4630 follow up

Took delivery last week, received an owners manual and have gone over it and the tractor which is needing some small repairs, but seems to run well otherwise.

Few questions or concerns, maybe I'll post a little every so often, after going over the parts diagrams. Will be on the hunt for the service manuals, seems there's several volumes of those for this one of the '97 vintage.

Brake rod/actuator leaking on both sides, one more than the other. I read about the repair on an old post here, seems straight forward unless they are difficult to replace and I have missed something. I'm not sure if I saw the correct diagram for the seal/part. It was under the rear axle section, and was like $12, hopefully that is the correct part, parts guy at this dealer should be able to clarify anyway.

I could not find the tachometer cable end on the engine, but saw the parts listed. Where is it connected to on the engine, more so, is it difficult to change one of these out, tach on this one, the needle moves all over, its definitely not working.

3.3/192 turbo diesel. I hear what appears to be a valve tick noise at idle, it stands out a bit, wondering if there is an adjustment, normal or what for 1200 hrs?

It has an under-slung exhaust, and for now its fine, but I would like a vertical back on it, seems I'll need 2 pieces, the one just off the manifold, then the muffler itself ? Might need to make something custom, stack might be a tad bit tall to get into the garage, any suggestions, shorter muffler or removable top end with a rain cap or 45 on top etc.?

I'm going to re-tube the rear tires immediately/asap and hope the couple of heavier rust areas are not too thin, upon close inspection, seems I should be able to clean up 90% of both rims. CACL is going, will re-ballast with something else.

3 pt and drawbar- chasing down some hardware, unreal as the first owner of this one certainly was careless, one of the lift arm ends needs the correct hardware, he's got a bolt in there instead of the lever or what the heck was done on that side. Pins are missing for the drawbar, one wrong one on the rops and the wire rope lanyard buggered up, all seemingly easy though. The oem drawbar did not appear to have been used, the first few inches of the hitch pin end of it was in the dirt by the looks of it. It was probably leaning up against a wall in a dirt floor shed, will clean up nicely, and at least I have that and the oem top link! I do like the options for switching to cat 2 lift arm balls and top link end.

Electrical: rear work light does not work, one fender light busted off, and some loose wiring here and there but not under the hood. The dealer replaced the key switch, said there was a rodent nest in there or something. Person who called me from the dealer said a "rats nest" I assumed mice, and not a description of wiring they found LOL ! So I suppose, I had better take a look, but the biggest concern is, fire hazards being parked in my garage, lighting circuits, need to iron that out, some loose, disconnected or broken wiring I have seen out further along the fenders, something not plugged in under the hood etc. I've got a battery kill switch somewhere, plan to put that on. A one line diagram out of a service manual sure would be handy about now LOL !

One last one for this round. This one has the 8x8 (shuttle) and the book states its independent pto. This is a lot different than the 850, as well as the 3600 with 2 stage clutch. There is some description in the owners manual on engagement/feathering, will try that, as well as adjusting the stop. I assume, but am not sure, the pto is engaged without disengaging the clutch, using care to do so per the manual. With the pto at 540 rpm, say with a rotary mower on, is it fair to say you can forward and reverse the shuttle in the gear you are working in with no issues ? Manual does not say anything on that. In that situation, can you maintain full engine speed, or just reduce throttle to shift smoothly then throttle up again, for say getting in and out of places where you may need to back in to cut, then pull forward, turn, and then move over to get the next section, of underbrush under the old hedge rows. Obviously when engaging the independent pto, you'll reduce the engine speed so its not a sudden shock load, just wondering about working in tight areas and shifting with the mower running is all.

That's it for this round, much appreciated and hopefully the post is of help to others with one of these. Seems like when all is done, it will be a good one, I took it around the property, fits in the woods nicely, and is good on the hills too!

Brake boots are not a big deal. You can drain the oil down some if it's not already leaked out or else run the tractor up on a block on that side... then take the clevises off. Once that's done just take a sharp cold chisel and get behind the steel backer of the boot and chisel it out of the housing. Get the new boot and look at it so you know what I mean... Installing a new boot requires a drift of some sort that will fit over the brake rod and contact the steel ring of the boot. A piece of pipe... or I think someone mentioned that the old Deere 2 lung wrist pins work well. Seat the boot in place. I should mention that I usually remove the spring from the boot before I slide it up the brake rod... then reinstall it after I've got the boot over the land on the rod...

Tach.. at least on the older ones they have a drive under the engine oil filter. They can break the cable in that angle drive or they can break the cable from there to the cluster. If that cable is not routed correctly (NO SHARP BENDS) then it will thread and break. Frequently!! Sounds to me like the angle drive cable is trying to break on you.

Valves... may need to be run. Go-nogo on the intake is .014-.016" and .017-.019" on the exhaust. I usually set them so they'll take a .015 but not an .016" etc. Watch out for worn/rounded/indented rockers too.... I've got one I set with a dial indicator... At 1200 hours the valves should be run.

Exhaust... I usually prefer a taller stack on those 3 holers because they make LOT of noise. Getting it up higher gets it away from you. Alternatively, behind you might be better? If you do change it you would probably just need an elbow off the turbo that is likely braced to somewhere around #1 exhaust port bolt... then the muffler and possibly cut a hole in the hood if it's not already there with a plastic blank.

Tires... I think your money would be better spent on good wheels and tubes and keep the leaks fixed rather than buying some expensive exotic potion that's not supposed to rot the wheels. CaCl doesn't rot the wheels when it stays inside the tubes.
We've got some here that are 40 years old and always been loaded and never a problem.

Lift arms... keep close custody of your balls. They fall out when not in use I usually keep them in the tool box. The drawbars on those things never wear much either. They're hard..

The fender lights... best I remember both are powered off of one feed tast comes down across the transmission. It also has a fuse in the panel IIRC.. Check and see if it has power at the foot board connections. usually they go bad first.. chase it from there depending on what you find.

The PTO is fully independent of the main clutch. You start or stop it any time you want by a flick of the lever. It's advisable to idle the engine before you start it tho... and move the lever gently. Otherwise it WILL start with a BANG.

As far as the shuttle is concerned... it shifts a lot better if you're moving. You could be rolling down the road at 35 km/h and shuttle directly into reverse. It will shift. Now whether or not you want to let the clutch out is another matter.... One thing I will tell you is MAKE SURE you fully clutch before you shift that thing. Trying to shift under any strain will result in broken syncro rings... and the syncros are only sold as a complete unit and they're worth about the price of 2 good working 850's.... never mind that half grand in gaskets and bearings and shims and 30-40 hours work to tear the damn thing apart and rebuild it. When one of those things breaks and it won't shift you'll probably review your insurance policy and aim a leak off line at the exhaust manifold..

Rod

Rod, most appreciated, your time to respond and the details provided. Thank you !

I assume by run, you mean to adjust to clearances stated and its done cold, just pull the valve cover, adjust/check with feeler gauge. It seems to have been forever since I've adjusted valves on an engine. I used to fool with beefed up small block chevy's quite a bit and remember doing those, roller rockers etc.

The wheels and tires on this one, hard to believe someone would ignore a leak on both, but I believe it sat, and as best I can tell at this point, the rims could clean up, one seems to be worse than the other and I'll deal with that one first, then the other, they will get drained, rims cleaned up, painted correctly, re-tubed as I don't trust whats in there, knowing the valve stem could let loose as I have experienced at least once with the 850 that has CACL loaded rears. Went to change the core or part of the 2 piece stem, sprung a gusher as it broke off easily, which could have just as well happened in the field. I've never had much trouble with them over the years, just this one, and it was defective when installed, tire guy mislead me, eventually it failed, I fixed it 7 or 8 years ago now.

Thats good to know about the shuttle and this transmission, sounds like its good policy to make sure the clutch kept adjusted correctly. It seems to shift just fine, along with the transmission, but I'll get the feel of it with a little seat time anyway. Never been the type to force or be rough on equipment anyway, sure sounds like high dollar and complicated repair if you abuse one of these.

The exhaust had a vertical one on it, looks like this guy was in the woods and lazy to clear away limbs. The engine cover has the hole in it, but he piped it down and under, bent the tin to fit ! I'd have found a used cover or made something, shelved the good one, its not too bad and I'll bet with a little work I can restore that piece and you would not know the difference. Ok for now as it allows me to park it in the garage.

So I've got some work to do, before I use it, hope to get started shortly on it, this one will be a pleasure to run when done.

Yes, valves are set cold. It can sometimes help to pull the injectors so you can drop a welding rod in there to find TDC. Sometimes I wing it if I'm in a hurry and watch the valve train movement but it's kinda hard to get the 3 cylinders exact without knowing where the piston is... Pulling the injectors is usually not hard IF you have a couple 18-24" rounded head 'injector' bars.

Rod

Thanks again !

From what I gather, the firing order is 1-2-3 on these, and you would start with #1 TDC, then the others in succession, with each piston at TDC when adjusting valve lash. Not familiar with that injector tool, nor injector removal, but I'd want to do it that way to know its correct. I'll probably leave this until last, the sound seems to be a typical valve tick, just at an idle once it warms up. This is one of those things that will bug me until its done. Hopefully I'll find a service manual with this section prior too, sounds simple enough.

Yes, the firing order is 1-2-3... I forget the correct name of the pry bars I'm talking about but they're readily available at NAPA in the Ultra-Pro line. They come as a set of 4 with a 6", 12" 18" and 24" or roughly those lengths. They've got a rounded head that works as a bait...
All we've ever called them is injector bars... lol but they're not a specific tool just for injectors by any means.

Rod