ford 3000 gas tractor bad miss at all rpm

I recently acquired a 1967 ford 3000 from a neighbor that hasnt been started for 5 years. The fuel tank was rusted bad, so that has been replaced. The original Holley carb bowl was packed full of zinc oxide and had pin holes in it after cleaning, that has been replaced with a Zenith from YTC and should fit a 3 cylinder ford. Everything except some of the wiring for the ignition system has been replaced. New cap, rotor, points, condenser, plugs, plug wires, coil. Vac advance seems to work. Points gap bench set at 25, plug gap at 25. Valves have been set to 17 intake and 21 exhaust and double checked several times. 125 compression in all 3 cylinders
Fuel pump had been checked and cleaned but seemed to be over pressuring the float needle and flooding the carb. That has been removed and now has a gravity feed with separator direct from the tank.
Now that I have all of that posted, this is what it is doing:
it starts easy and runs hot or cold at any throttle position without choke and sounds like a harley idling (poping out of the exhaust at all rpms). A fast change from the throttle seems to make it clean up and run smoother , but blows black smoke then misses again when the rpms stabilize. I have not checked timing due to not having a timing light (I pitched my old one about 5 years ago thinking I didnt need it anymore), but it cranks good. I eyeballed the timing to 3 deg when re installing the distributor after replacing the wire from the coil to the points. Adjusting the distributor from one end of the slot to the other doesnt seem to make much of a difference. I have played with the valve lash ( 1/4 turn loose and 1/8 tight) but that didnt seem to help. I am out of ideas.

I'd reinvest in the purchase of a new timing light.
Sounds like timing is off with the back-firing.

Thats on the list for tomorrow.
I did a little checking on the carb (13914A) to make sure it was the right one and found that a hole in the accelerator pump diaphragm will cause the same thing. I checked that and it looks good. It runs like the choke is closed (its not, I can see it is open) and I wanted to make sure the carb had the right jets.
I may jb weld the bowl on the old carb and try it just to rule out any problems with the new one.

I timed my 850 and it did quit back firing.

blowing black smoke?? again, your flooding... that's why is starts good... whats up with that?? either the float valve is leaking or the float set too high, or a hole in the accelerator valve or something is going on..

New carb, right out of the box. The float might actually be set a little low. I have not checked the specs on this one, but the float angles up from the pin when inverted.

I am still leaning toward wrong jets it the carb right now

ok.. pull plug wires one at a time and see if the black smoke or popping quits... do you have the plug wires on in the right order?

I bought the timing light to day. timing was adjusted to 3 btdc @ 475 rpm with vac advance removed. That was dead in the middle of the adjustment slot for the dist. It runs the same. I picked up some fuel line to hook up the old carb after I get the bowl sealed.

anyone know the jet size that should be in this carb.
YTC has this listed for a 3000 tractor with a 175 cid engine.
tractordata,com has the 3000 engine listed as 158 cid.(not the first time I have found that td's numbers dont match the rest of the world). I have found other sites that list this as a 158 engine.
YTC has the carb for the 2000 (and only the 2000) for a 158 3 cylinder gas engine. the carb I bought for the 3000 fits 175 gas engines (the 3000 did have a 175 diesel)

I put the old crusty carb back on without rebuilding it. Had to run 3/4 choke, but it ran fine.


Everything else = good... new carb = junk. thanks YTC!!!
50% of the stuff I have bought from this site was the wrong part, didnt fit or poor quality.
this $325 carb will be going back in the box and returned along with the wrong key switch they sold me. I wish I could return the side decals that dont fit and the shift pattern decal that didnt have any adhesive on it. I had to cut the choke cable 10" to get it to work right.

The moral of the story is to do your homework and buy stuff based on the original part number not what this website says will fit your tractor, or just go to the dealer and get the right part the first time.

My references say that all 3000 gasoline engines were 158 ci. Only the 3000 diesel engines were 175 ci. They jumped up to a 175 ci gasoline engine when they came out with the 3600 series, which was what replaced the 3000 series in 1975.

Exactly.
So why would a parts supply house that specializes in replacement parts for 50+ year old tractors, list this carb to fit a 175 engine in a 3000.
I have lost a week and who knows how many hours fighting this, not to mention buying another $100 worth of parts and a $45 timing light to rule out a spark issue.

THANKS YTC!!!!

(quoted from post at 15:39:17 09/28/14) Exactly.
So why would a parts supply house that specializes in replacement parts for 50+ year old tractors, list this carb to fit a 175 engine in a 3000.
I have lost a week and who knows how many hours fighting this, not to mention buying another $100 worth of parts and a $45 timing light to rule out a spark issue.

THANKS YTC!!!!

Click to expand...

I've had good luck with walts tractors. I believe that's where I got the carb for my 3cyl 4000.

Wedge

I contacted zenith and the main jet should be C52-36-25.5 for a carb for a 158 engine. Not having any luck finding that on the net.
Waiting for the YTC b tch line to open so I can see what my options are. I still have the box but it has been in the dumpster for a week ( I dont think they want that one back) I might be screwed on this one. Even if they do take it , they will probably wait to get my carb before they send the right one. Broke down for another 2 weeks. I was planning on using this during my vacation next week.

THANKS YTC!!!!

Just got off the phone with CS. No problems with the return (other than them not admitting that the website was wrong).
New carb is on the way but I'm out the money for 2 carbs until they get the new one back.
Waiting on bucket cylinder seals for the loader, but other than that , this thing should be able to do some work by thursday

now I get an email 6 hours later and the jackwagon says he needs a cc number to process the order for the new carb.
I have a sneaky feeling this is far from over

The carb for a 158 ci "2000" is on and runs like a top.
I had to pay shipping 3 ways to get the right carb. I will discuss this with the b tch line on friday.

I am dealing with the Chinese fuel cap that turns but wont come off now.

I will pay extra for real parts from CNH after this. They may be higher but not if you have to pay $40 shipping for the right carb

self threadjack...
I checked the oil on this after I got it running good and found it to be about a quart over full, before that , I didnt pay that much attention to it. It was way up on the stick and looked dirty, so I was gonna change it any way. I drained it out and it smelled a little like gas. After the problems with the carb and fuel pump I kinda expected that. I checked the net for engine oil capacity for a 158 ford 3000 and the first thing that came up was tractordata.com engine specs. I clicked on that and it said 8 qts. I changed the filter, drained the oil and proceeded to put in 8 qts (the local orilleys only sells half cases now.. so 1 half case and 2 singles).
I started it up and let it idle for a few minutes and checked the oil.
The stick showed a quart over full.
So here is my question, is TD.C wrong, junk yard dipstick, or does this not have a 158?
I see that some of the 2000's only take 7 qts.

and on a side note: I have put over 5 gallons of gas in this. part of that went to running rich, part to a bad fuel pump, some of it went on the ground when the old carb was leaking. guestimated actual run time is under 2 hours. Where did it all go. Do the zenith carbs get that bad of fuel mileage, or did I just lose that much?