jpg

a196557.jpg

a196558.jpg
 
Jim, notice that in your second picture the fuel inlet elbow
and idle air adjusting screw are visible with the float mount
to the left? In my second picture the holes for both are visible
with the float mount toward the right. Mirror opposites.
That would make sense for the difference between NAA and 8N.
Not sure why they have the same part number though.
More research required I guess. Maybe the tops are off one
of the M/S TSXU universal models.

The plug was most likely added to replace the screen because
it leaked. Bad idea in my opinion. It is supposed to leak there
if the carb floods. That's why it had the strainer to begin with.
If it were flooding and leaking, something else was wrong. An
open hole would work better, but it would suck dirt in if left open.

Looks like the choke rod stop peg has been replaced with a
machine screw too but unless they damaged it, that probably
won't hurt a thing.

Anyway, where to go from here? I have the main nozzle you
need I think. The needle too if needed. I would gladly give
them to you if they'll help. Were your original ones damaged?
If not, they might work just fine also after a good cleaning.

Here's a picture of the bottom of the same red one I posted.
Looks to be the same number as your bowl section.

mvphoto24725.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 20:31:14 07/20/15) Jim, notice that in your second picture the fuel inlet elbow
and idle air adjusting screw are visible with the float mount
to the left? In my second picture the holes for both are visible
with the float mount toward the right. Mirror opposites.
That would make sense for the difference between NAA and 8N.
Not sure why they have the same part number though.
More research required I guess. Maybe the tops are off one
of the M/S TSXU universal models.

The plug was most likely added to replace the screen because
it leaked. Bad idea in my opinion. It is supposed to leak there
if the carb floods. That's why it had the strainer to begin with.
If it were flooding and leaking, something else was wrong. An
open hole would work better, but it would suck dirt in if left open.

Looks like the choke rod stop peg has been replaced with a
machine screw too but unless they damaged it, that probably
won't hurt a thing.

Anyway, where to go from here? I have the main nozzle you
need I think. The needle too if needed. I would gladly give
them to you if they'll help. Were your original ones damaged?
If not, they might work just fine also after a good cleaning.

Here's a picture of the bottom of the same red one I posted.
Looks to be the same number as your bowl section.

mvphoto24725.jpg
Click to expand...

I'm with you on the strainer. It was to show you that you had either flooded it with the choke or your needle, seat or float wasn't working. Can you replace that strainer? I'm thinking with that hole plugged, it could cause a rich idle condition. That's what I have. Also I think my nozzle and adjusting needle are OK. The nozzle cleaned up pretty well and I have a new needle that is identical to the old one. I fashioned a seat for the power adjusting needle out of an old jet and filed it until it fit snugly in the bottom of the bowl. I put it on the tractor and had to drill it to a larger size a couple of times to get the engine to pick up when the governor rod was pulled. This was at no load however. Should I remove that makeshift seat since I have gotten the threads cleaned up for the adjusting needle?
Jim
 
"Can you replace that strainer?"

Yes. There is even a screw in one that would probably fit
the threads they put in for the pipe plug.
It's been posted on here several times, I'll see if I can find it.

If the needle will seat without the added part then I would
remove it. No need to take the chance of it working up the
needle and closing off fuel flow in the future.
At the very least I would want it staked in or something.
 
(quoted from post at 16:08:34 07/21/15) "Can you replace that strainer?"

Yes. There is even a screw in one that would probably fit
the threads they put in for the pipe plug.
It's been posted on here several times, I'll see if I can find it.

If the needle will seat without the added part then I would
remove it. No need to take the chance of it working up the
needle and closing off fuel flow in the future.
At the very least I would want it staked in or something.
Click to expand...

Sound advice. I'll remove it and see if the needle seats.
 
I found the sintered filter on Ebay that screws in. I tried the power adjusting needle without the makeshift bushing and it didn't seat. Will the engine flood without the seat?
Jim
 
It has to be open some in order to run, so it will depend on
how close you have it. If it is close to seating it may work.
 
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