Coil?

Coil gets very hot to the touch. Just wondering if that was normal?

A coil will in fact get pretty warm. Maybe to the point you will not want to hold it long. So all depends on you as to what you think is hot and what you think it warm. But yes they can and do get warm enough that most people could not hold them for more then a few seconds. They also tend to get real hot if the voltage is not right as in a 6 volt coil hooked to 12 volts with out a ballast resister

Old, could you elaborate on the resistor please? My tractor has a 12v alt. on it and it gets to the point where you can barely touch it but a second or 2. If I need one I will certainly put one on. Thanks.

If you still have the factory coil on it and 12 volts you need a simple ballast resister in the wire from the ignition switch to the coil. If you have a local O'Reilly's auto parts store the part number of one that works well is VR-1 or VR-2. either one will work just fine. A ballast resister drop the volts going to the coil down to around the correct 6 volts which will make the coil last longer and also make the points last a lot longer

Butting in, I had a Massy Ferguson manual handy one day and found that ignition points on gassers run on a 5 ampere break current
when the points open.

Get a multimeter. HF sells them for $5, little yellow things, may be red, color doesn't matter, and measure your battery voltage when
at PTO rpm with the meter set to DC voltage, 20 volt scale. The number will be 13v or more depending on charge on your battery
and VR settings.

Your ignition circuit will consist of the following: A switch to break the line from your battery voltage usually called an ignition
switch, an ignition coil, maybe a "ballast" resistor (depends on the coil used), and the points connected to the engine which is
connected to the other battery terminal to complete the circuit.

If you have a ballast resistor that needs to be included in your measurement. If you don't know what they are, look for a white
ceramic "hootus" that is about half an inch wide and thick, roughly 2" long with 2 or more terminals and 2 wires connected to it.

With the ignition switch off, measure the terminal voltage (to ground...engine block) on it till you find the one that has no voltage
when off, but voltage when on. That is your feed to your ignition circuit.

With the switch off, switch your meter to Ohms scale and 200 or less ohms. Connect one lead to that switch terminal and the other
to the engine block...battery return terminal...usually -. To make the measurement, the black lead going to the distributor has to be
grounded, however you choose to do that....roll the engine till the points close, or remove the wire and touch it to the engine
block...in a non painted point where it will conduct electricity.

Measure the resistance of that circuit and you should come up with a number around 3 on the meter....3 Ohms.
Take those numbers and using Ohm's law (law of electrical circuit basics) solve for current:

I (current) = Voltage/Resistance. So if you had 13v and 3 ohms as your measurements, your circuit amperage (current) would be 4.3
amperes and would be below the recommended max of 5 amperes. If it were above 5 amperes, your coil would get unnecessarily
hot and your points would burn out faster.

Need more, ask.

Mark