3000 hydraulic problem

ptfarmer

Well-known Member
Location
San Antonio, Tx
Working on a 1967 Ford 3000 that has a hydraulic problem. It only does this when you start the tractor, so when you start the tractor the hydraulics will not work at idle unless you rev the engine first, after that it works fine even at an idle with no problems. Went through all the valves (does not have any remotes), rebuilt the top cover, checked the linkage, and adjustments. The hydraulic pump was changed out with a known good pump. I'm at my whits end with this thing, anyone have any ideas?
 
Sounds like a very small air leak. My guess would be either the pickup tube has some pinholes from rust or the o-ring on the pickup tube needs replacing.
 
Pickup tube is under oil. I have changed my filters, not one of Henry's better ideas. I had a heck of a job just removing the pickup tube because of space limitations.
 
The pickup tube isn't rusty inside, or out. The seals for the pickup tube, as with all the others are all new. The pickup screen "filter", and everything having to do with the hydraulics have been throughly cleaned, any suspect parts replaced, and the hydraulic fluid is up to the full check plugs. It doesn't matter how long it sits with the engine off (5 seconds, 5 days, etc) you have to give it a quick rev after you start it for the hydraulics to work. Other than that it works perfect.
 
(quoted from post at 00:08:52 02/02/15) Working on a 1967 Ford 3000 that has a hydraulic problem. It only does this when you start the tractor, so when you start the tractor the hydraulics will not work at idle unless you rev the engine first, after that it works fine even at an idle with no problems. Went through all the valves (does not have any remotes), rebuilt the top cover, checked the linkage, and adjustments. The hydraulic pump was changed out with a known good pump. I'm at my whits end with this thing, anyone have any ideas?

To be honest, I wish my 3000 hydraulics worked that well. I would be happy to rev the engine a little to get it working. It can take 1/2 hour or more of running before mine starts to work. I think I am getting a lot of air into the system from somewhere, but can't figure out where.
 
(quoted from post at 16:05:16 02/02/15) Unloading valve O ring.

Use no substitues.

Only Ford/

Zane


Used all Ford parts, we have a old dealer close by us that used to be a Ford tractor dealer where we get Ford parts from (they still even work on Fords), they sell Kubota's now.
 
(quoted from post at 16:55:46 02/02/15) To be honest, I wish my 3000 hydraulics worked that well. I would be happy to rev the engine a little to get it working. It can take 1/2 hour or more of running before mine starts to work. I think I am getting a lot of air into the system from somewhere, but can't figure out where.




That's how this one was.
 
Update: Got it figured out, since the tach doesn't work we got a hand held tach where you put a piece of reflective tape on the fan belt. The engine was idling at 350 rpms! (it's a diesel), bumped the idle up to 850 rpms, no more having to give it a quick rev to get the hydraulics working after starting.
 
(quoted from post at 00:51:43 02/15/15) Update: Got it figured out, since the tach doesn't work we got a hand held tach where you put a piece of reflective tape on the fan belt. The engine was idling at 350 rpms! (it's a diesel), bumped the idle up to 850 rpms, no more having to give it a quick rev to get the hydraulics working after starting.
hat is the calculation needed to obtain engine rpm from the rate that a tape passes a sensor? No going to be 1 to 1 unless the belt is tightly wrapped around ONLY the crank pulley & nothing else.
 
The hand held tach is pretty neat, to get rpm's off a v-belt you enter in the length of the belt, it will also give you inches, and feet per minute of a belt.
 
Length of the belt alone can't tell you enough to calculate the rpm's. You would also need a measurement for the crankshaft pulley, either the diameter or the circumference, as with one you can calculate the other.
 

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