Remote spools on 4000, 3 cyl

Remote spools on my 4000 are leaking when in use. I haven't taken the rubber grommet off to look at them yet, they appear to be a one piece unit. These are the ones that "break away" if you forget to unhook them, I presume "factory". Are parts available or do I just replace with a TC spool?

Bill
 
Leaking when in use indicates a bad o-ring in the female coupler body. Easily changed and cheap to obtain. The female coupler bodies can be changed individually if they leak while the couplers are not in use or the aforementioned O-rings don't cure the leak.
 
Thanks Rick, that is what I was hoping to hear. I looked through my CD manual but couldn't find anything about the remote spools, pictures or text, in the hydraulics section. Is there a parts picture anywhere?

Thanks again,

Bill
 

Hi Bill. If I understand you correctly, I think what you are calling spools are really the couplings or some say couplers that attach the hoses from an implement to the tractor. The spool is inside of the valve. The spool is the steel rod that you move with the valve's lever.

That may be why you could not find a reference to it in your manual, because you may have been looking for the correct thing, but thinking it is called something else.

If I'm simply just misunderstanding you, then I apologize and disregard my post.

Gil
 
Thank you guys and I am confusing the couplings with the spools. The couplings look like spools so I thought I knew what I was talking about.
DIDN'T!!!!
Does the tractor end of the couplings come apart to install a new o-ring or does the 0-ring just slip on?

Bill
 
Are you saying that it's leaking at the point where the hose connects to the remote control valve or at the other end of the hose where the quick disconnect couplings are?

Maybe you could post a picture of where it's leaking.

If it is a factory remote kit and it's leaking at the valve end of the hose then it should be a banjo bolt type of connection with an o-ring on top of the block that the banjo bolt goes through, plus a "sealing ring" below the block, parts labeled 21 and 22 in the drawing at the second link I posted above. You should be able to remove the banjo bolt and replace the o-ring and sealing ring and put the bolt back in and tighten it down to the proper torque spec. I don't have a manual handy so I can't say what the proper torque is.
 

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