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861 powermaster hydraulics

J

jt4541

Member
The 3 point lift is not working on my 1958 powermaster. I am gonna take the lift cover off and take a look at the unloading valve. Also i think there maybe a little water in the hydraulic system too. What should i do while i have the cover off as far as the water goes? Or just change the fluid? Does the pump need primed after having the lift cover off? Thanks
 
If you think you have water in the fluid, I would change it with fresh UTF.

Before you take off the top cover, what problems are you having. If the lift is not working at all, I would try to prime the pump first. If you have some lift, but with issues, post back with what you see. If you have some lift, but it only comes up part way, let us know. We can help troubleshoot before you start turning wrenches.

If you take the top cover off, I would do at least the following.

1. Oil change
2. Replace the cam follower pin.
3. Remove the unloader valve, clean, and install new o-ring.
4. Replace the piston o-ring and back up washer.
5. Adjust the linkage according to the I&T manual.
6. Of course, I would clean and inspect everything,

Let us know how you make out.

And yes, what ever you do, prime that pump.
 
I would check the following.

1. Loss of pump prime. I would check this first. Do you know how to do this?
2. Broken or severely worn cam follower pin.
3. Stuck unloader valve.
4. Something broken or bent on the linkage system.

It will take pulling the top cover to check 2, 3, and 4. If you do that, change the piston o-ring, back-up washer and check the linkage adjustment.

Keep us posted.
 
i feel confident about doing all 4. i have a
reprint of the original ford manual and the
it 20. im headed to lowes now to get a
fitting and some tubing to check the prime.
 
Do you have a copy of the I&T manual for the 801? It has a nice adjustment procedure for the top cover that used easily made gauge blocks. The Ford manual has a method that uses Nuday fixtures that are no longer available. Also, fellow YT member Zane Sherman sells a really nice adjustment package for the 800/801. I would check him out too.

Good luck with the bleeding.
 
yes i have the I & T for the 801. Thanks for the info. i will check on that adjusting kit. i had a question...the control lever doesnt feel like it is even attached to anything when moving it. does that info help in diagnosing the problem?
 
You should feel some resistance when you move the touch control arm but it not too high. It often depends on how tight the touch control is adjusted by the nut on hub. It almost seems like something might be disconnected.

You could pull the round PTO lever cover off the left side and look inside. As you move the touch control lever, you should see the control valve move in and out.

One more thing to try. Are you in position control? Have you tried to cycle between position and draft control. Its worth a quick check. Make sure you return to position control.
 
yes..in position control. ive tried it both ways. i took the pto cover off and the control valve is moving in and out about 3/4" when using touch control lever
 
The travel on the control valve sounds right, so that is good news. Your friction washer on the touch control lever hub may be shot or out of adjustment. Its an easy fix if you can get the hub off, often they are frozen in place. There are aftermarket replacements available if you need to cut it off.

I think you are right about the bleeder plug. I'm trusting my memory, but I think it is a 1/4" pipe plug with a 5/16" hex socket. Just use an Allen wrench to remove it. Just to make sure, the bleeder plug is the plug on the top of the pump toward the front of the tractor.
 
yes..on top of the pump..front right side of
the tractor..i got a 1/4" fitting and it was
to small..it must be a 5/16". I cant find
that size at lowes. looks like i may have to
order online somewhere. thanks a bunch for
the help
 
Strange, I got my fittings at Lowes. Did you try a 3/8" NPT fitting.

You can bleed the pump just by loosening the plug and cranking the tractor over. Keep the plug tight, crank it over with ignition off and look for oil. Once you get oil, crank until bubbles stop.

Use a catch pan and lots of rags.

Worth a try.
 
im gonna try the 3/8. if that doesnt work il
try the other way. il let you know when i
try it tomorrow
 
I do believe it was 3/8, I got some Heavy Stainless Steel nipples and elbows and put a high pressure 3/8 valve on mine, I seem to have to bleed it if I don't used the tractor for a few months, and its easy to leave that hooked up, just put a catch pan below it, and start it up, and crack the valve until I get a good stream of fluid. Not sure where the air comes from, I don't seem to have any leaks anywhere, probably time to rebuild the pump.
 
The friction disc my be missing or way out of
adjustment.

If you have to take the aluminum disc off that
the handle attaches to take the nut off the
control shaft and remove the two 7/16 hex bolts
from the handle and use a propane torch or
something hotter around the hub of the disc. If
it sharts to show bubbles or pimples stop
heating it and you can carefully pry off the
disc hub with two screwdrivers. One on each
side. You will never get it off with out heat.
It will break.

Zane
 
thanks for the help. i got a 3/8 barb
fitting and some clear hose im gonna try. i
never even thought about your way
 
primed the pump. it was a 3/8" fitting. the
lift is working , but seems slow to respond
to the touch control lever and maybe not
lifting as high as it should. thanks for the
help. im gonna take the lift cover off when
the weather warms and check it out
 
it was a 3/8" fitting. i got the pump primed
and the hydraulics are working. kinda slow
to respond to the control lever and maybe
not lifting as high as it should.
 
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