Ford 5600 with Flex Link

jjcollett

Member
I am in the process of "renewing" this tractor and
want a recommendation.

The Flex Link ends on my lift arms are definatly
worn but as I recall they were pretty loose even
when new. The cables are broken so they are not
usable as intended anyway. Mine have a ring on the
cable rather than a lever as I see in the parts
catalog.

Is it worth the repair or should I just weld the
Flex Link solid?
 
To me it is worth the repair.... not that I use the extensions a whole lot but sometimes they are handy.
What's wrong with the ones you have other than a broken cable? Usually if they stay latched that's all you need worry about. I've had them get so worn they won't stay latched anymore... then you need to do some welding on the extension and square up the shoulders on it.
Buying any parts for those things will give you a heart attack.

Rod
 

Both cables are broken and the ring is missing on both sides. On the left, the spring, pin, and anchor is missing so it is not currently holding tight.

Don't need many parts but I bet it is pricey. Not sure it is worth it.
 
The ones on my 5000 were worn and wouldn't stay latched. I took the arms off, did a lot of measuring figuring out where the end of the slot was when the links were retracted and drilled a hole (3/4" IIRC) through the outer receptacle that the link slides in. I got a pair of short pins at TSC that fit through the holes. When I'm hooking up an implement I remove the pins which allows the links to extend and when I'm attached I back up which retracts the links and I put the pins back in.
 
(quoted from post at 17:31:24 10/13/14) The ones on my 5000 were worn and wouldn't stay latched. I took the arms off, did a lot of measuring figuring out where the end of the slot was when the links were retracted and drilled a hole (3/4" IIRC) through the outer receptacle that the link slides in. I got a pair of short pins at TSC that fit through the holes. When I'm hooking up an implement I remove the pins which allows the links to extend and when I'm attached I back up which retracts the links and I put the pins back in.

That sounds like a really good solution. Somehow I envision that using the pins holds the links as securely as even when they were new. Only downside is they don't click into place by themselves. I'm not sure how many times we actually used the Flex Link feature anyway.

Just pricing the replacement cable ends and a spring for both sides from CNH is $$$Texas. Really, $35 for a small flat piece of spring steel?
 
use a stanless steel drop wire clamp hanger to replace the cable. it has a big end on the stainless hook and works very well. AKA drop wire clamp. Cut the hanger stainless wire into to make two cables... install an then bend a finger loop in the excess end sticking out. Bend the loop so it also hold the slack out of the stainless.
mvphoto12005.jpg
 
flex links are only good if they work... so fix em and fall in love all over again.

Picture of finished repair.


mvphoto12006.jpg
 
When I got my '73 4000 one of the rings was missing due to the cable having broken on a previous owner. The other one worked fine. If I remember correctly, it was about $10.00 total in parts to repair it to new again, and that was counting a couple of small parts that I ended up not actually needing, but I had ordered everything I might possibly need from the parts diagram before I took the thing apart as I wanted to have a minimum amount of down time.

Hardest part was getting one of the original roll pins out to be able to take it apart enough to replace the internals. 5 minutes with a drill got the roll pin out and the rest of the repair, including reassembly was less than another 5 minutes.
 

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