I need more help. I am trying to help my son. I posted early about installing a 1 wire alt on a Ford 1841 diesel. well I looked at the alt today and it is a Auto Zone Duralast # 7172M it is a Delco remy. It has 1 large terminal marked Batt and a red cover under which are 2 terminals 1 is F and the other is R. Maybe it is not a true 1 wire, Is there any way you can jumper either of those terminal to excite the alt? this is the same model alt that was on the tractor when he first got it. Maybe it is not reving up enough rpms to excite it. Probably in over my head any help is appreciated.
- Thread starter henryv11
- Start date
he reason the red cover is on there, is that you need not make connections there for a 1-wire alternator. There are many 1-wire VRs......some can be "excited" by applying battery power to "R", but with other 1-wire VRs, that will not excite them. Nobody knows what VR is in that one except who ever put it together. Give it a try. See if it works. If not it is under warranty, right?
Wow... I see i COMPLETELY wasted my time replying to your other post, since you obviously TOTALLY disreguarded it and asked the the question that I already took a LONNNG time to answer typing in on a phone!
I'll remember that the next time i see a question from you!
Your previous thread where i ALREADY told you how to wire it as a 3 wire
I'll remember that the next time i see a question from you!
Your previous thread where i ALREADY told you how to wire it as a 3 wire
rvirgil_KS
Well-known Member
Which alternator do you have? One on left requires external regulator (never a one wire) one on right may have had some early models with tabs labeled other than 1 and 2
I looked on AutoZone site, they do not show a 7172, however they show a 7127 that is a 10SI and a 7122 that is a 10DN. F and R terminals leave open the possibility that you actually have a 10DN that requires an external regulator.
I looked on AutoZone site, they do not show a 7172, however they show a 7127 that is a 10SI and a 7122 that is a 10DN. F and R terminals leave open the possibility that you actually have a 10DN that requires an external regulator.
I think you are making something very simple complicated. A one-wire alternator means just that - you just have to hook
up one wire to the battery. Ignore the other connections. By the way, there are two 10-SI models. One is 10-SI which
requires a certain RPM to trigger the VR, the other is 10-SISE which is self energizing and is triggered by simply
sensing the battery. If thinking of getting a 10-SI - get the SISE considering a tractor's low RPMs.
up one wire to the battery. Ignore the other connections. By the way, there are two 10-SI models. One is 10-SI which
requires a certain RPM to trigger the VR, the other is 10-SISE which is self energizing and is triggered by simply
sensing the battery. If thinking of getting a 10-SI - get the SISE considering a tractor's low RPMs.
sound Guy I ran a wire form the F term to the B stud on alt I could not get at the Key sw to run a wire from there to the R term so know I have no regulation only charges at 14.2V
This alt is supposed to charge without all this jumping around. 1 wire to battery should do it right. How should the amp meter be wired right now the alt batt wire goes to a sol with 3 term i large cable from batt which the light load and the alt wire is hooked to and 1 heavy cable going to starter and 1 small wire from starter button where would the amp meter be hooked in. right now the only time the amp meter functions is when you push the starter button it shows discharge Someone said I should remove the wire going to the F term and flash the R terminal
Thanks
This alt is supposed to charge without all this jumping around. 1 wire to battery should do it right. How should the amp meter be wired right now the alt batt wire goes to a sol with 3 term i large cable from batt which the light load and the alt wire is hooked to and 1 heavy cable going to starter and 1 small wire from starter button where would the amp meter be hooked in. right now the only time the amp meter functions is when you push the starter button it shows discharge Someone said I should remove the wire going to the F term and flash the R terminal
Thanks
I'm no longer wasting time replying to you.
I've told you exactly how the terminals get wired
Sense gets the charge stud, the other needs switched power.
If you want an ammeter, wire from alt charge stud to one side of meter, other side of meter to the battery or hot side of solenoid. Lamps and ignition are wired to the alt side of meter, nothing else on bat side. If meter reads backwards, swap wires.
I've told you exactly how the terminals get wired
Sense gets the charge stud, the other needs switched power.
If you want an ammeter, wire from alt charge stud to one side of meter, other side of meter to the battery or hot side of solenoid. Lamps and ignition are wired to the alt side of meter, nothing else on bat side. If meter reads backwards, swap wires.
Keith Williams
Member
- Location
- Wellsville, Ohio
Henry V 11,
The alternator is doing what it is designed to do. It puts out current at 14.2 volts and charges the battery and runs the tractor. Those can run as high as 14.4 volts, no problem.
The voltage does not drop as the battery charges. ( Actually the resistance in the battery goes up and the battery does not accept any more charge.)
Think about it, a 12 volt battery is actually around 12.6 volts at rest, so to push any amps into it, you have to have a 1 1/2 to 2 volt differential. You are right at 1.6 volts.
BTW, you do NOT flash an alternator. You mess around trying to short it like that and you will end up with burnt out diodes. Then you will have a 10SI paperweight.
HTH
Keith
The alternator is doing what it is designed to do. It puts out current at 14.2 volts and charges the battery and runs the tractor. Those can run as high as 14.4 volts, no problem.
The voltage does not drop as the battery charges. ( Actually the resistance in the battery goes up and the battery does not accept any more charge.)
Think about it, a 12 volt battery is actually around 12.6 volts at rest, so to push any amps into it, you have to have a 1 1/2 to 2 volt differential. You are right at 1.6 volts.
BTW, you do NOT flash an alternator. You mess around trying to short it like that and you will end up with burnt out diodes. Then you will have a 10SI paperweight.
HTH
Keith
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