Type B voltage regulator

jollymon

Member
I have been having voltage regulator problems on a Ford 800. I took the generator to the guy who rebuilt it to eliminate it as a possible problem. It checked out OK. He said the contacts get stuck closed on the VR and they burn up. He also said the FLD to BATT polarization for a Type B System is absolutly wrong. It needs to be polarized like a Type A with a jumper from BATT to GEN. He said the manual is incorrect. Has anyone else ever heard ot tried this?
 
(quoted from post at 17:49:58 11/12/14) I have been having voltage regulator problems on a Ford 800. I took the generator to the guy who rebuilt it to eliminate it as a possible problem. It checked out OK. He said the contacts get stuck closed on the VR and they burn up. He also said the FLD to BATT polarization for a Type B System is absolutly wrong. It needs to be polarized like a Type A with a jumper from BATT to GEN. He said the manual is incorrect. Has anyone else ever heard ot tried this?
n a "B"-type generator/VR system, either BATT to FLD or BATT to ARM will work. Almost all literature recommends removing the Field wire at generator & connecting the jumper from BATT to generator FLD. However, BATT to ARM will also put the polarizing surge of current through the field when all gen/VR wires are connected. My feeling on this BATT to ARM approach with the "B"-type is that when done this way, you are relying upon the VR field contacts being closed & making good contact, which in a perfect VR, they will. I do NOT like BATT to FLD WITH all wires connected because this will result in abnormally high armature current through the VR's small field contacts!!
This is pretty much fool proof:
 
Thanks again for your help JMOR. Based on the way my VR,s are looking after they fail it looks like a high current is running through it. To polarize I disconnected the FLD and touched it to BATT (still connected). Do both need to be disconnected? Also if I try the BAT to GEN jump could it cause any damage? The generator guy also said when the VR is new they sometimes stick with contacts closed. He said that when VR is newly installed, run tractor for a minute and shut down. Check ammeter for discharge and if so tap VR to free up contacts. They are usually alright from that point. Thanks
 
(quoted from post at 08:53:46 11/13/14) Thanks again for your help JMOR. Based on the way my VR,s are looking after they fail it looks like a high current is running through it. To polarize I disconnected the FLD and touched it([b:22e7f11831][i:22e7f11831]Fld of generator[/i:22e7f11831][/b:22e7f11831]) to BATT (still connected). Do both need to be disconnected?[b:22e7f11831][i:22e7f11831]no[/b:22e7f11831][/i:22e7f11831] Also if I try the BAT to GEN jump could it cause any damage?[b:22e7f11831][i:22e7f11831]no[/b:22e7f11831][/i:22e7f11831] The generator guy also said when the VR is new they sometimes stick with contacts closed. He said that when VR is newly installed, run tractor for a minute and shut down. Check ammeter for discharge and if so tap VR to free up contacts. They are usually alright from that point.[b:22e7f11831][i:22e7f11831]after minute run & stop, if you have any question about ammeter, you can also remove the ARM wire at generator & touch it back to ARM terminal to see if it sparks.....if it does, then cut out contacts are stuck closed.[/i:22e7f11831][/b:22e7f11831][i:22e7f11831][/i:22e7f11831] Thanks
 

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