1953 ford golden jubilee has no power to key (6volt)

chosen00

New User
good Morning!!

I have a 1953 jubilee that ran a week ago and now has no power to key. this is what I've done so far

1) replaced 6 volt battery
2) replaced coil, wires, points, condenser, spark plugs al437 gapped both points and spark plug .025 note wires in 1243 firing order.
3) replaced new safety foot starter, and key switch
4) replaced starter relay (solenoid)
5) voltage regulator
6) terminal block
7) replaced positive battery cable, negative battery cable, and new starter cable.

sorry for the lengthly post

I can get it to turn over jumping the solenoid but won't start.

Someone told me to set the flywheel to 8 degrees btdc on the compresstion stroke.
Please help if you have any idea what I'm missing Thank you!
 

Good morning, welcome to the forums. Your post implies that you have a meter or perhaps a test light that tells you that you have no voltage at the switch. Is this the case? Did it tell you that there was power to all of those other components that you replaced? It is best to not replace any elec. component unless you determine that it HAS votage but is not passing it through or functioning as it is supposed to.
 
Timing has nothing to do with whether the starter will turn or not.

It sounds like a bad wire or connector to me. You've replaced the two battery cables, but those large cables don't supply power directly to the key switch. There should be a wire from the key switch to each side of the terminal block. Have you measured for voltage at the terminal block? One side should always have power from the battery and the key switch, when everything is working properly will supply power to the other side, and that second side of the block is where the coil is connected, so if the key switch doesn't have power then the coil won't either unless you jumper that as well.

If you're sure there's no power to the key, then measure at the next spot back in the circuit, which would be the terminal block. If there's no power there, then the next spot is the "B" terminal on the voltage regulator and then the small wire at the starter relay (solenoid), but since jumpering the solenoid spins the starter you likely have power there already. Once you find a spot that has power, then the wire between that spot and the previous one that you tried is the most likely culprit.
 
Regarding power to key switch. Start probing at solenoid large terminal connected to battery. Then to ammeter, then to terminal block, through key switch, to coil, etc. i.e., simply follow along that path.
 
Thanks for all your help!! I just bought a meter to try to start over. I will have more to come. Thanks again
 
Just for quick reference my ammeter isn't the same it has a + and - one on each side. Had to replace it the glass was broken.
 
(quoted from post at 11:35:22 12/21/14) Just for quick reference my ammeter isn't the same it has a + and - one on each side. Had to replace it the glass was broken.
oesn't matter. Current still passes through it, just as if it were a wire.
 
I just checked the yellow wire on the key with the black meter stick on the - side of battery it was 0 the black wire on the key was 5.65 dc volts
clutch side of terminal block is 0 the other side 5.65
voltage regulator batt is 5.65
coil on the - was 5.65
all the tests were from the - side of battery with black and the red is on the wires i tested
 
(quoted from post at 13:14:23 12/21/14) i by passed the key by taking the key out and hooked both black and yellow together an still nothing.
hat does "still nothing" mean????

Also, to make things clearer, you should be measuring relative to ground and if battery is in 'stock' factory connection, then POS + is connected to ground.............so, make your measurements relative to + side of battery.

What voltage do you see at small terminal on solenoid?

Also, 5.65v battery is almost dead!
 
(still nothing) was that before i started today the tractor with the safety foot starting switch when pushed down the engine didn't turn over. There was nothing

I will try the pos side of the battery and get some readings. the battery shows on the charger 100% charged

the small terminal on the solenoid was really crazy it was going up to 150 but I had it still on dc volt i will try it again
 
(New positive ground readings) this is a 6 volt battery fyi

yellow from the key 6.5 volts
black on the other side of key -.300

clutch side of terminal block 6.5 volts
other side of terminal block -.300

batt on voltage regulator 6.5 volts

coil was -.300 (but that was positive ground to the - post

the meter on the small terminal post -.30 that is what it stopped at
 
I've by passed the key before and there was always a small spark when i connected them.

Also just so everyone knows when I connect the battery it doesn't spark either. normally i will get a small spark when i do that as well.
 
(quoted from post at 15:12:56 12/21/14) (New positive ground readings) this is a 6 volt battery fyi

yellow from the key 6.5 volts
black on the other side of key -.300

clutch side of terminal block 6.5 volts
other side of terminal block -.300

batt on voltage regulator 6.5 volts

coil was -.300 (but that was positive ground to the - post

the meter on the small terminal post -.30 that is what it stopped at
s you can see from the diagram, all the ign switch does , is short the two terminal blocks together. So.....in your case that is NOT happening. So, that means wires, switch or connections.

That is only one problem. Solve that , then we will move on to the starter.
 
Quick question on the ammeter is the positive side supposed to go to clutch side of terminal block or negative?
 
(quoted from post at 16:44:52 12/21/14) Quick question on the ammeter is the positive side supposed to go to clutch side of terminal block or negative?
lutch side terminal block to NEG ammeter
 
Finally got spark it was the new solenoid they gave me. I was the wrong one. Now I need to find out how to set the compression stroke to set the timing. I don't have the valve cover off to see all 4 strokes of the engine. Ive taking out the spark plug and turned over the engine until the piston comes up to the top, but I don't know for sure if thats the compression stroke. All four times it gives a good compression. Any way to make sure I'm on the right one?
 
Finally got spark it was the new solenoid they gave me. I was the wrong one. Now I need to find out how to set the compression stroke to set the timing. I don't have the valve cover off to see all 4 strokes of the engine. Ive taking out the spark plug and turned over the engine until the piston comes up to the top, but I don't know for sure if thats the compression stroke. All four times it gives a good compression. Any way to make sure I'm on the right one?[/quote]

having good compression on all four strokes is a problem because two strokes are down. You should easily feel some suction on your thumb when the piston is going down, and some pressure when going up. When you feel your thumb being pushed hard it is on the compression stroke.
 
Do you know if the flywheel goes around twice in the 4 strokes? if so 8 degrees btdc will come around only twice so the rotation that the rotor faces the number 1 cylinder should be compression? or is there a chance its the one that faces down.
 
I static timed the distributor someone said this would get the tractor at least started. but if its not on the compression stroke it won't start. should i just try both ways of the piston coming to the top?
 
(quoted from post at 03:16:35 12/28/14) I static timed the distributor someone said this would get the tractor at least started. but if its not on the compression stroke it won't start. should i just try both ways of the piston coming to the top?

You could try both ways but you should be able to feel the compression trying to push your thumb off the hole as it is coming up on the compression stroke. You should be doing this with the plugs out. Once you crank it over a few times with your thumb over the hole you will have a feel for when it is coming up again and be able to release the start button and bring it up the rest of the way with a wrench on the front bolt and a screwdriver in the hole to "feel" the piston come up.
 
(reply to post at 04:59:54 12/28/14)
k I tried both ways the rotor facing the 1 cylinder and the rotor facing down. both ways the 1 piston is at the top and the flywheel is set at what I think is at 8 degrees btdc. I have a flywheel that only has numbers that start a 0 and go up to 30 no center line to divide both ways. on the rotor facing 1 cylinder I got a little back blow on the carburetor no back fire like before threw the exhaust. I static timed the distributor both times until spark hit the 1st spark plug. What am I missing???
 

I just went back and read the whole thread and I have to ask why are we talking about TDC on compression stroke? Did you remove the distributor and then turn the motor? Or did you remove the camshaft? If you have not, you can forget about the highly unlikely possibility of spark on the wrong stroke and go back to verifying voltage at all points.
 
(quoted from post at 11:55:31 12/28/14)
I just went back and read the whole thread and I have to ask why are we talking about TDC on compression stroke? Did you remove the distributor and then turn the motor? Or did you remove the camshaft? If you have not, you can forget about the highly unlikely possibility of spark on the wrong stroke and go back to verifying voltage at all points.

Sorry last week before I lost spark I replaced the coil,points,condencer,cap,spark plugs and wires. My cousin pulled the old wires and plugs off with out marking them and it hasn't started sense. Gapped the plugs and the points to .025
 

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