Ford 2000 4cyl gas

The electrical system on the 1963 Ford 2000 4cyl gas was a positive ground system meaning the positive terminal on the battery goes to ground. What will happen if the battery is hooked up as a negative ground?
 
What will happen?? Maybe the charging system will not work but other then that not much if any thing
 
I asked because I had to replace the battery and I took the old out and bought a new and believe it was originally hooked up as a positive ground but had a little doubt so wanted to make sure before completing the hookup of the new battery. Want to make sure it wouldn't be catastrophic. Thanks for the answer Old. I will go ahead and complete the hook up.
 
(quoted from post at 11:19:04 04/25/15) I asked because I had to replace the battery and I took the old out and bought a new and believe it was originally hooked up as a positive ground but had a little doubt so wanted to make sure before completing the hookup of the new battery. Want to make sure it wouldn't be catastrophic. Thanks for the answer Old. I will go ahead and complete the hook up.
f you didn't replace the cables, too, the size of battery posts & cable end holes ought to make it clear & obvious as to how it was connected before.
 
Jump bat hot to field

For vreg safety, pull the wire to the reg field before applying bat hot to the Genny field.
 
I hooked up the new battery and all went well. It is positive ground. Now I am back to where I was before (earlier post different thread)
Carberator issues - I put gas in the tractor (about half gallon or less) I start it runs, I let it run until it dies (about 5 to 10 minutes) gas dripping out of the carb. Assume carb needs rebuilt but cannot clean carb good enough to get a part number to order a basic rebuild kit. See picture attached
19946.jpg

Recommendations? Thanks
 
(quoted from post at 09:05:52 04/27/15) I hooked up the new battery and all went well. It is positive ground. Now I am back to where I was before (earlier post different thread)
Carberator issues - I put gas in the tractor (about half gallon or less) I start it runs, I let it run until it dies (about 5 to 10 minutes) gas dripping out of the carb. Assume carb needs rebuilt but cannot clean carb good enough to get a part number to order a basic rebuild kit. See picture attached
19946.jpg

Recommendations? Thanks
ou don't need to clean all the cow poop off of the whole carb to get a number. Just the circled area.

like this:
 
while I'm a firm believer that it doesn't matter how dirty a carb is on the outside, as long as it's clean on the inside.....
I might clean that one up a bit.

When working on unmarked carbs, I take the old bowl gasket
or the bowl with me to match up when buying a kit.
Marvel kits are pretty basic once you get the right bowl gasket.
(Zeniths.....I take the old gasket/bowl with me...even when I have the number...lol)
 
(quoted from post at 08:32:24 04/28/15)
should be like a tsx 428 or 580 for that size engine..
Sound it appears the basic carburetor kit is the same for both the TSX 428 or 580. If I ordered the kit which includes Viton Needle and Seat etc... Once I break down the carburetor I should know if the kit is the correct one?
 

I went ahead and bought a new carburetor. After removing the old one is there anything I should do as far as cleaning? For example run some cleaner or gas down from the tank to the sediment bowl to flush it out and make sure all is clean and flowing without any blockage and what about the air filter? Installing the new carburetor what is the torque specifications for tightening the carburetor to the intake?
 

never hurts to flush the line and clean the sediment bowl.

you don't want to break carb or manifold ears, and it should have a beefy gasket, just get it tight. I usually put chassis grease smear on both sides, that way it comes off easy without damaging the gasket.
 
The new carburetor is installed and everything looks good with one exception. The side of the bolt that attaches the sediment bowl to the carburetor is weeping gas so slowly that the housing just starts to look like it sweating. I assume it is the little gasket on the carburetor side of the bolt. The gasket is hard should it be a little pliable so that it seals better or is it suppose to be hard? I assume the brand new carburetor needs no adjusting, would that be a safe assumption?
 

The carb may need adjustment.

On the bolt gasket, banjo bolt, etc, it make new gaskets out of gasket paper-thick, or thin cardboard, luke cerial box, etc.

Note the holes in the bolt and the sediment housing, it is possible to get it on wrong and block or reduce flow.
 

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