Ford Tractor what exactly do I have?

Scobey

New User
Hello, Brand new here.
I have had this tractor for about a year now. I think it is a 640 or something close to it.
Lately, it has started to overheat, so I'm going to order a new radiator, but want to make sure I get the right model.

Most identifying marks on this tractor are worn away, so if you could point me to clues on what else to check for model info, that would be greatly appreciated.
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On the left side behind the starter you should see 2 bolt holes that are horizontal. There is a flat area there that should have both model and serial number stamped there. Should sort of look like this
6 4 0
%^^$&*&%
The center number says what transmission it has and in this example it would be a 4 speed. You may need to spray the area with carb cleaner spray and wipe the area off a few times to be able to read the numbers
 
I would get the current radiator boiled out before I tried a new one, flush the block, install new thermostat and refill with proper antifreeze. Also, make sure the radiator is not clogged with mud or dust on the outside.
 
Thanks everybody.
It is confirmed to be a 641. After knowing where to scrape the crud off, it was easy to find.
That ID plate I showed does make sense to be just for the loader frame.

I was debating getting the radiator boiled versus buying a new one. Just didn't want to take any chances. I need to get this thing working before the weeds get too tall.
 

As David G says go through the standard service for overheating before getting a new radiator. If you decide to go the new route, be sure to save the old one because it probably has more life left in it than the new one.
 
don't feel bad about the radiator.

my 950 has a lil import car radiator in it. top hose on wrong side. i have to hunt special hoses to make it fit. :)
 
After spending an hour or so unbolting the obvious sheet metal fasteners, it appears that I might have to remove the loader frame to get the sheet metal off? The pto goes through the radiator grill, and I would either have to cut the grill to lift it out, or remove the pump and coupler?
Does this seem correct?
Also, how the heck do you get to the backside of the 5/8" bolts on the bottom at the front?
 

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