1963 ford 4000 hydraulics

Minorg64

Member
I recently aquired a 1963 ford 4000 tractor. Serial # 12764
The electrical wiring is a mess and the tractor has sat out in the weather for 4 years. However after several hours of work the tractor is now running. Transmission is a 5 speed and seems to works fine. The creamy white liquid on the dipstick on the side of the tractor reveals that there is water in the hydraulics as they are not working with the pto engaged. Was hoping someone can tell me some info on this model tractor. Are the Trans, hyd, differential seperate or is this a common sump. What is the best fluid to use after I drain this fluid out. How do I know if this tractor has live pto or transmission pto.
Thanks
Gerald
 
They are separate. It has live hydraulics the PTO does not have to run. You will have to bleed the pump after the oil change.
 
Thanks for the reply.
I haven't acquired a manual for this tractor yet. Do u know the required amounts for refill and what is best to use for refill
 
All 5 speed 4 cylinder 4000 models have live PTO.

Your tractor has 3 sumps aside from the engine: Transmission, hydraulics, and differential, front to rear. You should use CNH 134D ( or equivalent) in the hydraulics.

You can use GL5 90W in the transmission and differential but many (most?) now use CNH 134D in all three sumps as CNH now recommends.

It is not uncommon for the intercompartment seals to leak in these old machines allowing oil to migrate from sump to sump. Such is not much of an issue if the same oil is used in all sumps. Moreover, the 134D performs much better in cold temperature than does the 90W.

In order to get most of the water out of the sumps, you should pour a pint of so of dry gas into each sump and operate the tractor at least long enough to get the oil in all sumps up to operating temperature before draining. I like to allow the sumps to drain for 24 hours or more in such situations.

Better yet, perform such operations in the summer when you are using the tractor regularly and ambient temperatures are higher. Leave the dry gas in the sumps for a couple of weeks or more and be sure to drain the sumps after a period of long use.

If your tractor has power steering, you can use the CNH 134D in the PS reservoir as well. Be CERTAIN to change the filter inside the PS reservoir.

Dean
 
Working from memory here: Hydraulics, 8 quarts; transmission, 8.5 quarts, rear axle, 11.5 quarts.

Note: Both transmission and rear axle have level plugs. The hydraulic sump has a dip stick.

Dean
 
Minorg64,
I uploaded my operator's manual to the Tractor club site for N tractors. This web site does not allow me to include a direct link. It gives the amount and the fill and check locations. I would also recommend you get the IT repair manual.
Keith
a175321.jpg
 
That Hyds sump with emulsified oil, drain it,replace plug, dump in 1 gal diesel, 2 qts ATF, and 2-3 pints 90% rubbing alcohol. Take a test drive around the yard for that to slush and circulate. I'd try to cycle the 3pt in case it has a stuck unload valve.

Then drain and refil with good oil
 
Thanks for the suggestion. I will try that. The 3pt hitch will not move at all.
An earlier post said that I would have to bleed the hyd pump. Do you know what the process is for that
 
If it needs bleeding, it is usually suction side orings on the external plumbing, if you are living right, or next would be shaft seal.

In any case on the top front of the pump is a pipe plug, loosen it and start up, if it starts puking oil. It's primed, if no oil even with plug removed, set to idle and use a rubber tipped blow gun and pull dipstick and put a few(5?) psi onto the dipstick port to see if it primes. Note, if you are in freezing temps, an ice plug could have formed, or worse, water in the Hyds leads to perforated lines, and they run thru the trans innards
 
tractor is running ok. Finally got all the wiring issues resolved. Hydraulics still not working though
 

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