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New2me 650 update

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phil_n

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It runs! Well it idles. I think I need to do the carb next. The FEL works - raised it about a foot and it took 4 or 5 hours to drop a few inches when it wasn't running. Clutch and tranny seem ok. Couldn't move the PTO lever but I could before so I probably don't know what I am doing :) . Centrifugal advance was rust seized.

Couple of questions:

Can rust freeze the governor mechanism? (Not sure there is a problem there, just asking in case.)

Which plug do I remove to bleed the hydraulic pump? There are two on the top - I think it's a piston pump (1957 going by the serial #).

TIA
 
Check to make sure the throttle flapper butterfly is not stuck near closed and thus idle, also see if the governor arm at the engine front is even
movable.

As for the Hyde, the front plug but if in doubt snap a pic and post.

Have you taken off the PTO shifter plate for a look see, might just be the handle and plate issue
 
With it not running try to move the carb linkage from the gov to the carb. As sound said if they sit a long time the linkage or carb butter fly will rust up and then you have what you have
 
Thanks guys - it looks as if it was maybe the carb and fuel flow. Took it apart and found just a bit of crud in the bottom but maybe enough to plug the main so I gave it a good cleaning with carb cleaner and air and now it revs up and goes around. Going out tomorrow to get a new fuel filter. All the gears I've tried so far work fine as does the clutch. Actually sounds pretty good running - most noise seems to be coming from the hydraulic pump clattering and rattling (sort of). I put my stethoscope on the motor - head, block, front, back,etc. - it's vital signs were good.

Oh yeah, I pulled the plug and filled it with oil (as seen on youtube) and cranked it over but nothing happened in the bleed port. Nothing, no gushing, no bubbling, no rippling, just as if it wasn't even turning, which I know it is somewhat because the tach drive goes round. Guess I better get that manual. :)
 
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