860 3 point not working

old

Well-known Member
Ok so got a call from a guy today. He has a 860 that the 3 point does not work. Also has the external hyd lines which seem to have pressure to them since if you pull the lever the engine bogs down a bit. Odd thing is on the pump there is some sort of control which I have never seen. Pump looks to be a vane type pump. Pull the inspection plate off and see nothing odd but yet the 3 point does nothing. Any ideas as to what I might find when I open it up?? Fist thing I plan to do when he gets it to me is check pressure at the external hyds to rule out the pump.
Thanks
 
i'm guessing when you say 'pull lever bogs engine'

translates to energizing a remote lever with nothing hooked up thus forcing the relief.

this is a good sign.

that control on the vane pump is a flow control.


53+ lifts that have flow and at least marginal pressures that have no lift make me think of stuck unloader.

if it was a naa, i'd say check backpressure valve first, as it's kinda seperate and accessed under the acorn nut.. not so on this machine though.. in any case the UV needs about 40ish psi to keep alive.
 
One thing that caught me before was on a remote with a detent that keeps it open is the handle can get left in the open position and your 3 point wont work.
Check both handles to see that they are centered.
 
Just got it in my shop 30 minutes ago. Checked pressure at one of the 2 remotes and have 1500 plus. The remote control lever will pull out of your hand if you try to hold it long so that is why I say 1500 plus since it does jump up a bit higher till the lever has to be released. Guess I'll be ordering a gasket for it plus maybe more but will not know till I open it up. Got love chain hoists for jobs like this one
 
This one only has a single remote and it will self center if you try to hold it on the relief valve. Has 1500 plus PSI so I know the pump is good. First thing I checked when I got it in my shop was pressure on the remote. Guess I'll be doing some reading in the I-T manual tonight or tomorrow
 
Biggest problem is I need to figure out what is wrong before buying parts. With it running and looking in the inspection cover today I could not seen any oil movement any place when moving the 3 point lever. Guess I'll be reading the manual soon I have the F)-20 I-T manual so that should help
 
At a minimum, you'll need that gasket and oring kit if you pull the cover.

You know no part ahead of the remote I leaking, and since you see no sprays from trying the lift, its pointing more toward pulling apart the valve/cyl body .. And probably unsticking a unloaded.. Or troubleshooting Bp circuit
 
And on this one the fact it has a front end loader on it does not help. From what I just read sounds like the unloader valve is stuck or bad since I know the control valve does in fact move since I was able to move it by hand today. Also figure likely to need a new cam follower pin
 
Not sure how a loader helps or hurts you, shouldn't be obstructing the top cover any.

I replace cam pins any time I go in one just for you measure.
 
Loader hurts because of how it mounts. It sits high so hard to be able to see into the inspection cover area. As in the main frame of the loader is 6 or so inches above the floor boards. So doing anything from the inspection plate area is hard
 
Any oops thing to watch for when pulling that cover?? I know it is not like the 8N or 2N which I have done but never done one of the 800 series till this one. As in any linkage to worry about etc??
Thanks
 
Naw, its actually an easy pull, the front end kinda hangs so if u lift from the rear and slide it back a hair it then goes straight up. First one I pulled, I too was unsure about, especially after having seen the external back pressure pipe on a naa. Imho, ford got it right in 55 with that cover finally, a gasket for the cover and 2 orings for the pipes will be visible once u get the cover off. Aside from the valve body, getting the cover back on is easier than an 8 or 2 n.
 
Ya from the book it looked like it would be easier then the 8N where you had to line up the control rod. I plan to rebuild it either way with new rings on the cylinder piston and the UN-loader valve and maybe a new relief valve just to be on the safe side
 
that unloader valve may or may not have a metal ring you have to buy seperately vs the oring.

the hyd piston oring and washer is included in the top cover kit.

I would not mess with your relief valve. apparently yours is working fine.. new replacements are of dubious quality, and spendy at that. the relief for that unit is at the base/right front of the center section under a small plate right where the hyd lines from the trans come in / before they go up the casting to the top cover.
 
The safety valve as it is calling in the I-T manual page 128 figure FO264 seemed to be lose as for the setting on it. It has a stop and it was a 1/4 inch off that stop so that could be a problem. Almost sounds like your talking about the same part as I am just not using the manuals terms. I do have it all apart right now
 
there is a safety valve and a relief valve. which are you talking about. the safety is in the valve body. the relief is at the front base of the sump.
 
This safety valve screws into the cylinder body part #42 in the IT manual FO264 picture
 
That is the one I found to be set like it was not like it should be but it is also the one you can change real easy with out puling the lift cover. I did open it up and clean it up then set it down tight on the stop. Have to order parts on Monday. Plan to drain out the hyd system and clean it up before I put it back together
 
I figure since the parts will not be here till next week I will look at the other valves and make sure they move as they should. Have not found any thing that say right out that hey this is why the 3 point did not work as of yet
 
As in the one that sits next to the control valve right?? Under a 3 bolt plate part #45 in the same picture in the I-T manual
 
I understand that. I have the manual right here s that is why i am quoting it
 
I would say the unload valve is stuck. Those tractors were notorious for that. The remote works because it captures flow ahead of the three point control valve...
You'll probably find that the unloader is rather corroded...

Rod
 
The unloader looks pretty good but yes it did seem to be stuck but moves freely now
 
I called the sort of local CNH dealer and they said there is no gasket kit you have to buy every thing piece by piece. Would you maybe have the kit part number so I can use that to maybe find one?? Thanks
 
they must be staffed by morons.

RickB might have the kit part number, but I don't save the packaging. i walk in ask for a top cover kit for a 55-64 and they hand me one shrink wrapped on a cardboard frame wil all gaskets and orings together... a commercially packed piece.. not something the dealer put together.

this site sells it for 8$ Part No: LCRK5564
ytmag lift kit
 

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