Spark plugs, point set, and electronic ignition

Right now I am working on a charging problem with my Ford 601 workmaster. After I get past this I would like to try and get it running a little smoother and starting easier. The plugs and wires look bad. plugs are rusted at the base and the wires are pretty cracked up. I think I can replace those but the point set and timing is more confusing. would it be pointless to replace the plugs and wires and not mess with the point set and timing? What about replacing plugs and wires and adding electronic ignition? it looks like an easy install and replaces the point set.

my advice?

1, if it has bad wireing.. get that corrected FIRST. bad wireing can cause both charge and ignition problems.

once you have good wires in place, and a hot battery, you can set the charge system to the side for a moment.

Now, address the plugs. bad rusty old plugs need changing.

so.. new wires, new plugs. Next INSPECT, clean and gap the points. Even if you will be tossing them later, get them set correct.

.025 on plugs and points for your 601.

now, set timing.

after all that. see where you are on running. if ok, then tackle charge system with the following in mind:

IF you decide to go for EI, I suggest FIRST going to a working 12v conversion, and then get 12v EI, vs 6v EI, but that's me.

working 12v, can be, a alternator, or a 12v gen and reg from a diesel 01.

Yeah, maybe I can read up on timing and points and figure it out. I hated to go to the 12v because I just recently had to get a new 6 volt batt. and have confirmed that my generator is good. Hated to switch to 12 since I have working 6 volt parts minus a $14 VR.

If a new 6v battery and working gen just Stay 6v and make her run, might table the ei idea for a while.

Points are easy, run her over in direction of rot, rubbing block on top of a lobe at may gap, set to .025. Check all or check shaft wobble/ bushings, if not bad, lube the front of the rubbing block and a film on the cam with appropriate lobe lube. I use ml1. Generic grease is a poor sub, but better than dry. Nothing on the cleaned contacts.

(quoted from post at 13:04:51 05/18/15) Yeah, maybe I can read up on timing and points and figure it out. I hated to go to the 12v because I just recently had to get a new 6 volt batt. and have confirmed that my generator is good. Hated to switch to 12 since I have working 6 volt parts minus a $14 VR.

Click to expand...

With a $14 regulator you may still have charging problems

---

I definitely agree with SoundGuy.

Stick with what you have (6v).

Just went through the same deal on my NAA (6v).

Wiring was trash (cracked and missing insulation, frayed wire ends, oxidation, grease, oil and grit everywhere, battery was draining weekly (some shorting somewhere), etc), so I rewired it all. Also replaced nuts so that now the bolt metal and nut match (brass on brass and steel on steel), washers and lock washers all around too. Wire brush those bolt threads (again steel on steelbrass on brass).
Clean and Bright is good.
I've also rewired a 12v 2N (in a similar neglected state) and can now say that a 6v wiring job is easiersimpler (don't get hung up on the positive ground... just call it ground and move on). Make sure you have good clean and proper (heavy) gauge battery cables and starter cable (in this case; what works for 12v surely doesn't work well for 6v). 1/0 or better.

On my NAA, I also found zero gap in the points (no lock washer) and stuck spark plug wire ends in the distributor wire end connectors (heavy bluegreen corrosion) and a rotor that needed some careful persuasion to slide out (watch that dust cover, it can crack).

I chose to leave the distributor in the tractor and simply replaced all other parts (plugs @ .025, plug wires (1, 2, 4, 3), rotor, condensor, points @ .025) and waited for that first start up to see if timing also needed to be addressed.

The tune up took less than an hour to do (popped one or two tops and even had lunch) and I'm super glad that I did.

Light film of moly only grease ML1 ("ECH ML1" @ NAPA) on cam lobes and engine oil in the distributor oiler covered hole and generator covered hole.

She starts easy, no choke needed and runs smooth.
Idle was then too fast (875 RPM) so a very simple 3/4 turn out on the carb idle stop screw is all that was needed (Thx again "Old" & "TexasMark1").

Now looking forward to some cold starts this winter.

My opinion; EI would just be throwing money away.
Put that $ to better use elsewhere on the tractor.

-CBull