(quoted from post at 10:19:55 01/14/15) I'm building houses for 2 of my sisters and their families and we are going to have to put in a new drive (long) we'll likely be using crushed asphalt, I'm asking for suggestions to go along with a couple of ideas I have in mind, and a question on one idea, what are some thoughts of using a round cylinder (example 55gl drum) filed with cement built to tow behind a tractor,etc.
Thanks ahead for your response
I have asphalt millings down on my entire driveway. They were originally ground very fine. What the other guys are saying is all correct, but I'll add some observations of my own:
- The base is really important. In my case, I had #57 packed down super hard from 10 years worth of running over it.
- Make sure it drains properly. Don't allow water to stand in any place. If you do, it will eventually go through the millings and freeze, cracking it all up.
- I used my (then) Jubilee and blade and spread it a minimum of 4 to 5 inches thick. Then rented a vibrating roller for a day and went to town packing it. Final pack thickness was 2 to 3 inches thick. If I were to do it over again I'd spread it at least 6 inches thick to try to get 3-4 inches final. There are areas where I laid it down thicker like this and I think it looks better and shows no cracking. But IMO, the key to getting a real nice finish is the vibrating roller.
- The result from using the vibrating roller to pack it "looks" like an asphalt job. It's pretty wild. If you can, do it when the temperatures are hotter, as it helps with rebonding (versus in the middle of winter).
- I used a cheap garden sprayer and sprayed it down about 2 or 3 times with diesel fuel. That helps reactivate the binders. Spray once, then wait a day or two, then spray again. If you can stay off of it for a week or so, that helps. Otherwise, it will track up some.
- After a month or so of driving on it, you can coat it with coal-tar sealer, which will help keep it together also. I built a spray rig using a 275 gallon tote, a Harbor Freight 6.5hp engine, and a 99-dollar trash pump with some plumbing. That helps put it down fast. I recoat each year using this.
I am on year 3 with it and people think it's an asphalt job. They are shocked to hear that it is simple millings. Now, don't get me wrong, this is not the equivalent to a good, hot-asphalt job laid down by a pro. Cosmetics are not as perfect, and I don't think it's going to hold up as long as properly-maintained asphalt. But for the cost of it, it was a good value in my case. It's not for everybody.