Re: Ford 960 - Was given to me by a friend

There are a lot of wiring diagrams on the internet.

If your tractor has the correct carb on it now,
allow me to suggest that the m/s carb thats on it
now is the best choice for it. I would not junk an
original carb unless it is shattered.

I am not sure what else you did to the carb
besides replacing the float and needle, but
generally a rebuild takes 48 hours and works
miracles. Completely disassemble, soak, rinse,
chase every passage with monofilament fishing
lines several times, blow out every passage with
compressed air. You may need to descale the
bowl a little. Often condensation causes some
rust there, especially with gas with ethanol in it.

Don't junk it. If you do, send it to me :)
 
field on reg to field on genny

arm on reg to arm on genny

ground on reg to ground on genny ( redundant )

bat on reg to one side of ammeter ( many are post style now, not loop ). other side of ammeter to battery hot.

wire from vreg side of ammeter is what feeds key switch, lamps, etc. IE. all loads on the vreg side of the ammeter. ONLY the battery on the other side of the ammeter. this preserves your net charge / discharge setup.
 
how about some more background?

have you checked for stuck open intakes?

when you run the starter is the crank pulley spinning?

is the tach drive/hydro pump nose turning?

if yes to both of those, then the crank and cam are spinning.

Does the rotor spin as you crank her over?

have you compression tested her?
 
Installed new 6V batt, new 6V coil, dist cap, rotor, points, condenser (properly gapped) and new pluggs with new copper wires.

Wired as per:

field on reg to field on genny

arm on reg to arm on genny

ground on reg to ground on genny ( redundant )

bat on reg to one side of ammeter. Other side of ammeter to battery hot.

Wire from vreg side of ammeter is what feeds key switch, lamps, etc. IE.

Was running on starter fluid. Took carb off and apart soaked for 48 hours. Cleaned out all orifices with wire. New gaskets, made sure float valve was not sticking.

Put back on tractor and batt dead. Tried to pull start nothing not even a sputter.

Tach show rpm when trying to pull start. Oil press guage shows pressure when trying to pull start.

During pull start oil blew back through breather and a few seconds later engine stopped spinning and tractor started to free wheel with tranny in 5th gear.

Do not have the tools to test compression. Batt dead so could not spin with starter but was spinning before batt died.

Have two other units that need attention so this one may sit until I find time/resources to rebuild, possible sale to someone that wants to take on this project or part it out.

Has decent rubber all the way around, good not rusted power adjust rear wheels. Hydraulics (no idea if they work) and 3 point. One thing we did notice while towing is that there is some slop in the steering and the front tires will wobble.

As this tractor belonged to a friends deceased father-n-law neither of us have any history on it.
 
If the batteryu is slap dead, it's won't start even with pull starting, ignition runs on electrons.. if the battery has no electrons, no ignition.

You didn't perhaps try to pullstart it in reverse did you?

Now you say the rear end rolls, with tranny in gear, and engine is not turning.

that means that something like pinion or ring gear or coupler tube let go.. or input shaft or clutch let go.

check the coupler tube first. If rear wheels move but engine doesnt, start looking up the line... if coupler tube is good from pinion to trans, see if trans has any movement, etc, etc. Also.. these 5spds, if they are worn, the trans selector can pop out of gear even leaving the lever a bit looking like still fore or aft. so make sure she simply didn't kick out of gear.

if this was a 4spd I'd say look to see if it had an aux trans that popped to neutral., etc.
 
(quoted from post at 11:20:18 05/27/15) If the batteryu is slap dead, it's won't start even with pull starting, ignition runs on electrons.. if the battery has no electrons, no ignition.

You didn't perhaps try to pullstart it in reverse did you?

Now you say the rear end rolls, with tranny in gear, and engine is not turning.

that means that something like pinion or ring gear or coupler tube let go.. or input shaft or clutch let go.

check the coupler tube first. If rear wheels move but engine doesnt, start looking up the line... if coupler tube is good from pinion to trans, see if trans has any movement, etc, etc. Also.. these 5spds, if they are worn, the trans selector can pop out of gear even leaving the lever a bit looking like still fore or aft. so make sure she simply didn't kick out of gear.

if this was a 4spd I'd say look to see if it had an aux trans that popped to neutral., etc.

5 speed and I was holding it in 5th gear. We had charged the batt to the 5 volt mark before attempting the pull start.
 
a 6v lead acid battery nominally sets at 6.3vdc One that has just hit 5vdc on a charge after depletion is at a whopping 10% charge!

Yes.. you read that correct!

Now, on to the real issue.

what is turning, and what is not turning.

if coupler and pinion is not turning, but rear wheels are.. that is axle.. etc..
 
(quoted from post at 12:05:08 05/27/15) a 6v lead acid battery nominally sets at 6.3vdc One that has just hit 5vdc on a charge after depletion is at a whopping 10% charge!

Yes.. you read that correct!

Now, on to the real issue.

what is turning, and what is not turning.

if coupler and pinion is not turning, but rear wheels are.. that is axle.. etc..

Rear wheels were turning and you could feel the trans turning. The engine suddenly stopped.
 

William post where you are located. Someone here will,probably be thrilled to give you more than you could get for parting it out.
 

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