ford 2000 brakes continued with photo

ok here is a photo showing the adjusting rod going into the brake plate and the shoes......notice the amount of clearance between shoes and end of the brake shaft from
the transmission housing.
a191362.jpg

a191363.jpg
 
I think its common that those wear. I've built them up by welding and grinding flat. You do have to use care, not too much, there must be a specification on the thickness or someone may know. They don't work worth a darn unless they're right. Have you got the felt dust seal for it? At least the axle seals are not leaking! Shoes look good, new ones?

I should add that given the photo and the gap, before doing any modification or welding, are the brake shoe parts correct, saw the below post.

That part does wear, and I've done more than one to get them working properly, that does look square, so maybe there is more to it than the end of that shaft being worn. Last one I did, they were noticeably worn down.
 
If it were me I'd carefully build that upper shoe's edge up with weld to get it closer to the square engagement cam. Maybe even weld a piece of key-stock to it and re-dress it to slide smoothly.
 
(quoted from post at 12:00:53 05/14/15) If it were me I'd carefully build that upper shoe's edge up with weld to get it closer to the square engagement cam. Maybe even weld a piece of key-stock to it and re-dress it to slide smoothly.
Had the same problem on my 640, and as suggested I welded a piece of key stock on the end of the shoes.
 
Dont your shoes hang at 12:00 and attach at 6:00?
Why are yours attached at 3 and 9?

even on the chn catalog they are shown at 12 and 6.
 
A 3 cylinder 2000 takes a different shoe than does a 4 cylinder 2000, but look a lot alike. Just a thought.
 
I think Wayne's got it, that's too uniform of a gap for those to be the correct shoes... to my mind anyways.

If the fix is buying new I'd go with welding and making these work, 'cause I'm a cheapskate.
 
As always, the choice is yours to make. If it were mine, I would cut a few tabs of flat strap the needed thickness to take up the slack, then tack them to the actuator's flats. Leave the shoes alone, that's too much work. Just tack enough to hold them in place so you can knock them off later if you choose to.
 
Try adjusting the brakes using the star wheel adjuster to remove the slop in the shoes.

Jack up one rear wheel at a time and tighten the adjuster (star wheel) through the rectangular slot on the rear side of the drum. Tighten till there is a slight drag as you turn the wheel.
 

those are new shoes.........yes.......I didn't buy the shoes were on tractor when I bought and not hooked up the guy got sick and I even put the tires on it to load it to get it home. I wonder if they are the correct ones with that much space.........strange things.........
 
(quoted from post at 09:32:49 05/14/15) Dont your shoes hang at 12:00 and attach at 6:00?
Why are yours attached at 3 and 9?

even on the chn catalog they are shown at 12 and 6.

these are attached at top and bottom so open ends are 3 and 9 is where the star tightner is......
 
They have to be the wrong shoes. You can see the oblong holes under the straps and they are all the way in. I have a 3 cyl 2000 and the shoes are snug against the flats of the shaft. Before you weld them up, measure the distance to add on and make a template of the end shape so you can file them back correctly.
 
At first glance they would appear to be the wrong shoes. There were several different shoes available for those tractors depending on the exact year and what drums were used... and it's easy to get the wrong ones. That said....... before I went welding on them I think I'd adjust up the star wheels so the rear of the shoe is tight to the drum, more or less... and if that doesn't take up the slack, then I'd free the clevis' on each brake actuating rod and take up all of the free travel in the pedals. I think when you bring the actuators around you will close up most of that gap without having to take any drastic action.

Rod
 
Lots of things could be wrong.
I would have to see both ends of all 4 shoes to be sure as it is very easy to put some on backwards or on wrong side of tractor especially since it looks like one shoe is touching the actuator and one is not.
You want to look how the hole the pin is threw as compared to the end of the shoe.
Moving the adjuster on the other end of the shoe is gona do nothing to change that relation.
 
(quoted from post at 09:36:32 05/14/15) ok here is a photo showing the adjusting rod going into the brake plate and the shoes......notice the amount of clearance between shoes and end of the brake shaft from
the transmission housing.
a191362.jpg

a191363.jpg

Its been too many years... is there a primary shoe and a secondary shoe, and maybe they got reversed? The bottom shoe is against the flat actuator. Or wrong shoes? I don't see the wear on the actuator.
 
Well I parts chased all day today..........ended up welding key stock on one shoe, question is should I weld something on the other shoe too? Still has just a wee bit of play......I used 5/16 allen wrench for the ends of the two shoes.....

one works pretty well on right side and other left side not so good........I put the welded up ended shoes on top of both sides.........What you all think ?????

Scott
 

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