Rebuilding Ford 4000 engine (201) Which kit best?

Getting ready to start this rebuild and thinking I want to do sleeves vs overbore. Thoughts on this but also who makes the best kits? Ford / NH probably no longer offers them so trying to determine who to go with.

Thank you
 
if it is sleeveless it would be cheaper to bore it
and used over sized pistons than to bore it out
and then buy sleeves.

I doubt you will ever wear it out again.
 
(quoted from post at 12:15:52 12/08/14) if it is sleeveless it would be cheaper to bore it
and used over sized pistons than to bore it out
and then buy sleeves.

I doubt you will ever wear it out again.


I agree but just like the idea of sleeves. Looking at price doesn't really seem a huge difference anyways just not sure who makes the better kits. I hear some have bad gaskets etc. Thanks for your input.
 
When I rebuilt my 4600, I found some NOS sleeves and pistons
on ebay for considerably less than from a NH or aftermarket
dealer. The gaskets, bearings and such I got from NH or
CarQuest.
You -definitely- want to use sleeves. Otherwise, you'll likely be
back in there before long due to cavitation holes in the cylinder
wall.
 
I don't recall having problems with engine kits from TISCO, either as a buyer or as a dealership parts guy.
 
(quoted from post at 14:56:30 12/08/14) I don't recall having problems with engine kits from TISCO, either as a buyer or as a dealership parts guy.

Ok this will probably be the route I go then as they are easy to find. Just wanted to be sure. Thanks
 
Is this a gasser or a diesel?
If it's a gasser I probably wouldn't spend the $ for sleeves. Just bore oversize. I've never heard of them having the problems with cavitation like the diesels did.
If a diesel I would surely sleeve it.
 
I agree with sleeving. Having said that, I would much prefer installing a thick wall sleeve and boring that instead of boring for a thin wall, pre-sized sleeve. Too much chance for that thin-wall sleeve to distort when pressed into the bore.
 
(quoted from post at 16:09:01 12/08/14) I agree with sleeving. Having said that, I would much prefer installing a thick wall sleeve and boring that instead of boring for a thin wall, pre-sized sleeve. Too much chance for that thin-wall sleeve to distort when pressed into the bore.

Ok that makes sense to me. Ok so now who makes the thicker sleeves? I'm sure it's not Tisco right?
 
I don't know who makes them - my local machine shop sourced them. I would imagine that most pre-made kits will contain thin-wall sleeves.

It will cost more for the thick-wall sleeve option, primarily because it has to be bored and honed twice for each hole. However, I feel it's money well spent.
 
I bored out a gas 3000 and hit a sand casting on the 3rd hole, ended up sleeving all three back to standard cost me $900 including the piston kit. My shop guy sourced the sleeves
 
I overhauled a 2000 gas for a friend couple of years ago. The local machine shop will not overbore a ford unless you insist and he'll tell you flat out he doesn't want to hear any whining if if puts water into the pan shortly after starting it. He sleeves them back to standard. He also pressure tests all the blocks we works on, he got burned once on a 4 cylinder that had a crack in the main oil galley into the cooling system.
 

My own experience which has been reinforced a lot by what I read here is that your best bet is to choose your machine shop, and then use their expertise and connections. I think that it starts with the crank. They will tell you what needs to be done and what size bearings to get. They also know where to get the right sized pistons rings valves etc. When I had 172 rebuilt some years back they used Chevy valves to overcome the problem of the seats being severely recessed.
 

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