New to me Ford 3910 with Transmission Issue. Help!

I recently purchased a 1987 Ford 3910 and noticed that about 1/2 the time its very difficult changing gears as its like the synchronizing part is not working correctly. For example if I try to go from 2nd to 4th just as I stop I have to wait a long time before it will go in or try to slowly force it then it will go. Any ideas of what the issue is? By the way, sometimes it goes right in no problem. I have several of these tractors but this is the only one causing this issue. Thanks
 
Clutch issue , May be pilot bearing locking up, may need clutch pedal adjustment Does it have a lot of free play in the clutch pedal?, may need replacing.
 
(quoted from post at 16:59:51 02/27/15) Clutch issue , May be pilot bearing locking up, may need clutch pedal adjustment Does it have a lot of free play in the clutch pedal?, may need replacing.

No free play seems normal and actually clutch feels pretty normal. One thing I did notice is that it engages pretty quick. You have to let out slow or it will make tractor jump a bit.
 
If I had to wager a guess you have a oil soaked clutch... Oil soaked clutches tend to grab quickly and stick hindering a complete release unless you nudge it with a slit load...

Free play in the clutch pedal has little to do with proper clutch adjustment... Its a term generally used but misunderstood by wanna be internet mechanics...
 

Ok so what causes a oil soaked clutch? Also this tractor has low hours and has not ran much in years. I drained all fuel and other fluids before running it (except loading on trailer). Could that be part of the issue?
 

What fluid did you put back in'er...
Are you trying to shift on the fly

The trans is not synchronized At a stand sill some times its easier to slip it in another gear momentary then it will shift to the gear you wanna go in...

Shifting on the fly is not commended it can be done but even the best will scrape a gear every now and again... If 4th is what you want put it in 4th and go...

Have you tried to apply the PTO will it apply are does it have a hard time applying also...
 

We put back in the NH OEM hydraulic fluid I use for all my 10 series. Same oil that's used for the hydraulics, steering etc. I will check level again to confirm its full. Not moving just trying to engage it at stand still. Once I get it in and drive it a bit it works for time or two then doesn't work again. Will try PTO test next time also. Very strange as this is the only one I've seen do this. I have seen some that stick in gear. But this one comes out easy just hard to get in gear sometimes. It's like your moving at full speed and trying to shift into a gear. Same feeling exactly.
 
(quoted from post at 00:04:58 02/28/15)
Ok so what causes a oil soaked clutch?

The inside of the bell housing where the clutch is located is normally dry. Oil can leak into the bell housing when either the front transmission seal is leaking or the rear main seal or possibly a frost plug on the engine is leaking. There is a small hole on the bottom of the bell housing that is there to allow any oil that gets into the bell housing to have a place to drip out. That hole should have a cotter pin in it that is bent so it can't get dislodged from the hole but is loose enough to rattle around from the vibrations of the tractor so it will keep any dirt and/or mud from clogging the hole. When that hole gets clogged, any oil that makes its way into the bell housing has nowhere to go and so it builds up and eventually reaches a level that brings it into contact with the clutch.
 


Ok thank you Sean. I will check this next week. Tractor is really tight, cranks instantly in freezing weather so feel very good about it except for this issue. Hopefully not much to resolve.
 

ok could be rusty clutch...Not used much, swollen, full of moisture... SO.. using it a lot will simply dry it out, break it free, and it will loosen up on its own.... if your lucky. Should have 1.5 inch of play in pedal before you feel it engage the throwout bearing. Its common where lot of rain and little use. The plate can actually rust to the flywheel in some cases...

So... use it a bunch and see what happens... as others said,,, not syncronized.. so the tractor must be a full stop or gears will grind,,, sometimes the input shaft will still be spinning even though you have stopped so its difficult to shift.
 
"Free play in the clutch pedal has little to do with proper clutch adjustment... Its a term generally used but misunderstood by wanna be internet mechanics... "


I could not disagree with you more. Free play in the clutch pedal has everything to do with proper clutch adjustment, and more importantly, operation. If you have too little, the clutch will soon be slipping. Too much, and the clutch might not release fully.
 
Yes.. its important...

It will set the clutch in the correct position so we know its not cranked all the way one way or the other. It will tell me its being pushed in far enough to release the plate.. Trying to explain to a newbie where it SHOULD BE in simple terms.

I have had many tractors come in where the adjustments were at extremes and on one the 7000 clutch slipped, and on the other it would not release. Ford 3000s are the worst when it comes to clutch jacking. Some one messing with both the the stop bolt on the arm and then trys to compensate with the rod.. Sometimes the stop bolt is missing on the 3000 and really screws up the works. So checking the basics is a good place to start. See lots of rusted up plates that simply need exercise to clean them up. sometimes slipping them a bit will clean off all the crud.. but you dont normally what to slip a disc. A hot dry day of work is best in most cases, but it cold and raining down here all week. (CABIN FEVER) grrrrrrrr!

Hey, I did go out and paint the hood for the 4000 that came in with the hood missing Yesterday.. Will see how long it takes to dry in the wet weather. But who's in a hurry. Battery was stone dead, after I put a genny and reg on it. The genny had a shorted field and it took 2 regs to find a good one, due to Indian Engineering. So I need to relook to see if its a dead cell or other problems.. It does charge above and idle so I though I had it fixed. Need to make sure the cut out relay is working or it just a crap battery. Maybe I will put on a raincoat and go to the shop today and check on it. Got two more tractors that need to be gone threw and cleaned up.. Usually fix all the little stuff and paint if needed. Both are in pretty good mechanical shape... the 7700 w loader is down to paint, and the 6640 needs paint, electrical, and gauges fixed. I wanted to keep the ts100 but it flew out of here in a couple of days.. Oh well the cobbler's kids have the worst shoes.
 
(quoted from post at 06:46:55 02/28/15)
(quoted from post at 00:04:58 02/28/15)
Ok so what causes a oil soaked clutch?

The inside of the bell housing where the clutch is located is normally dry. Oil can leak into the bell housing when either the front transmission seal is leaking or the rear main seal or possibly a frost plug on the engine is leaking. There is a small hole on the bottom of the bell housing that is there to allow any oil that gets into the bell housing to have a place to drip out. That hole should have a cotter pin in it that is bent so it can't get dislodged from the hole but is loose enough to rattle around from the vibrations of the tractor so it will keep any dirt and/or mud from clogging the hole. When that hole gets clogged, any oil that makes its way into the bell housing has nowhere to go and so it builds up and eventually reaches a level that brings it into contact with the clutch.

Ok so the hole has the cotter pin and I jiggled it around some but nothing came out. Pto works fine and tranny oil is only slightly low but on line. Can't drive it yet as now I have a rear flat (dang it) so must fix it first then try to drive it some. Will post back later once it use it a bit.
 

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