63 2000 134 gas front snout issue

I was using my 63 SOS as a low-budget log skidder dragging oak tops out into the field to turn them into firewood this weekend when I noticed the crank pulley was starting to wobble. Since I had to get this wood split Saturday I went ahead and ran the pto-powered splitter while keeping an eye on the issue. I never ran more than 1200 rpm but I did run it for about 3 hours straight powering the splitter. In that time I got a decent ooze of oil going but the wobble did not seem to get any worse. There is about a 1/4" play on the outer edge of the pulley.

This was an old VA DOT sickle mower that has the hub and shaft for the now-gone front-mounted pump still on it (I could not get the shaft out when I took the pump off a while back) so I am wondering if that unsupported, and slightly wobbly, shaft has taken its toll. Probably didn't help that the front pivot is worn enough that the shaft is now almost touching the top of the pivot bushing, and that I managed to get the front wheels off the ground several times while skidding.

Since this tractor is 150 miles away I need some "bench-racing" advice on what I might need to take back up there to work on it the next time I head that way.

Could it be as simple as the crank bolt backing out? How much do I have to dismantle to get the hub off so I can replace the probably original front seal? And if the bolster has to come off I might as well plan on replacing the pivot and bushing while I am in there, I presume.

Any guidance much appreciated.

The good thing is that we got a little over 2 cords of firewood skidded out, cut, and split and it did not self-destruct. My Dad is almost 78 and my tractor is older than me and I think I am more wore out than either of them after Saturday's activities.
 
Allowing the pulley to become loose is not good as the vibration/wobble wears the crankshaft as well as the pulley.

You will not know whether your crankshaft and/or pulley is serviceable until you replace the seal and retighten the pulley bolt.

Good luck.

Dean
 
The following series of videos (1-5) may be of help. It shows an individual correcting a wobbly pulley as a result of a loose round head slotted screw (item 2), used in place of the original crank bolt when the front pump was installed.
a181638.jpg

a181639.jpg

Working on the Ford 881 Part 1 5
 
Thanks! That is what I needed to see.

The question I have is if the internal tooth washer was in the correct place, as in it should be between the flat washer and the crank bolt head, not under the washer. The parts blowup 06A02 only shows a 5/8" flat washer and 5/8"-18 X 1-1/4" bolt on the snout but no lock washer. I presume the round slotted head is used for clearance inside the shaft drive flange.

Since my hydraulic sickle bar is no longer mounted on this tractor I may just dispense with the drive flange for now, provided I can get the shaft out of it and get it out of the way. I will have to adapt something to my slide hammer and see if I can get it to slide out after all these years.

Never know what you will find when you start getting into these old machines. I figure a good cleaning, replace the front seal, and some blue Loctite, provided everything snugs down tight and does not wobble any, and I should be back in business again.
 

If you have a groove worn where the seal runs on the pulley you can put a speedie sleeve on it.
 
I think you are right, the washer and lock washer are reversed.

The link below is the manual I used to install a loader I purchased a few years ago for my tractor. Page 12 has some information on how to tighten the special screw and how to gain additional clearance between the pulley and axle support if necessary.

In my case, the special screw was the one part which did not come with the loader. It was in such poor condition, I did not attempt to remove it from the seller's tractor. Instead, I used an angle grinder to remove about 1/8" off the head of my crank (pulley) bolt and it worked fine.

Also, even though my tractor has power steering, there was just enough clearance to install the splined hub assembly from below without separating the axle support from the engine.
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Ford Industrial Loader Models 19 97 and 19 105
 
I haven't found a speedi-sleeve listed specifically for the 134 gas 4-cylinder in my searching but they do make them for the 3-cylinder. Is it the same sleeve?

Anybody have dimensions for the hub OD and length needed for a sleeve? I figure I can cross to something automotive perhaps if I have dimensions.

For now it will be a get it tightened up and run it up there until I can get it back home and into the shop deal. If it still oozes and marks its territory after I get it tightened up then it will fit right in with my Dodge diesels and there "rust-proofed" undercarriages.
 
(quoted from post at 16:22:22 02/04/15) I haven't found a speedi-sleeve listed specifically for the 134 gas 4-cylinder in my searching but they do make them for the 3-cylinder. Is it the same sleeve?

Anybody have dimensions for the hub OD and length needed for a sleeve? I figure I can cross to something automotive perhaps if I have dimensions.

For now it will be a get it tightened up and run it up there until I can get it back home and into the shop deal. If it still oozes and marks its territory after I get it tightened up then it will fit right in with my Dodge diesels and there "rust-proofed" undercarriages.

When I needed a speedi-sleeve I got it from the machine shop.
 

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