'63 Ford 4000 172 Timing Question

EliJoe1

New User
Hello,

This is my first post on the board. I just purchased a 1963 Ford 4000 with a 1000 hr 4 cylinder 172 gas engine. I installed new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, points/condenser.

My question is timing. The manual calls for 4 degrees btdc, but the fuel at the time of the manual was low octane, I think.

Can one advance the timing a little for cleaner running and better overall power with 92 octane fuel?

Thanks in advance!

Eli
 
I also have a new proofmeter and drive cable, but don't easily see where the cable attaches to the engine. I could please use help here, too!
 
(quoted from post at 09:01:10 10/28/14) I also have a new proofmeter and drive cable, but don't easily see where the cable attaches to the engine. I could please use help here, too!

Proof meter cable attaches to the back of the hydraulic pump.

Check your mechanical advance, under the point and condenser plate. Mine was rusty and required clean and lube to operate.

Sure you can tweak the timing, elevation will play a role. Listen for spark knock if you go too far.
 
Probably if you do not plan to lug the engine but you will notice no performance difference.

Dean
 
thanks for the quick replies.

I found the port for the cable at the back of the hydraulic pump, but it looks like it's round tube with a slit and the cable is square at the end. I'm wondering if I got the wrong cable or the pump has been changed at some point.
 
Proofmeter cable with the square end sounds like it's for the later 3 cylinder 4000 models with the proofmeter drive off the back of the generator.
 
I don't think that there was a different proofmeter cable for diesel vs. gas, just for 4 cylinder vs. 3 cylinder. All 4 cylinder 4000's (gas and diesel) had the proofmeter driven off the back of the hydraulic pump and all 3 cylinder 4000's (gas and diesel) had the proofmeter driven off of the back of the generator.

The 4 cylinder 4000 models were made from 1961-1964 and they were made in gasoline and diesel engine versions. The 3 cylinder 4000 models were made from 1965-1975 and they were also made in gasoline and diesel engine versions.
 
(quoted from post at 13:33:35 10/28/14)
The 4 cylinder 4000 models were made from 1961-1964

4 cyl 4000s weren't built until late '62. Think they were all called '63 and '64 models
 
as mentioned, you will probably see better gains
by making sure your advance is working properly.
Then, using your timing light to get the max advance just right at the right rpm. Specs are in the books.
I make sure my advance/rpm is right with the light, and am not really concerned where it is at idle.
the only time my tractors ever low idle is the few minutes of cool down before shutting them off....
 
Thanks for everyone's help.

I set the timing at low idle. It was WAY retarted and nowhere near any of the timing marks on the flywheel. It literally feels like double the power pulling a spring tooth.

I will get the tach hooked up and check full advance at the specified rpm this weekend. Thanks again!
 
(quoted from post at 11:33:35 10/28/14) I don't think that there was a different proofmeter cable for diesel vs. gas, just for 4 cylinder vs. 3 cylinder. All 4 cylinder 4000's (gas and diesel) had the proofmeter driven off the back of the hydraulic pump and all 3 cylinder 4000's (gas and diesel) had the proofmeter driven off of the back of the generator.

The 4 cylinder 4000 models were made from 1961-1964 and they were made in gasoline and diesel engine versions. The 3 cylinder 4000 models were made from 1965-1975 and they were also made in gasoline and diesel engine versions.

The cable was for a newer diesel. I boned it when ordering.
 
Btw, with the retarded timing I was getting run on like the other Ford 4000 in the forum right now.
 
(quoted from post at 17:39:00 10/28/14)
(quoted from post at 13:33:35 10/28/14)
The 4 cylinder 4000 models were made from 1961-1964

4 cyl 4000s weren't built until late '62. Think they were all called '63 and '64 models

They were made starting in 1961 as Industrial versions only to replace the 1801 series, and then in 1963 they came out with the ag chassis versions to replace the 801 series.
 
It it at 24 degrees total timing and it runs like a champ. Thanks for all of your help.

Is the electronic ignition conversion a good option? I have read some threads on it, and just the thought of having the timing stay in one spot due to no points to wear sounds good.....
 

there is nothing wrong with the ei... some will argue that the points are as good when clean and serviced correctly...So.. its more a matter of preference. With a bunch of the cheap points out there, the ei may soon be the only way to go.

However an EI can occasionally fail and the old points are readily availible and you can keep a spare set on the shelf, with a spare set of plugs....
 

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