Ford 960 - Was given to me by a friend

rbhuntn

Member
Hi all, New to this forum site. Wanted to take a minute to say hello and see if anyone else out there has a Ford 960. This one is a 1955 narrow front with 4200 hours and it came with a working 6 foot brush cutter (brand unknown). Tractor was owned by a friends deceased father-n-law who had started the 12V conversion but never finished.

The engine turns easy but she won't start right now. I have purchased the 6V coil, generator rebuild kit for the original 6V gen, distributor cap and rotor, plugs, points, condenser and 6V voltage regular. Also bought a carb rebuild kit. Only thing left is purchasing a new 6V batt and getting all these new parts installed so we can get the old girl up and running.

Sheet metal is all good and straight as well and all lights intact including the rear facing work light. As you can see I an putting her back to the original 6V system. Please don't get me wrong I am not a purest but if she was designed with 6V figured putting it all back would be best.

Your thoughts?

Sorry no pics yet as she is dirty, Been sitting in the barn for a few years since he passed on. Also bought the shop manual.

BJ
 
For a time was the main tractor dad had around here, I learned
to drive on it, still have it. Was road hard and put away wet,
mine needs some TLC.

Good tractor.

Paul
 
In the long run it would be by far cheaper to go with 12 volts then to go back to 6 volts. As for all those parts again better to trouble shoot then parts not the other way around. Most all the tractor I have where pulled out of fence rows not running and it took little or no parts to drive them off the trailer. Clean the point and check for spark. Pull the carb drain plug and make sure you have a good flow of gas. If you have a good blue/white spark the jump a 1/4 inch gap and gas flow it should start
 
I have a '57 960. Just finished cleaning the drive from drifted snow w/it and an old Dearborn 3 point blade. Always starts, runs great, & easy to drive! I'm sure you'll love it!
My only question is - how do you get someone to GIVE you a tractor????:)
 
Welcome to the forum! I own a 960 NF also. Love it.
Don't worry about a little dirt for pictures.
Shoot, mine's not even the right colors, but it runs well! :)

mvphoto14921.jpg
 
I thought that the blue paint contributed to it running better. Wasn't that why they offered the repaint program after the blue ones came out? :D
 
congrats
IMHO, NF 960-961-early 4000,
best Ford tractor made before they went to the 'square' ones.
Turn on a dime, more power than you can even use, and look great.

6v-12v up to you, they both work.
However...your post saying the previous owner was converting...
might mean the 6v system was toast.
Cheaper then, to go 12v.

while you are waiting for parts, dump all the oil, everywhere.
It's dirty, and probably watered.
clean oil is good before you start making parts turn against each other after a long sleep.
I'd also spray some light oil or ATF in the cylinders before turning it.
After you get it running and warm, change the engine oil again.
oil is cheap...parts ain't
 
As to how did I get someone to give me the tractor. Well he is one of my best friends and he just bought a new Kubota with a 5 foot brush cutter and also has a 40HP full size Ford with FEL and Backhoe so he really just wanted this one out of his way. Initially he was going to sell it to me for $500 and then just changed his mind and gave it me. He knows that it will benefit him also as we will be using all of these tractors to maintain his property and 100 acres that we hunt on. So maybe he thought that it was in his best interest.

As to the 12V vs 6V the only 12 volt part that had been put on the tractor was the coil. I looked at all the parts and it was actually cheaper to go back to 6V and I have ran a lot of old tractors back when I was a kid growing up on the farm (30 years back) that were 6V and we never really had any issues.

The old tractor was running a couple of months back using a 12V battery so should not take much to get her up and running.

I do agree and will be changing the oil. Already got a grease gun and a tube of grease for it also.
 
Looking forward to getting the old tractor up and working again. We have a lot of work for it waiting. It may be a few weeks before I get another chance to work on the old girl. No looking for sympathy here. My mom passed last week and I will have to make a couple of trips back to Ark to help my 79 year old Dad get some things taken care. Will keep all of you posted on the progress as I get time.
 
Thanks for the encouragement. Hopefully I can get the tractor and brush cutter running and cutting as smoothly as yours looks like it is.
 
Nice looking trio! Them N fenders do sit up a bit high don't they. The power adjustables and bigger tires just make them look that much more powerfull, IMHO.
 
Yup, good row crop fenders are hard to find. Most of mine havethem, but a few are sporting generics.

I also have played with tire sizes based on what iI had.

I put a set of 11.2-28 on one, 13.6-28 on another and 14.9-28 on another.

The 13.6 is on a 740. The 14.9 are on a 950
 
I have a couple of questions for you extremely knowledgeable folks out there. Time and weather are starting to get back on my side and hope to get the 960 running here in a week or two. I have been reading a lot of posts about water potential in the trans and hyd systems.

My question is on the 960 are the hyd and trans fluid the same or are these separate reservoirs?

Where are the filters located for the trans and hyd? Any part numbers here would be helpful. I have the shop manual but not in front of me at the moment.

I will be changing the fluid(s) before use and will be going with UTC.
 
(quoted from post at 12:46:56 02/25/15) I have a couple of questions for you extremely knowledgeable folks out there. Time and weather are starting to get back on my side and hope to get the 960 running here in a week or two. I have been reading a lot of posts about water potential in the trans and hyd systems.

My question is on the 960 are the hyd and trans fluid the same or are these separate reservoirs?

Where are the filters located for the trans and hyd? Any part numbers here would be helpful. I have the shop manual but not in front of me at the moment.

I will be changing the fluid(s) before use and will be going with UTC.

They are separate reservoirs but everyone here treats them as one because leakage can allow mixing. As there are no clutch packs in either housing the type of oil is not critical but the standard here is UTF, universal transmission fluid. There is no screen for either housing. The really important thing here is to get the housings clean. You may very likely drain some nasty stuff out. If it is apparent that there is water contamination, you can rinse the housings with fuel. After a good drain period put the drain plugs back in, pour a gallon or so fuel in and rock the tractor back and forth a little to help loosen the sludge. Then drain the fuel and fill to level with UTF. Another very important thing is to check at least annually for water in the bottom of each housing. A tractor that is stored indoors will still get water in the housings due to condensation. A machine that is worked regularly will drive the moisture out with the heat generated, but if it is not worked the moisture will accumulate and must be drained manually.
 
Showcrop thanks for the info. This unit has been stored indoors but not ran much in the last several years.

I will read the shop manual for the drain plug locations and fill levels.

I meant to use UTF but typed UTC by mistake.

Once I get the old girl up and running I will post some pics even though she is dirty. Clean up to come after functionality.
 
I will read the shop manual for the drain plug locations and fill levels.

Routine maintenance items like fluid and filter changes aren't really covered well in the service manual. They are covered in detail in the Operator's manual, which is also referred to by some as the owner's manual.
 
Welcome. I finished my 1955 960 a couple years ago except for the rear rim resto, which am doing right now. And I still need to put the 960 on the hood sides (airbrush). I restored show quality, but use my 960 all summer for mowing.

I highly recommend the Optima red top 6V battery. I used to always fight with terminal corrosion, but optimas will NOT corrode the terminals. I made a custom hold down for mine from flat bar, welding, and bodyworking that looks like it could be an original. I also custom made the hold down rods.


[u:b39a47fcb3][/u:b39a47fcb3]

 
(quoted from post at 06:02:12 02/27/15) Welcome. I finished my 1955 960 a couple years ago except for the rear rim resto, which am doing right now. And I still need to put the 960 on the hood sides (airbrush). I restored show quality, but use my 960 all summer for mowing.

I highly recommend the Optima red top 6V battery. I used to always fight with terminal corrosion, but optimas will NOT corrode the terminals. I made a custom hold down for mine from flat bar, welding, and bodyworking that looks like it could be an original. I also custom made the hold down rods.


[u:67a713c566][/u:67a713c566]


Brad, You know that you can get the 960 stickers for the hood sides from George Bradisch.
 
I am not planning a full restore. I just the old tractor functioning correctly to work. Mostly brush hogging, light tilling/disc and some blade work.

Will be used on the hunting property to keep things clean and put in some food plots mostly. Blade work will be to help level spot for cabins, smoothing out some ditch sides and pond dam repairs as needed.

Nice pics thanks for sharing
 
I have the sticker, but I want to stencil/airbrush it on. Originally it was silk screened, and the stencil/airbrush will look more authentic in my opinion and not stick out like a sticker. I did the same thing on a car restoration to stencil lettering on an oil filter canister. The sticker they sell is here on the right. The left two are the vinyl stencils I had made. They are just vinyl decals made by a sign company, but instead of using the actual letters, I removed them leaving the negative - my stencil. I adhere it to the surface, mask off anything around I don't' want overspray on, and then I lightly airbrush. If you leave a thin enough coat you can let it dry. Don't pull up the stencil until it's fully dry for a few days preferably so that you don't tear the edges of the letters.
 
Guys I was able to get some work done on the old 960 this weekend. Please keep in mind that a 12V conversion was started in the past and never finished. I put it back to 6V.

Got the plugs. points, condenser, plug wires, dist cap and rotor installed. Mounted and rewired what I could of the voltage reg.

Old tractor will run on carb cleaner but not with the carb. We took the carb apart and cleaned installed new float needle, carb still not working. Plan on getting a new or rebuilt one.

My question for all of you extremely knowledgeable folks out there is this. When I was using the wiring diagram in the shop manual the diagram only shows the wires from the genny going to the voltage reg. Is there more wiring needed from the voltage reg to the batt or other location for the batt to charge?

Seems to me there is something missing here.

Another question the Amp Meter is not currently wired and I can find no diagram in the shop manual where the Amp Meter should be connected to.

Any help on these would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

BJ
 
Well the old 960 gave up the ghost I think.

Got the carb back on and replaced the fuel shutoff valve. Had great flow to the carb no gunk coming out of the carb.

Batt had died so after getting these parts back on we attempted to pull start the old girl.

After a few minutes oil started blowing back out of the breather and then the engine quits turning over and the she started to free wheel with the tranny in 5th gear.

At this point I think I am going to sell the 960 off or part it out.

I don't have the time to rebuild it.

Your thoughts?

BJ
 
Sorry to hear that, they're great tractors. If you do
decide to part it out, I'm looking for a good pair of fenders.
 
(quoted from post at 15:36:55 05/27/15) Sorry to hear that, they're great tractors. If you do
decide to part it out, I'm looking for a good pair of fenders.

Would rather sell whole. If I end parting it out I will let you know.

BJ
 
(quoted from post at 14:17:38 05/28/15)
(quoted from post at 15:36:55 05/27/15) Sorry to hear that, they're great tractors. If you do
decide to part it out, I'm looking for a good pair of fenders.

Would rather sell whole. If I end parting it out I will let you know.

BJ
 

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