apparently a 1966 Ford 2000 with issues

Guys it has been a while.
Brought the old girl home to try to get things right. Scrubbed the numbers and I believe what I thought was a 1968 is actually a 1966.





Tractor prrrrs at idle. Put a load on it like a bush hog and it starts surging.
Here is what I posted a couple of years ago with a video.
http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?p=6264752#6264752

Anyway noticed fuel is leaking around the bowl gasket. I can see the gasket is moist and it is so slow it varnishes on the outside of the bolt at the bottom of the bowl. I also noticed fuel on the fuel line coming from the fuel pump right where it bends to go from the right side of the tractor across the front. The fuel pump and lines look dry so I'm wondering if the fuel line might have gotten a hole rubbed in it. 3 gallons of fuel leaked out in about a week. I've cleaned the line and will add some fuel to see if I can locate the any fuel seeping out. Petcock needs replacing as well.

Then I noticed that I have a whole in the exhaust manifold. It is rusted out on the side towards the engine between 2 cylinders.

My questions.

1. Do I have a 1966 or a 1968?? Does it matter when ordering parts??

2. If the fuel line has a leak, can I get replacements or could I route braided fuel lines? Would that work? I can by 10 feet of it in 5/16th for a good price. Thinking it might be cheaper...

3. Any tips on getting the old manifold off? Talk about rusted and baked on.. I do not want to break a bolt and cause more issues. Soak the crap out of it with penetrating oil for a few days then heat and impact wrench??

4. Could this tractor be gravity fed and bypass the fuel pump? I only use it in flat river bottom land. Longest incline might be 30 feet long and a elevation change of 10 feet.

5. Can I spray carb cleaner or something around carb to see if it is sucking in air and changes RPM's.

I had a old fella rebuild the carb a few years ago when this all started. Now I have to have the choke pulled out about 1/2" at all times. Never had to do that before but it used to be really hard to start.

It all will get fixed, just trying to figure out the surging issue as I fix the other stuff. Any suggestions of where to buy parts??

Thanks
ctford

1. C154988 is a late 1966 serial number and 6J22 is September 22, 1966. The numbers are stamped into the bell housing of the transmission, so the only thing that you know for sure is that the tractor that the transmission was in when it left the factory was a 1966 tractor that was made on September 22 of that year. There are date codes on all of the major components that would help determine if the transmission is original to that tractor. On the right side of the engine block down low, just above the oil pan there should be a couple of date codes, one for when the block was cast and one for when the engine was assembled, plus on the hydraulic top cover and rear axle there should be date codes for when those components were assembled as well.

Why did you think it was a 1968 tractor in the first place? It shouldn't make a difference when ordering some of the parts like the exhaust manifold and carburetor rebuild kit, but they changed a few things on April 1, 1968, like the sheet metal, grill and a few other things, so even if it was a 1968 tractor you would need to know the exact date that it was made to be able to order the correct parts for those items.

2. The fuel lines are no longer available new, but you might find them at a salvage yard. Or you could make them out of steel brake line, many folks on here have done that.

3. The exhaust manifold on my '73 4000 was worse than what you describe when I got it. It had been stored outside for years without a muffler or a rain cap and the entire bottom of the manifold was gone. I thought that I would be breaking studs when I tried to remove them so I soaked them with PB Blast a couple of times a day for about a week before I attempted to remove it, and most of the bolts came right out without a struggle. Once I broke them loose with the ratchet the threads inside were so clean that the unscrewed by hand. One of them took a cheater bar on the ratchet to break it free but after that it unscrewed by hand as well. I've read of similar experiences from others on here as well. As long as they were tight enough to keep the gasket sealed, I think that there's basically no way for water to get in and rust the threads, so even though the heads of the bolts look really nasty the threads should be good and turn out easily once you have them broke loose.

4. The needle valve of the carb is designed for the 4 to 6 psi of the mechanical fuel pump, so gravity feed might not give enough pressure to open the valve all of the time, especially as the level in the tank gets lower.

5. Yes, spraying any aerosol that is flammable around the carb and intake manifold while it is running should help you find any vacuum leaks.

Are these the fuel lines I need?? Or are these for diesel?


http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/Ford-2000_Injection-Line-Set-3-Cylinder_FPL100.html

Those are diesel lines, don't know if they can be modified or not for what you need.