Ford 3000 Gas: oil type feedback (transmission, axle)

kgracey

New User
Hey all,

Thank you for your prior help - tomorrow I get to spend a day with this tractor and I'm going to replace some or all of the oils. I'm not clear from the user manual (if I have the right one - not sure) for the 1975 3000 Tractor. First, I was told it was a '75 but the grill is a '65 - anyway, I'll verify by serial number tomorrow. But I'm not sure it matters much for the oil anyway. So, here's what the manual says:

Transmission: SAE20W/30 - really? Same thing that goes into the engine oil?

Rear Axle: "as manual transmission" meaning, the same thing as above? SAW 20W/30?

Power Steering? What should I use?

This tractor is in California, in a warm climate that just doesn't freeze. Normal temps are about 50-90F and this machine is used for mowing.

Any clarity on what oil types I should use - and how much - would be most appreciated!

Thanks!
mvphoto15468.jpg


mvphoto15469.jpg
 
In California I would use utf or the 80 weight if it has leaks. If you have seals that leak, the 80w would be less likely to escape. Utf is OK for the power steering too.
 
I would use a UTF that meets the Ford/New Holland M2C134D specification in everything except the engine crankcase. That's what you should be using in the rear axle/hydraulics, and there is always the risk of the seals between the rear end and the tranny leaking, so if they do it won't matter if you use the same fluid in both, but if you have different fluids in the 2 sumps then you can get cross-contamination. Plus it's easier to keep one kind of fluid on your shelf and there'll be less risk of accidentally topping off one of the sumps with the wrong kind.
 
Like said. UTF everywhere but the crankcase. I have a '62 4 cyl. 4000 RC and put it in the tranny, diffy, hydro's, ps and finals. No issues at all. For the steering gear, I popped in a zirk and pumped that full of plain old No. 2 grease. Leaky seal problem gone.
 
I agree with the others - use UTF meeting Ford 134D specs. You will need about 8 gallons to change both the tranny and rear end. It wont hurt to start the engine, crack the lines at the cylinders and puke all the oil out of your power steering and replace that with the same 134D oil. Add oil as you drain it to flush. You might want to replace the filter in your PS reservoir too.
Oil levels in the tranny/rear end are checked by means of check plugs. See photo.
Add oil till it runs out.
<font size="4" color="red">
Do Not</font> remove the slotted screw by the rear plug.

3000oilcheckplugs.jpg
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top