I am having charging troubles on a Ford 800. The battery shows 6.4v not running and generator showing 7.4v running. The battery is not charging. I replaced the regulator and polarized (field to bat). It worked perfectly for two days and is now no longer charging. The amp meter did showed a constant charge when it was working, maxed out all the time but now shows nothing. I suspect the regulator again but it is brand new. Bought from yesterdays tractor. I checked all wires coming off the generator and they all show continuity with the chassis. Is this correct or do I have a short causing max charge and burnout? Any help is appreciated. Thanks
- Thread starter jollymon
- Start date
es, on continuity question. Temporarily jumper regulator terminals BATT to ARM while running & see if charge increases. If not, add a second jumper from ARM to Field & see if charge increases. These jumpers simply simulate the closing of cut out & field contacts within the VR.
if it was not charging ( showing on ammeter ).. and jumpering cutout got you charge, and then ading field jumper got you even more. then likely genny is working ok, and vreg is bad.
cutout jumper means cutout is not operating. the fact it showed charge when jumpered means field ckt is likely working.. not that that is any help with cutout open.. etc.
so new reg.. unless you have some big diode laying around.
cutout jumper means cutout is not operating. the fact it showed charge when jumpered means field ckt is likely working.. not that that is any help with cutout open.. etc.
so new reg.. unless you have some big diode laying around.
We see many, many reports of new VR failures (some no doubt real, other may be mis-diagnosis), but I still run perfectly well operating original VRs on equipment that was built in 1950 and 1962. Many suspect cheap/shoddy Chinese junk & I don't doubt it, but also these things are a small production affair today & not the "build all day every day" runs of 50 years ago. With refinements, the cut out is just a relay......voltage on coil makes electromagnet that moves a magnetic 'armature' (metal hinge) and closes a set of contacts.
If the coil current is there and the armature moves, it is usually just dirty/corroded contacts or an invisible insulating film on them that when carefully cleaned will again work just fine. If the wire in coil is damaged, it is junk.
If the coil current is there and the armature moves, it is usually just dirty/corroded contacts or an invisible insulating film on them that when carefully cleaned will again work just fine. If the wire in coil is damaged, it is junk.
ou can disconnect it from A-F-B, remove VR cover (screws or drill out rivets) and connect a variable DC power supply to ARM & case and slowly increase voltage until around 12.5 to 13 volts it will pull the armature down & close the contacts. No variable DC supply? OK, then a 12v battery in series with one or two flashlight D-cells. Once you verify pull-in, you can use Ohm meter to verify contacts are closing , thus connecting BATT to ARM. If no pull-in, coil likely bad, if pull-in & no BATT to ARM contact, then clean/burnish contacts. You can of course close contacts/armature with your finger.
All a matter of time, capability, interest, etc. If interested in playing, send picture of your VR & I can help with circuit diagram, internals ID, etc. If you can't post picture, my e-mail is open in MODERN VIEW.
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