ford tw-35 3 point seals

Well, I can't get the outer splined shaft out. Doesn't anyone have pictures of how to do it? I have a manual on the way, but am busy this weekend, so I would like to get it going.
 
As I said, you won't be doing the LH side anytime soon.
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Pretty much. However, that shaft doesn't just come right out. It's attached to linkage inside the rear axle housing. How would you like to pull the cab and then the 3-point lift cover just to replace a $5 o-ring?
 
As I said earlier, it involves removing the cab, 3 point lift cover, and possibly even the finals and rear diff. Are you up for that?

Here's another thing you need to know - I've never done it myself, because I've never found a customer willing to have me go through all that work to fix an occasional drip. They figure hydraulic fluid is cheap by comparison.

Wait until you get the repair manual, and then study up on it. I suspect you'll be willing to live with the leak also. The parts blowup really tells you most of what you need to know. That shaft is keyed internally.
 
you don't have to pull the cab. just unbolt supports from the axle and jack it up about 3 inches. then make a flat plate that will bolt to the top of the lift, attach this to an automotive type engine hoist. you'll need to remove the floor plate to access the bolts on the front of the lift. then just remove hydraulic lines and linkages. the lift will then come out. I have one off a 9700 right now repairing the worn out draft linkage. as for the seals on the torsion bar: as bern said the right side is easy. the left side you are supposed to remove the shaft. however once the right side is off you can slide the shaft to the left remove the old washer and oring, then stretch and new oring (wont be able to install the washer this way) over the left side hanger. its worth a try before removing the lift it works id say 75 percent of the time.
 
You're right about the cab. In fact, I have done it that way also on a newer TW. However, on an older one with the open center valves, it's a 50/50 toss up when you consider how much extra work it is to leave it on. With the proper overhead hoist, those cabs come off rather easily.

As for stretching a new o-ring over the arm, that's a neat sounding trick if it actually works.
 

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