Texasmark1
Well-known Member
As I mentioned in an earlier post, I got one for my tractor. Spent the last couple of days installing it; didn't take that long in working time but calendar time it did with other priorities.
Will walk you through the pictures. As someone had posted on here earler, his pump gear was cut the opposite direction as was his tractor gear. Mine worked just fine. In mounting the pump, a seamless process other than the oring gasket supplied didn't fit the pump so I just used the old one that was used on the blocking plate covering the hole. Cleaned up the groves and gasket and worked fine.
The main problem I had was that the Woodruff keys on the tractor were wider than the slot in the steering arm. Initially I ground down the key to fit which made it slop in the king pin, but realized later I didn't need it. In retrospect, the arm fits the pin tight enough on it's own but with the locking bolt, you don't even need the key. just use the slot in the pin to align the cutout in the arm and you are good to go. However, there is a slot cut in the pin where the bolt goes through to lock it in place and once you position the arm correctly, so that you can slide the bolt through, it can't turn anyway as the bolt slot in the pin won't let it.
I greased up the wedges on my tie rod wedges for easier and on the tie rod parts, I greased them up good also so later if I had to pull any parts it's make the job easier.
Pay attention to the comment about fill the reservoir to about an inch from the top before you crank up and after you have run the system through several complete L-R lock to lock movements, refill it. I left about 1" for expansion on the refill.....used the multipurpose hyd trans fluid readily available on today's market.
The steering arms are too tight to fit over the king pins so I drove a punch into the slot till the opening fit the kingpin. No big deal but a long punch with a slow taper works best by staying put while you drive the arm onto the pin. Be careful that you slant the punch to the outside so that you don't damage your rubber water seal that sits around the pin and at the bottom of the arm. I bought new for the upgrade.
Nothing stellar here. I installed the pump, cylinder and the reservoir then loosely connected to steering box arm to allow me to do a dry then wet run before working the front kingpin spindle part. Jacking the front of the tractor up when you get ready for that part helps ease the alignment part of those steps.
This is the (obvious) top view showing where the control cylinder rear connection adapts to the FEL block on the tranny housing casting. Obviously it's good to chase the threads on the FEL block and add some lube.
Notice the spacers (part of the kit) between the adapter block and the frame and also when you get it all installed, the rear hole in the adapter block is slotted and you want it all the way up on the rear end of the block. This allows better alignment of the control cylinder to the rest of the system and the fittings on the rear outside side of that cylinder to clear the drive arm coming from the steering box arm when making a tight left hand turn.
Just a shot of the right side.
The reservoir canister easily mounts under the left front valve cover mounting screw. Mine worked best with the canister pushed back as far as it will easily go given the interference of the bracket and the valve cover.
The hoses that are supplied with the kit are the right length. Don't cut to fit as they are already pre cut to the right dimension. I used a piece of wire attached to the muffler inlet pipe to suspend the tach cable half way between the reservoir and muffler to prevent vibration from wearing a groove in both the reservoir and the cable.
On the canister hoses, I used tie wraps to route them and prevent chafing. Keep in mind that as the piston extends on the control cylinder, the hoses will work back and forth so adequate slop has to be allowed.
This is just a routing shot to give you an idea as to how I routed my canister hoses.
As was previously stated on this site, the direction are spartan, really spartan. That's why I went to the trouble to do this post.
I looked at a lot of sellers and it appears that the Turkish unit is what everybody sells. Difference is price and service. My best deal was Amazon and the Amazon unit I selected was the one that says it's Ford/New Holland. Well so it says, but it's just like the rest of them.
Mine came via UPS (some potential suppliers wanted to ship it freight and charge $80 for S&H) with no shipping handling and cost was $598....best deal around and service was really fast. I think it was 2, maybe 3 days from order date. The Amazon warranty was like this. If you don't like it for any reason return it for a full refund. I like that and have had really good service from the site.
How does it perform? Outstanding from idle to PTO rpms; plenty of pump volume. I got it specifically for when I am lining up, looking over my shoulder, with implements. This and my Pat's quick connectors I recently added to this tractor ought to really take the work out of the job.
If you have been thinking about the subject, here is my input and I am thrilled.
Mark
Will walk you through the pictures. As someone had posted on here earler, his pump gear was cut the opposite direction as was his tractor gear. Mine worked just fine. In mounting the pump, a seamless process other than the oring gasket supplied didn't fit the pump so I just used the old one that was used on the blocking plate covering the hole. Cleaned up the groves and gasket and worked fine.
The main problem I had was that the Woodruff keys on the tractor were wider than the slot in the steering arm. Initially I ground down the key to fit which made it slop in the king pin, but realized later I didn't need it. In retrospect, the arm fits the pin tight enough on it's own but with the locking bolt, you don't even need the key. just use the slot in the pin to align the cutout in the arm and you are good to go. However, there is a slot cut in the pin where the bolt goes through to lock it in place and once you position the arm correctly, so that you can slide the bolt through, it can't turn anyway as the bolt slot in the pin won't let it.
I greased up the wedges on my tie rod wedges for easier and on the tie rod parts, I greased them up good also so later if I had to pull any parts it's make the job easier.
Pay attention to the comment about fill the reservoir to about an inch from the top before you crank up and after you have run the system through several complete L-R lock to lock movements, refill it. I left about 1" for expansion on the refill.....used the multipurpose hyd trans fluid readily available on today's market.
The steering arms are too tight to fit over the king pins so I drove a punch into the slot till the opening fit the kingpin. No big deal but a long punch with a slow taper works best by staying put while you drive the arm onto the pin. Be careful that you slant the punch to the outside so that you don't damage your rubber water seal that sits around the pin and at the bottom of the arm. I bought new for the upgrade.
Nothing stellar here. I installed the pump, cylinder and the reservoir then loosely connected to steering box arm to allow me to do a dry then wet run before working the front kingpin spindle part. Jacking the front of the tractor up when you get ready for that part helps ease the alignment part of those steps.
This is the (obvious) top view showing where the control cylinder rear connection adapts to the FEL block on the tranny housing casting. Obviously it's good to chase the threads on the FEL block and add some lube.
Notice the spacers (part of the kit) between the adapter block and the frame and also when you get it all installed, the rear hole in the adapter block is slotted and you want it all the way up on the rear end of the block. This allows better alignment of the control cylinder to the rest of the system and the fittings on the rear outside side of that cylinder to clear the drive arm coming from the steering box arm when making a tight left hand turn.
Just a shot of the right side.
The reservoir canister easily mounts under the left front valve cover mounting screw. Mine worked best with the canister pushed back as far as it will easily go given the interference of the bracket and the valve cover.
The hoses that are supplied with the kit are the right length. Don't cut to fit as they are already pre cut to the right dimension. I used a piece of wire attached to the muffler inlet pipe to suspend the tach cable half way between the reservoir and muffler to prevent vibration from wearing a groove in both the reservoir and the cable.
On the canister hoses, I used tie wraps to route them and prevent chafing. Keep in mind that as the piston extends on the control cylinder, the hoses will work back and forth so adequate slop has to be allowed.
This is just a routing shot to give you an idea as to how I routed my canister hoses.
As was previously stated on this site, the direction are spartan, really spartan. That's why I went to the trouble to do this post.
I looked at a lot of sellers and it appears that the Turkish unit is what everybody sells. Difference is price and service. My best deal was Amazon and the Amazon unit I selected was the one that says it's Ford/New Holland. Well so it says, but it's just like the rest of them.
Mine came via UPS (some potential suppliers wanted to ship it freight and charge $80 for S&H) with no shipping handling and cost was $598....best deal around and service was really fast. I think it was 2, maybe 3 days from order date. The Amazon warranty was like this. If you don't like it for any reason return it for a full refund. I like that and have had really good service from the site.
How does it perform? Outstanding from idle to PTO rpms; plenty of pump volume. I got it specifically for when I am lining up, looking over my shoulder, with implements. This and my Pat's quick connectors I recently added to this tractor ought to really take the work out of the job.
If you have been thinking about the subject, here is my input and I am thrilled.
Mark
