jamesalred
New User
On a Ford 2600 I had to replace the seal in the steering column. I thought I had done everything right but after getting it all back together. I do not have any steering at all. So what did I do wrong?
- Thread starter jamesalred
- Start date
Ultradog MN
Well-known Member
- Location
- Twin Cities
Did you remove the hydraulic block?
If so did you tighten the nut according to the book?
If so did you tighten the nut according to the book?
jamesalred
New User
Yes, I had to replace the seal in the bottom block, and I did not have a book on how to replace the nut.
Ultradog MN
Well-known Member
- Location
- Twin Cities
Ok.
You need a manual!
Pull the top tube back off.
Remove the nut on top of the block. Remove the spring washer. Look at the shaft. You will see what looks like a shallow keyway there.
Look at the warpy washer. That washer is a spring and must not be over tightened. Put the spring back on then the nut. Tighten the nut down till it touches the spring.
Then tighten it 1/6 turn more.
Then take a small punch and stake the top of the nut into that keyway.
If you didn't let the balls, springs and plungers fall out of the hydraulic block when you removed it you should be good to go.
Post back with your results.
You need a manual!
Pull the top tube back off.
Remove the nut on top of the block. Remove the spring washer. Look at the shaft. You will see what looks like a shallow keyway there.
Look at the warpy washer. That washer is a spring and must not be over tightened. Put the spring back on then the nut. Tighten the nut down till it touches the spring.
Then tighten it 1/6 turn more.
Then take a small punch and stake the top of the nut into that keyway.
If you didn't let the balls, springs and plungers fall out of the hydraulic block when you removed it you should be good to go.
Post back with your results.
Bern
Well-known Member
- Location
- Mount Vernon, WA
You know, I've gone through many of those boxes, but it has been many years ago. I don't know if I've been doing it wrong all of these years or not, but I always tightened the nut down until it bottomed (spring washer flattened), and then backed it off one flat. Always seemed to work just fine. You say tighten it down until it just touches, and then tighten one more flat.
The BOOK says "tighten nut until all slack is removed, and then back off 1/6 turn".
I wonder if the book means tighten until flat, or tighten until the nut just touches the spring washer?
The BOOK says "tighten nut until all slack is removed, and then back off 1/6 turn".
I wonder if the book means tighten until flat, or tighten until the nut just touches the spring washer?
Ultradog MN
Well-known Member
- Location
- Twin Cities
That's an interesting question Bern.
I only have the I&T manual.
Are you reading the big Ford manual?
I wonder what that says.
I only have the I&T manual.
Are you reading the big Ford manual?
I wonder what that says.
Bern
Well-known Member
- Location
- Mount Vernon, WA
.
on the 10 series...Taken from the Ford Repair Manual,,,again for a 2610.
Page 11 Chapter 4 (8-81)
6. With the dished pre-load washer on the shaft, tighten the retaining nut untill fully compressed. Slacken the nut 1/6 of a turn and stake the nut to the shaft slot.
Let me see if I can dig up the 100 series ford repair manual and see what it says.
Okay found the 2600 series Ford Repair Manual...
Part 9, chapter 4, page11
6. With the dished pre-load washer on the shaft, tighten the retaining nut until the dished washer is fully compressed. Slacken the nut 1/6 of a turn and stake the nut to the shaft slot. Figure 16
Page 11 Chapter 4 (8-81)
6. With the dished pre-load washer on the shaft, tighten the retaining nut untill fully compressed. Slacken the nut 1/6 of a turn and stake the nut to the shaft slot.
Let me see if I can dig up the 100 series ford repair manual and see what it says.
Okay found the 2600 series Ford Repair Manual...
Part 9, chapter 4, page11
6. With the dished pre-load washer on the shaft, tighten the retaining nut until the dished washer is fully compressed. Slacken the nut 1/6 of a turn and stake the nut to the shaft slot. Figure 16
Bern
Well-known Member
- Location
- Mount Vernon, WA
Thank you for posting that. The hundred series manual makes the most sense, and I also feel better about it now, since that's what I recall doing. I have the thousand series manual, and its description is a little vague.
jamesalred
New User
Thank you gentleman I will see if that works.
Ultradog MN
Well-known Member
- Location
- Twin Cities
Good post Bern.
I've been doing it wrong all these years.
Here is what the I&T FO-31 manual says:
"Place spring washer on shaft against small bearing race with cup side of washer towards the race. Install a new lock nut, tighten the nut so that all end play is removed, then loosen the nut 1/6 turn and stake the nut to locating slot in steering slot as shown in fig. 16."
I've been doing it wrong all these years.
Here is what the I&T FO-31 manual says:
"Place spring washer on shaft against small bearing race with cup side of washer towards the race. Install a new lock nut, tighten the nut so that all end play is removed, then loosen the nut 1/6 turn and stake the nut to locating slot in steering slot as shown in fig. 16."
Bern
Well-known Member
- Location
- Mount Vernon, WA
I never have liked I&T manuals, and this is one reason why. More information is always better.
Ultradog MN
Well-known Member
- Location
- Twin Cities
I'm starting to understand why.
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