Turbo Installation

jsp5755

Member
Installing rebuilt turbocharger on 7000. My question is this....since the oil line have been removed and will be empty....any special thing I need to do upon starting the engine back up for the first time????
 
Pump a few ounces of motor into the turbo bearing cavity if you can. Just let the motor idle for a minute or two before revvin' it.
 
Local Ford dealer's mechanic said to crank it over with the shut off switch pulled until the oil pressure light went out, or a little longer.
 
(quoted from post at 11:23:46 02/04/15) Local Ford dealer's mechanic said to crank it over with the shut off switch pulled until the oil pressure light went out, or a little longer.


X2 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Another turbo killer is not letting it sit idle for a while after working it hard.
 
Exactly what I was thinking! Spin it over with the fuel stop out until the light went out.
Also agree with making sure to cool it off when you run it hard.
I always thought it best to never idle these too low either. Around 1000 RPM is what I used. At low idle the oil pressure and flow rate is low. I wanted to cool it off and keep the flow rate up too!
A couple of times, I ran out of fuel when plowing. MAN was that a sickening sound to hear that turbo whine down and know that there was no oil coming in to cool it off!
Keith
 
The stop pulled thing makes sense and let it idle for a minute or two. Turbos don't spin very fast at an idle. The big killer of turbos is not letting them cool down before shut down. If shut down hot the oil flow stops and the hot turbo will fry the oil turning it to carbon pluging the oil passage usally on the drain side then the oil can't get out so it is pushed past the seals.
 
Hi
Do you know why the original turbo went south, That would be the first thing to do if you haven't found out already, before Just shoving a new one on. If a 7000 is the same as a 5000. it will just have an idiot light for warning. No actual oil pressure gauge.

I have heard oil lights referred to as the "it's seized" indicator. usually they come on just beforeor after the steering wheel hits you in the chest, if driving at speed and the crank locks due to no or low oil pressure/flow.

I would be checking oil pressure with a test gauge on re start. low pressure can cause bearing failure in turbo's before it shows in the crank or the light starts flicking at idle in some cases.

I saw this on a Rogator on my first day in a new job. They fitted a new turbo, I asked if the oil press was checked . Boss said nope. I kinda stated my comment here. He told me it wasn't my concern go away. 2 weeks later the driver phones in and says its locked solid in the field and won't start!. When the boss was done the first round of swearing.
I kinda said remember that oil pressure conversation!. That was the first warning, and somebody didn't listen when this was pointed out. Then the second swearing round started when he realised he could of saved the $15.000 motor cost that first day and rebuilt the original cheaper.

As others have said pre fill the inlet. I usually turn them lightly by hand and fill them again before installing the oil pipe.I turn the motor with the turbo off and get clean motor oil up the pressure pipe to. I do an oil and filter change at the same time, so it's got good oil in.
The turbo should have a data sheet with fitting instructions included. Do what it tells you if you have it.
The 3 common turbo failures are. 1 operator error ( starting, running,stopping),2 oil pressure/ engine maintenence, and 3 improper installation and run in procedure on new or reman units.
hope that helps you a bit more
Regards Robert
 

turbo return lines can be coked up.. Make sure the line is clean so the oil can return to the engine with NO restrictions or the turbo will use oil. Cheap oil will sludge up in the return line.
 

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