64 Ford 4000 Rear Seal

Ok, I have a 1964 Ford 4000 Industrial SOS with the 172 ci.

Had to do the tractor split and replace the crankshaft as the rear main was grooved up.

At the point of putting it back together now, and I'm stuck.

I have tried 3 sets of the layered rawhide main bearing cap seals, with no luck. (2 were from CNH and one was from Tisco with my engine gasket set)

They either lose lamination or just break, and none of them want to fit into the grooves with the cap in place.

Several years ago I had replaced the rear main seal and got seals from the New Holland dealer that were rubber with a groove in the back to drive a soft metal pin through. These were a pain to do with the tractor together and the hyd. pump installed, but I was hoping to find them now that the engine is off and on a stand. However the dealer says that all of the side seals have been superceded to the rawhide ones.

I have tried soaking the rawhide overnight, have tried soaking it for just a second, and have tried it dry.

I guess I'm not holding my mouth right or something.... any help would be appreciated.

I have another set but they are $32 for the pair from the dealer as they sell them individually now.
 
Think I found them at NAPA of all places.

I know I've bought some parts from them before, just couldn't remember if the seals were it or not.

FPG BS61413

Is the part number for the Rear Main Seal Set which comes with the 2 piece rubber rear main and the side seals with the metal pins.

I hope, will find out for sure in a day or two. They have to order them in.
 
I replaced the rear seal in an 801 with the 172 ci several years
ago without splitting it, just pulled the pan and loosened the
mains on the crank. It had the rope seal but replaced it with
the neoprene seal. I rolled in the top after oiling it but I could
not get the side pieces to go in even after oiling them. I talked
with a mechanic at the dealership and he told me to coat them
lightly with silicone gasket sealer then push them in that was
how he did it, worked like a champ.
 

Ford Y-block engines (272,292,312) used the same seals on the sides of the rear main. There is now a product (RTV?) that you can inject into the grooves for the side seals. Perhaps you can find out more at the Y-Block website: www.y-blocksforever.com
 
(quoted from post at 11:19:52 01/13/15) Ok, I have a 1964 Ford 4000 Industrial SOS with the 172 ci.

Had to do the tractor split and replace the crankshaft as the rear main was grooved up.

At the point of putting it back together now, and I'm stuck.

I have tried 3 sets of the layered rawhide main bearing cap seals, with no luck. (2 were from CNH and one was from Tisco with my engine gasket set)

They either lose lamination or just break, and none of them want to fit into the grooves with the cap in place.



Several years ago I had replaced the rear main seal and got seals from the New Holland dealer that were rubber with a groove in the back to drive a soft metal pin through. These were a pain to do with the tractor together and the hyd. pump installed, but I was hoping to find them now that the engine is off and on a stand. However the dealer says that all of the side seals have been superceded to the rawhide ones.






I have tried soaking the rawhide overnight, have tried soaking it for just a second, and have tried it dry.

I guess I'm not holding my mouth right or something.... any help would be appreciated.

I have another set but they are $32 for the pair from the dealer as they sell them individually now.


I am not familiar witht the layered rawhide seal but I am familiar with the two piece neoprene with side wedges and pins. I had a hard time with the pins but on the third try I was finally satisfied and it has not leaked. Like Texas! Said there is now a set with RTV silicone and a long injection tip for getting it down in there that is supposed to work very well.
 
I have tried 3 sets of the [b:64768451f9]layered rawhide main bearing cap seals[/b:64768451f9], with no luck. (2 were from CNH and one was from Tisco with my engine gasket set)

I ran into the same thing while rebuilding, after a whole lot of trouble and searching I found out most people are just filling the holes up with sealant. I can't remember which kind now, it might have been the caulk type stuff you make the oil pan gasket with? I will try and find out. Anyway, there is no way that leather stuff they sell now swells enough to fill that gap.

Mine worked like a charm.

(Texas beat me to it!)
 
Should have the neoprene seals with the pins tomorrow from Napa, but if that doesn't work...

I will most definitely give the RTV a shot, starting to have a hell of a tally on wedge seals...
 
http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=801693&highlight=victor

http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=1046518&highlight=wedge

http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=903856&highlight=seal

http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=863521&highlight=seal

http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=838261&highlight=seal

A few links on what I have to say about it... I have since used the rubber side seals with the pin... I had to take them out a few times toget the damm pin in with out grab'N the rubber and even then had to apply RTV to'em to stop one side from leakin.

You can test them by spraying the out side of the seal with windex are soapy water (kids bubble maker works great) blow compressed air on the crankcase side of the seal :wink: I even go as far as to apply pressure the crankcase once I have it all buttoned up... :wink: [/url]
 
(quoted from post at 06:44:21 01/15/15) http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=801693&highlight=victor

http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=1046518&highlight=wedge

http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=903856&highlight=seal

http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=863521&highlight=seal

http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=838261&highlight=seal

A few links on what I have to say about it... I have since used the rubber side seals with the pin... I had to take them out a few times toget the damm pin in with out grab'N the rubber and even then had to apply RTV to'em to stop one side from leakin.

You can test them by spraying the out side of the seal with windex are soapy water (kids bubble maker works great) blow compressed air on the crankcase side of the seal :wink: I even go as far as to apply pressure the crankcase once I have it all buttoned up... :wink: [/url]


grabbing the rubber- exactly the problem that I had with them!
 
When I used them before, while the tractor was still together. I had replaced a rear main seal and then used the neoprene wedge seals with the pins. The problem I had then was the Hydraulic Pump Pipe that runs under the tractor, in hindsight I would have removed it.

My mistake I drove the pin on the left side of the cap in first and then got the one on the right, under the hyd pipe, all but 1" in and bent the pin because I couldn't tap it with the hammer straight on.

I am hoping that having the engine apart and on the stand that I can do this better.

I will make sure to lube up both the neoprene and pins to make sure though.

I have had zero luck with the layered rawhide seals from CNH or Tisco. I would have to trim them down and coat them with black RTV to even think about using them again.

.010 oversize doesn't sound like a lot, but it sure makes it so they don't want to fit in the grooves without breaking. And then if you dip them in oil and they swell even more....

Should have my FELPRO parts tonight, will let you all know how it goes.
 

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