Question on fuel system Ford 3000 Diesel

Rusty_S85

Member
I know the basic theory behind diesels but never took courses on them and wanted to verify this before I go throwing parts.

Back story is the last two times I parked the tractor I turned the fuel off at the fuel tank. The next time I used it I forgot to turn the fuel back on and ran it empty. The first time this happened I cranked on it some and it started back up. The second time which was today, the engine just spins over.

I checked fuel at the lift pump on the side of the injection pump, theres pressure there and I took and loosened the bleeder bolts on the top of each filter and fuel came out under some pressure. But when I cracked open the hard line from the injection pump to one of the injectors after cranking on the engine there was no pressure there, a little fuel bubbled out but no real pressure.

Now correct me if I am wrong on this but being mechanical injection the injectors will not open till a certain PSI is reached on the fuel. So I am thinking the injection pump gave up the ghost and was probably caused by age and running it empty two times.

Now does this sound what it could be? I am fixing to look up the injection pump R&R in my shop manual to see if its something I want to task myself with doing. I need to get this one going again considering my '59 641 Workmaster still has yet to be fixed after replacing all the ignition components and now I have none running at the moment and this 3000 has been dependable till this.
 
There's pressure and there's flow, the injector lines are a couple k+ psi, but flow is nill. Cracking the line and getting a drip it two if fuel I what you expect. Charge bat. If she wont start after leaving fuel valve open a few hours and she's a straight gear trans, get a pull.

Ps, make sure fuel stop is not pulled or stuck pulled.
 
(quoted from post at 19:40:42 12/13/14) There's pressure and there's flow, the injector lines are a couple k+ psi, but flow is nill. Cracking the line and getting a drip it two if fuel I what you expect. Charge bat. If she wont start after leaving fuel valve open a few hours and she's a straight gear trans, get a pull.

Ps, make sure fuel stop is not pulled or stuck pulled.

I checked the fuel stop I cranked on it while pulling and pushing the fuel stop in and out. I even checked at the injection pump to make sure that it was going all the way forward.

The only thing I did not do though how ever was mess with the bleeder screw on the side of the injection pump.

I just read in the shop manual that bleeding air out of the system goes from the aft fuel filter to the fore fuel filter then the injection pump then crack open the hard lines at the injectors then crank the engine over till fuel with no air bubbles comes out then close and done.

I am just wondering now if maybe I lucked out the first time and didnt get an air bubble in the injection pump but this time I did and thats why I am getting no real fuel coming out of the injector lines at the pump itself.

When I cracked open the line it was some air bubbles coming out and a spits worth of fuel would be more than what came out. Almost no fuel came out of the injection pump hard line going to the injectors when I cracked it open after cranking on it.

I know Injector #1 is leaking fuel while it runs and I will correct that eventually, but as of the moment when pumping on the priming lever on the lift pump I built up quite a bit of pressure that cracking open the hardlines and bleeding screws at the outlet of the lift pump, the rear filter, the front filter, and the outlet from the filter to the injection pump all had fuel under a fair amount of pressure and a tablespoon worth of fuel came out easily just cracking them open. Now the injection pump very very little came out of the injector line at the pump itself.

I am thinking about trying the air bleed process the next time I go down to the ground and see if theres any air in the injection pump that could be causing this. Sure would hate to spend close to $700 on a new lift pump if it doesnt need it or its not the problem.
 
(quoted from post at 19:41:18 12/13/14) You better have solid dribble of oil out the cracked injector lines, get rid of the bubbles.

I assume oil as in diesel fuel? I didnt really look closely since the battery covers a good amount but I didnt see but one hardline going to the injectors and that was from the injector pump.
 
(quoted from post at 20:11:28 12/13/14) If she's gear, save some headaches and just try the pull start.

Starter will thank you for it

I will give that a try as well. I know about the starter though, We've burned quite a few on Ford 6.0 diesels cranking on them to get them going after we change the fuel filters, problem there is they have no way to prime them just have to crank on them.

This one is how ever has the 8 speed transmission though.
 
(quoted from post at 20:14:04 12/13/14) Has inline pump. Loosen bleed screw on side of head and get air out. How long since oil in pump been changed?

I have no idea, we only purchased the tractor about 4 months ago and only ran it about six times. Have no record of when it was last serviced. Thats why I was initially thinking the injection pump went out.

I planned on doing a full service on everything once we get a building built so I can have all my tools with me instead of this small basic set I carry in the truck. At least then I know what needs to be done and when.
 
You are mistaken on the ford 6-ohs.

I have one right outside, they have an electric charge pump. When you turn the key over it charges the fuel filter housing, with filter out you can see it prime up. I've gotten a load of water before and had to have a new filter brought out to the roadside while I siphoned out tank, dumped in 10g diesel, and ran electric pump over to purge it.
 
(quoted from post at 20:27:21 12/13/14) You are mistaken on the ford 6-ohs.

I have one right outside, they have an electric charge pump. When you turn the key over it charges the fuel filter housing, with filter out you can see it prime up. I've gotten a load of water before and had to have a new filter brought out to the roadside while I siphoned out tank, dumped in 10g diesel, and ran electric pump over to purge it.

Yes they have an electric prime pump but it still doesnt change the fact that we have burned up starters cranking on them till they finally fired off. If you dont believe me on that you can always ask my coworker and my boss as they have done the same thing.

But to get back to the point at hand though, if I can get the thing running again and the injection pump didnt just burn out on me I will be how ever changing the oil in it as well as the engine itself. Just need to deside on which oil to go with. I have shunned Rotella oil as they are API certified and to maintain that certification the zinc levels had to be drop to meet government requirements. If I am forced to run an API certified oil for this I will run a ford brand oil then.
 
You might want to heed Shaun's advise and bleed the injector pump itself. You would be well advised to check/change the oil in the injection pump as well. You don't need a shop full of tools to do a basic service on a 3000.
 
It isn't a big deal to know how to burn up starters. The trick is to know how NOT to burn them up.
 
Just sayin.. If you have to burn out a starter on a 6-0 to start after a fuel outage, you are doing it the wrong way.

On your 3000, use any 15w40 c rated oil, or 10w30 c rated or 5w40 c rated oil if in arctic temps, most c rated oils preserved higher zddp than s rated oils.
 
(quoted from post at 23:04:56 12/13/14)
(quoted from post at 19:40:42 12/13/14) There's pressure and there's flow, the injector lines are a couple k+ psi, but flow is nill. Cracking the line and getting a drip it two if fuel I what you expect. Charge bat. If she wont start after leaving fuel valve open a few hours and she's a straight gear trans, get a pull.

Ps, make sure fuel stop is not pulled or stuck pulled.

I checked the fuel stop I cranked on it while pulling and pushing the fuel stop in and out. I even checked at the injection pump to make sure that it was going all the way forward.

The only thing I did not do though how ever was mess with the bleeder screw on the side of the injection pump.

I just read in the shop manual that bleeding air out of the system goes from the aft fuel filter to the fore fuel filter then the injection pump then crack open the hard lines at the injectors then crank the engine over till fuel with no air bubbles comes out then close and done.

I am just wondering now if maybe I lucked out the first time and didnt get an air bubble in the injection pump but this time I did and thats why I am getting no real fuel coming out of the injector lines at the pump itself.

When I cracked open the line it was some air bubbles coming out and a spits worth of fuel would be more than what came out. Almost no fuel came out of the injection pump hard line going to the injectors when I cracked it open after cranking on it.

I know Injector #1 is leaking fuel while it runs and I will correct that eventually, but as of the moment when pumping on the priming lever on the lift pump I built up quite a bit of pressure that cracking open the hardlines and bleeding screws at the outlet of the lift pump, the rear filter, the front filter, and the outlet from the filter to the injection pump all had fuel under a fair amount of pressure and a tablespoon worth of fuel came out easily just cracking them open. Now the injection pump very very little came out of the injector line at the pump itself.

I am thinking about trying the air bleed process the next time I go down to the ground and see if theres any air in the injection pump that could be causing this. Sure would hate to spend close to $700 on a new lift pump if it doesnt need it or its not the problem.
roblem may be here:

*crack open the hard lines [b:029578065b]at the injectors [/b:029578065b]
* I am getting no real fuel coming out of the injector lines [u:029578065b]at the pump itself.[/u:029578065b]
*Almost no fuel came out of the injection pump hard line [u:029578065b]going to the injectors[/u:029578065b] when I cracked it open after cranking on it.
*but I didnt see but [u:029578065b]one hardline [/u:029578065b]going to the injectors and that was from the injector pump. ???

WHERE is important!
 

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