Pitman Arm Seals

I've got a pretty good leak coming from the seals behind the pitman arm. Can those be replaced from the outside, or do I have to remove the steering box to replace them? Thanks
 
You have to remove the steering arms but not the steering box.
Steering arms can be a bear even with a good puller.
I usually have to heat them up before they will pop loose.
 
The seals can be replaced externally without disassembly of the gearbox if you know the trick.

Removing the steering arms is usuallly a snap using the two hammer method if you have a couple of good heavy machinist hammers, one about 4 1/2 lbs, the other about 2 1/2 - 3 lbs. This method usually works better than a puller (unless you have the perfect puller for the job) and MUCH better than the pickle fork approach, which I do not recommend.

That said, if the sector shaft bushings are worn (they probably are) replacing the seals will reduce but probably not stop leakage.

I replaced the sector shaft seals in my 55 860 about 10 years ago and filled the gearbox with 85W140 until it just started overflowing beneath the steering wheel to assure that there was plenty of lubrication above the upper thrust bearing for the rest of my life (?). Hint: fill it on a hot summer day. Since then, the right side has dripped two or three times each week (less in winter). The left side does not leak. If I were to do this again, I would use CNH pourable high EP lube rather than the 85W140. I doubt that this would leak at all.

Dean
 
Dean could you explain how to do the two hammer method, or point me to a link where I can find the information. I've got a puller, but I was working with it yesterday and it just didn't seem to be fitting all that good.
I'm probably going to rebuild the gear box with new bearings, seals and bushings, so the arms will have to come off anyway.
 
cd, I was just talking with DEREK this last week about the method he uses to remove Pitman Arms as I had used the 2 hammer method w/o success. HE advised to pull arm to the rear of the tractor and hit the arm on the inside and it should pop off. He advised not to use a tie rod fork. After the 2 hammer method and deep creep penetrant hitting the arm on the inside worked for me on my 8N.

As I understand it, the 2 hammer method is placing a bigger hammer against the arm on one side and smacking the arm with another smaller hammer on the other side. The blow from the smaller hammer will make the bigger hammer jump from the arm and smack it.

It helps to first try 2 hammer to shock it loose then the inside arm whack. Deep Creep penetrant made a big difference too.
 
(quoted from post at 07:09:47 06/16/15) cd, I was just talking with DEREK this last week about the method he uses to remove Pitman Arms as I had used the 2 hammer method w/o success. HE advised to pull arm to the rear of the tractor and hit the arm on the inside and it should pop off. He advised not to use a tie rod fork. After the 2 hammer method and deep creep penetrant hitting the arm on the inside worked for me on my 8N.

As I understand it, the 2 hammer method is placing a bigger hammer against the arm on one side and smacking the arm with another smaller hammer on the other side. The blow from the smaller hammer will make the bigger hammer jump from the arm and smack it.

It helps to first try 2 hammer to shock it loose then the inside arm whack. Deep Creep penetrant made a big difference too.
Thanks for the info. I'll be giving it a try here in a few days.
 

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