Injector Removal

Jason 1

New User
I am trying to figure out how to remove the fuel injectors on my new to me Ford 545A. We had it running a few weeks back then went to start it and the engine with not turn over. Starter turns the engine 1/4" or so and when I took off the starter I could only turn the flywheel about 1/2 way until resistance. I can turn it back the other way but I hit resistance also. I thought hydrolock so I was going to try again to turn the flywheel with the injectors out but not sure how to remove. Removed the two nuts on the left and right of the injector. Then what pull straight out (tried to force a little with a screwdriver but would not move). Do you have to force these injectors out. Can I remove try to turn over and reinstal the same injectors and seals or do i need new ones. Starter was rebuilt about a month ago. Any help would be appreciated. I do not have the money or equipment to bring it to a mechanic so I have been learning fast about diesels and hydraulics.
 
Some times they get stuck with carbon. Pry as close the injector body as you can. I use a roller bar. Yes replace the seals and replace the injector or it will happen again. Or turn the engine backward the next time the piston comes to the top the exhaust valve will be open.
 

I use a small flat pry bar. Mine is maybe seven inches long. I bet that a cat's claw would work too. You will need new washers. I think that you are barking up the wrong tree though. How much battery do you have?
 
I did not want to pry to hard to break something. The battery is new as of November. And was fully charged. Should I be able to turn the flywheel 360, 720 etc with the crowbar (with ease)?
 
Is there another test or something I should be looking for. I was scared to reinstall the starter to try to turn it over and bend something inside the engine.
 
If it turns over more than one revolution backwards you know it was hydraulic locked. If not it's mechanical. Because a valve would be open at TDC exhaust and give the diesel fuel a place to go. If you would then pull the tractor backward in high gear you would blow out enough fuel that it would then start.
 
You need two 'injector bars'... about a 24" bar with a roller type head or something that allows you to get a bite on the injector. If they're stuck... make damn sure you use two bars. One on each ear of the injector, as close to the body as you can get. The injector ears are cast and they WILL break. Work slowly and deliberately. Once you get them out you can see what's going on... if it's full of fuel or coolant or whatever... Then engine should roll freely when the injectors are out. Turning the fan blade should suffice if the belt is tight. Also... once you get the injectors up clear of the studs you can often turn them and work them loose more easily.
I'd just check the tims and see if there's evidence that they were leaking or dripping... or have them tested if you're not sure. Beyond that... I'd probably reuse the washers. If you had new ones I'd use them... but I'd not go too far out of my way to get new ones. If you find fuel in the cylinders... I'd also make a point of checking the thermostart unit in the intake manifold. It's the most likely source of a fuel flood.
Whatever you do, don't got grinding on the starter or attempting to tow the tractor in it's present condition. That's an invitation to do a lot more damage.

Rod
 
Just thought I would give an update on my problem from a year ago. Finally pulled the injectors out and removed the head to find the reason my engine would not turn over was because of a shattered headland piston. (Top ring was broken into about 30 pieces). I plan on replacing the pistons but have been stumped again. I cannot remove the oil pan. I just do not have the strength nor the room to put in prybars to move the bolts. The interesting thing is the service/repair manual says one thing and the tractor is built different. Even when I search replacement oil pans the one that comes up looking like it will fit is few years newer.
Thank you for all your help. And I am sure I will need it in the spring when I try to tackle this again.
 

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