dwag

Member
Got an 860 in shop that hasn't run for ??? yrs. Did usual stuff like carb kit, tune up/timing, fresh gas etc. Took it on a drive and ran perfect 1st 20 min then started throwing fits, would die and carb would be empty w/good flow from tank. Gas (ethanol) boiling in tank, outside temp 85 degrees. Vapor lock????
 
(quoted from post at 19:35:29 06/04/15) Got an 860 in shop that hasn't run for ??? yrs. Did usual stuff like carb kit, tune up/timing, fresh gas etc. Took it on a drive and ran perfect 1st 20 min then started throwing fits, would die and carb would be empty w/good flow from tank. Gas (ethanol) boiling in tank, outside temp 85 degrees. Vapor lock????
 
Heat shield between the tank and engine still there??? Common problem if the heat shield is not there or the tank vent is plugged up
 

Without it being hot out or working the tractor HARD, I can't see how the gas can be boiling. That is like saying that you pour some gas from your can into a pan on the ground and it is sitting there boiling. You looked into the tank and saw bubbles rising up out of the liquid?
 
It's not vapor lock.

Is the OEM heat shield in place?

Has the OEM fuel line been altered? If so, need photo.

Have you verified that all of the screens are STILL clean?

Dean
 
Heat shield in place, OEM fuel line (1/4"),good flow through sediment bowl assy when detached from carb. After "sleeping on it" will check adv in dist when time allows. New fuel cap from FNH was NOT venting and carb flooded a bunch when eng died. Dissembled carb and checked, loosened cap and tractor would run 2/3 minuets and die with carb bowl empty. Put old cap back on and drove home and noticed fuel "rumbling" and heard cap venting after parking tractor. Thanks for reply's, john
 
It's not spark advance.

Verify float drop adjustment.

Avoid gasoline with ethanol if possible.

Dean
 
(quoted from post at 19:37:28 06/05/15)New fuel cap from FNH was NOT venting and carb flooded a bunch when eng died.

A fuel cap that was not venting would have the exact opposite effect. The fuel flow to the carb would slow or probably stop if there was no venting. One of these does not cause the other.

If the carb is flooding then, as was said earlier, check the float level. However, if the float level adjustment is correct then you have an issue with the needle and the seat. I had the same problem with my 860 last year. I ordered a new kit from external_link, and I still could not get it to stop the fuel flow after the bowl was full. I ordered another kit from a place on Ebay. It would flood too. The needle would not shut off the fuel flow when the bowl was full. The solution for me was to use the new needle, new seat, and the old piece of bent wire that the needle is attached to. I'm sorry, I don't know what it's called. But using the new one that came in the kit was useless.

My 860 has sat in the barn all winter with a full tank of fuel. Not a single drop has dripped from the carb and the tank is still completely full, and the fuel shutoff does not work. If the needle and seat are serviceable and the float is adjusted properly, there is no need for a fuel shutoff, and fuel will not flood the carb. I started it last week for the first time this year, and it started almost instantly. Yours should behave the same way.

It sounds like you also have an ignition timing issue.

Good luck to you.

Gil
 
The wire bail attaches the needle to the float arm to prevent the viton tip from sticking in the seat. This is a significant problem if one uses fuel stabilizer or gasoline with ethanol. Unfortunately, most of the bails have long since been lost and most of the needles in the readily available carburetor kits are not designed for use with the bail.

Improper adjustment of the float DROP will allow the float to contact the sides of the float bowl if one shuts the fuel off before shutting down or runs out of fuel. This can cause the float to stick with the needle valve open when the fuel valve is next opened (or fuel added) causing carburetor flooding before start up. After start up, engine vibration is usually enough to prevent the float from sticking open.

Because he float drop adjustment is nearly always ignored upon carburetor rebuild, such issues are not uncommon.

Dean
 
I had low idle set set at 1 degree, and advance was stuck. Dissembled advance and cleaned/freed up, set timing at 4 degrees, advances to 28 at high idle, runs good. When tractor stalled yesterday, carb was flooded, which I dissembled and everything looked good. Tractor would not run w/intake pipe connected, (which I discovered today air cleaner was 1/3 full of gas) and would only run couple minuets with new cap loosened. Put old cap on and limped back to shop. The new fuel cap was not venting and so much pressure was built up in tank that fuel was forced through carb? There was A LOT OF PRESSURE IN TANK, feel fortunate I'm not in a Hospital Burn Unit today. Ethanol will be drained and replaced w/regular before tractor leaves shop. Thanks for reply's and feel free to comment, john
 
check carefully for an exhaust manifold/elbow/muffler/muffler outlet leak that is blowing exhaust at the gas line or up at the shield/tank.
Like the other posters, I'd want to know why the gas is boiling under mild work.
 
I'll take a look. Guessing that the ign. timing and stuck advance was the problem. Running at high idle up and down hills at 2 degrees had to make her run hot. I should have caught on earlier as eng sounded like it was working too hard.
 

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