Here is a tip and a thank you

Norm43

Member
I have been posting a lot here lately and the results have been fantastic for me. I've learned a lot from the many contributors that have provided answers and to them I say Thank You!

One of my quandaries was Diesel Fuel into the crankcase and one some of you suggested it would be a couple of umbrella seals on the shaft. So they are over $12 each at New Holland but I found a source that will sell them for $4.20 each plus a small shipping charge. I ordered some and they came today. They are Stanadyne part number 10453 and came in a Stanadyne bag so I think they are authentic OEM parts. The source is Southeast Power Systems in Daytona Beach, FL. 888-228-6708 in case anyone happens to need parts. They also have complete rebuild kits for less than $30.00.

Now, does anyone have a picture or drawing of where these go? Are they below the pump or up in the bottom of the pump? I haven't pulled my pump yet and it may be obvious when I do. I plan on doing that tomorrow.

Thanks again for all of your assistance and knowledge. ... Norm43
 
below is a address which you should be able to copy and paste. Its a 317 page manual on stanadyne roosa master pump. not sure what pump you have but you will at least get the idea of where the umbrella seals are and a better understanding of the injector pump. I used it several years ago to rebuild mine on a small JD crawler

http://nnalert/doc/74914711/John-Deere-Roosa-Master-Injector-Pump-Manual-SM-2045
 
(quoted from post at 22:21:19 02/09/15)

You'll need to pull the pump. Then you'll need to pull the driveshaft out of the pump. Pay attention to the orientation of the pump and shaft to the engine, as well as the shaft to the pump. Don't rotate it, in other words. Also, be extremely careful not to roll the upper seal upon shaft installation.

[b:ca3f61b7bb][color=red:ca3f61b7bb]Now, for a bit of unsolicited advice[/color:ca3f61b7bb]:[/b:ca3f61b7bb] I'd not do this without cleaning the pump and replacing the governor retaining ring [b:ca3f61b7bb]UNLESS[/b:ca3f61b7bb] you are absolutely certain this has been done in very recent past! This latter operation will require complete teardown of the pump.
 
(reply to post at 04:21:19 02/10/15)

Remove the small timing window cover that is held on to the pump with 2 screws and rotate the crankshaft until the 2 marks line up. Then remove the timing cover *if it's installed* from the right rear corner of the engine and see if the flywheel timing marks are lined up at 23* BTC. Only after the timing marks are lined up should you remove the pump from the engine.
 
Thanks for the advice Larry. What does cleaning intail? And is
it advisable for me to change the governor ring myself. I have
fair mechanical skills but certianly don't want to get in over my
head.
 
You need to clean and remove all dirt/grease from the pump, engine and injector lines before you remove the pump. You don't want any small chucks to get in the system when you put it back together.
 

I usually like to soak 'em in carb cleaner for a few hours, wash 'em wiith a nozzle on a garden hose and blow 'em dry. A critical eye for detail and watchfulness over all the small parts is a must.

As I've mentioned somewhere here recently, the only special tools you might need are a Bristol bit or equivalent and a good external snap ring plier.
 

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