Help Ford 5610

RAO

New User
New member here,I have spent sometime on this site but never had to post a question. I will say there is an unlimited amount of info. and knowledge here. With that being said i want to thank everyone in advance that is involved with this site.Tractor info>
Tractor #C760978
Mod. #LA414C
Unit #6E6E
Engine #6D9A
Trans. #6D09B
Rear axel #5M10B
Hyd. pump #6D2B
Hyd. lift #6C14B

I picked up " what i think is a 1986 " Ford 5610 ll at a sale, to use as a second tractor on the farm. Tractor is sound,solid and runs out very good. I am somewhat familiar with the 1000 series but have no experience with the 10 series. The tractor has had remote valves in the past by the hose connections off valve under seat. I need to add at least one remote valve to this tractor. New Holland prices are out of MY world. Seen a 5610 somewhere that pressure line came off valve under seat to double aftermarket valves with return back to top of rear housing,dont remember where i seen it. If this is possible,enough pressure,volume,heating issue,etc.?? This tractor does have the metal hyd. lines that run to cooler in front of radiator. I dont have to have all parts OEM, but like everything in its place and out of the way. Sorry about the long post,just trying to give all info.I do have a repair manual in route. Need help on this . I will post pictures soon. Thanks
 
Welcome to you, new member.

Don"t fret, NH parts prices are out of my world too.

Your tractor came from the factory with at least one remote valve, so if it"s gone, someone took it off.

I think I would search tractor wrecking yards for a used valve setup off of a similar rig. They come in single and double configurations. Remote valves off of a hundred series tractor will NOT work.
 
Mod. #LA414C:
LA4 is a 5610
The 1 means it has a diesel engine
The second 4 means that it has 540 rpm independent PTO
The C at the end means that it has the 8 speed transmission

Unit #6E6E:
The first 6 means that it was made in a year ending in a 6, and since the 5610 was made from 1981-1993, the only year in that range that ended in a 6 was 1986.
The first E means it was made in the month of May, and the second 6 means that it was made on the 6th day of the month, so May 6, 1986 is the day that it rolled off of the production line. The E at the end is likely actually a B, as the last character should be A, B or C, indicating which shift at the factory made it. B would be the day shift.

Tractor #C760978: This is the serial number, and it is a 1986 serial number, so that agrees with the Unit# above.

The rest of the numbers are just the assembly dates of each of the major components on the tractor:

Engine #6D9A - April 9, 1986 Midnight shift
Trans. #6D09B - April 9, 1986 day shift
Rear axel #5M10B - December 10, 1985 day shift
Hyd. pump #6D2B April 2, 1986 day shift
Hyd. lift #6C14B March 14, 1986 day shift.

I'm not that familiar with the 10 series hydraulics either. Bern and others on here are a wealth of knowledge so they should steer you in the right direction.
 
(quoted from post at 04:47:32 09/06/14) Mod. #LA414C:
LA4 is a 5610
The 1 means it has a diesel engine
The second 4 means that it has 540 rpm independent PTO
The C at the end means that it has the 8 speed transmission

Unit #6E6E:
The first 6 means that it was made in a year ending in a 6, and since the 5610 was made from 1981-1993, the only year in that range that ended in a 6 was 1986.
The first E means it was made in the month of May, and the second 6 means that it was made on the 6th day of the month, so May 6, 1986 is the day that it rolled off of the production line. The E at the end is likely actually a B, as the last character should be A, B or C, indicating which shift at the factory made it. B would be the day shift.

Tractor #C760978: This is the serial number, and it is a 1986 serial number, so that agrees with the Unit# above.

The rest of the numbers are just the assembly dates of each of the major components on the tractor:

Engine #6D9A - April 9, 1986 Midnight shift
Trans. #6D09B - April 9, 1986 day shift
Rear axel #5M10B - December 10, 1985 day shift
Hyd. pump #6D2B April 2, 1986 day shift
Hyd. lift #6C14B March 14, 1986 day shift.

I'm not that familiar with the 10 series hydraulics either. Bern and others on here are a wealth of knowledge so they should steer you in the right direction.
 
The ONLY way you're adding remotes to that tractor is either with the original factory style, either new or used... or if you can find a local hydraulics shop that is FAMILIAR WITH THAT SYSTEM, they can probably spec you out with an aftermarket valve that will work and then you can do some more conventional plumbing where you will not have the break-away couplers that were originally fitted.
Reality here is that nothing will be cheap when it comes to remote hydraulics on that tractor.

The older style stuff you're referring to with the valve under the seat or the diverter plates do not work on that tractor because the priority valve pack that it's fitted with is integral to it's hitch system and can't be removed or altered.
The upside is that it is a pretty good system when it works properly; much better than the open center systems of old.

Rod
 
So what exactly does that fit? You're tossing that number around the other day as fitting a 4610 and now a 5610... and those two tractors have vastly different requirements on their priority packs... so would you care to provide some more information as to who exactly sells this thing and what it's actually for?

Rod
 
Sorry, can't help with a cheap remote but you have one of the last Michigan (US) built farm tractors. 1986 was the last for farm tractors and 1988 was the last for industrial tractors before moving overseas.
 
If you know something, why not explain it here where the rest of us can see it? If it's something that actually works others might be interested...

Rod
 
Having trouble finding your e-mail address Harry in Ky. Sorry for taking so long to get back to you.
 
(quoted from post at 03:18:35 09/07/14) So what exactly does that fit? You're tossing that number around the other day as fitting a 4610 and now a 5610... and those two tractors have vastly different requirements on their priority packs... so would you care to provide some more information as to who exactly sells this thing and what it's actually for?

Rod
This site has a listing for the plate in question

http://www.external_link.com/ford_tractor_hydraulic_adapter_kits_320_ctg.htm
 
(quoted from post at 03:18:35 09/07/14) So what exactly does that fit? You're tossing that number around the other day as fitting a 4610 and now a 5610... and those two tractors have vastly different requirements on their priority packs... so would you care to provide some more information as to who exactly sells this thing and what it's actually for?

Rod
This site has a listing for the plate in question

http://www.external_link.com/ford_tractor_hydraulic_adapter_kits_320_ctg.htm
 
If that is what the others are talking about... then I assume it's ported correctly to work on 10 series hydraulics. Do note that it says it will work where clearance is NOT an issue. Meaning... open station tractors only for the most part because clearance is an issue on every one I've seen with a cab.
I still don't really see what anyone is really saving doing this. You buy the abortion plate so you can use a cheap leaker of a valve that has poor control and gain poor system response with the package vs looking around and you can probably get a good aftermarket ccls valve for about the same money as this plate and valve... and it fully integrates into the system.
I just don't see the point... but whatever works.

Rod
 
Thanks to everyone for your input. Got my IT manual in yesterday, SOOOO GLAD i ordered it. After looking manual over and talking to hyd. mechanic at a New Holland shop, as everyone said CCLS. Having lots of trouble finding valve set up USED. Found a valve at AGKITS.COM, the part number is the same as Ford/NH # 81864874 for a 2 spool valve. Any help with this project would be appreciated. I wanted you all to check this valve out first before i call this co. The valve appears to be just that,with no manifolds????? I was going to ask if there was a connection for the small load sensing line. I NEED EVERYONES INPUT ON THIS. Don't want to order something that won't work.
 

Rod,, these new series of plates recently started to appear on the european market and have made it over here. I have a customer who has one and has not installed it yet. But he will install it and run it to the cc remotes for his frontend loader and keep his rear remotes for other uses.

One version has a power before port, a ccl power port and a return port. What does all of that mean? I dont know. Does the parts exist.. yes.. He actually has the part in hand, I hauled his tractor for him and he's been too busy working to install it. I will follow up on the progress when ever he gets around to it.

There are at least 3 versions of the plate for cc ford tractors out there that I have seen.

PLease dont be mad for us showing REAL parts even though you like the factory system better.
 
From what I can see on the link that was provided... it's just a sandwich plate. You remove the priority pack, install and fit the plate and O-rings in place, then reinstall the priority pack on top.
You have to realise that on that tractor, the priority pack is integral to the three point hitch controls (feathering valve), contains the main pump unload valve and also has a combining/sequencing valve for the second pump which also contains a circuit relief valve for the factory remotes. You CAN NOT remove the priority pack.
The question at this point is whether or not you have sufficient space to mount both the sandwich plate and the priority pack?

Rod
 
My observation has been that there are people here who advocate using these adapters who have inadequate knowledge of these hydraulic systems... and they lead people down the garden path thinking they can find a cheap solution for a problem when none exists.
While I expect you have more knowledge of these systems than most here, it was not clear to me exactly what you were advocating when last week you suggested using (from my perspective) the same adapter on a 3 cylinder chassis tractor as has been suggested using on this 5610... when those two hydraulic systems are ported entirely differently.
While I expect one could use just about any adapter plate from times past on the 3 cylinder, one for a 4 cylinder 10 would need to be very specific to that system so as to maintain the appropriate valves and ports in the priority pack.
At the end of the day I don't see what anyone gains by buying this plate unless it's actually just a 'tee' type of splitter that saves having to cut and splice the remote manifold lines to feed another pair of valves. For that purpose... I can see using it although I'd probably still opt for a handful of compression fittings and tee's.
Installing tandem center valves on those tractors really makes no sense to me.

Rod
 
Rod, after getting acquainted with the 10 series system, I see exactly what you are saying. I know now that i need a CCLS valve for this system to work properly. From what I understand, the 10 series is not the only series set up this way,the newer T-series valve would work,{ no expert here NH mechanic told me this at the shop }. I have a good understanding of the system now. Found a salvage yard in OH that has lots of old fords along with probably 12 of the 10-series tractors, visited today,the owner wanted 2000 for a double "very used " valve,nothing else. I walked away,the new valve is 1140.00 from NH and I know around 900 to 1000 for 2 manifolds.
 
(reply to post at 09:18:30 09/13/14)
Rod, I found a site , AGKITS.COM with what appears to be the same valve, new. The same NH part number # 81864874 if you would check this out,tell me what you think,the brand,etc. I ask the tech dept. was this a CCLS valve and was there a port for the load sensing line,they wanted to check with manufacture and get back to me. I know i would still need 2 manifolds but they are easier to find. THANKS TO EVERYONE,this is a very helpful site and just want to commend everyone for taking YOUR TIME to share YOUR KNOWLEDGE and YOUR EXPERIENCE with MILLIONS out there. THIS IS AN AWESOME SERVICE YOU PROVIDE. THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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This is what i have on my tractor, PICTURES ABOVE. I only have the Trans. side mounted Hyd. pump. The aux. motor mounted pump is something i will add later,if and when i add a loader to this tractor. The valve add on will only be used for typical jobs,disk mower,bush hog, etc. No Hyd. drive motors. Thanks
 
I just wanted an opinion on the valve at AGKITS.COM just type in the NH part number 81864874 on there site, dont want to order something that dont work.
 

Take a chill pill...

Most 5610s dont have double pumps... so the second feed is not used on the priority valve pack. If someone remove the priority pack and put a dummy plate on, then the new plate will allow you to now add a cc control. If someone did not remove the priority plate, the plate again will allow you to tap into the system with common hydraulic fittings and hoses. Yes it says assuming you have clearance to add the plate.

I dont make the NEW three different plates, but again, they are now on the market for the 10 series tractors. My cross hydraulic valves can be cc or oc by simply changing the return blocking plug, so it should work as advirtised.

At least the europeans are making this plate work.

Like the aftermarket front end bolsters for the 6600 series, the aftermarket parts were made in a batch, and as they are sold off, they will be harder to find. Again, my experience..
 

Pictures are worth a thousand words. It appears you have the priority pack and someone pulled all the lines, and rear fittings off the tractor along with all the linkage and levers. You could try to purchase whats missing from a salvage yard or go aftermarket with a power beyond block. (assuming you have clearance).
 
Sotxbill why do i need the plate,can't i get pressure off the left rear of priority valve and dump return in big plug behind seat on top of housing???? "see picture" Load sensing comes off the small plug on left side of priority valve,right ????? I need your opinion about the new valve i found on AGKITS.COM part number # 81864874. I have found everything i need," used " except the valve, well i did find one valve at salvage yard, very used valve, the guy wanted 2000 for only the valve, i said no thanks.
 
You have everything you need on this tractor to supply a set of remotes now. The decision you need to make is do you want to find an aftermarket CCLS valve and plumb that up with a set of pioneer couplers or do you want to find an aftermarket tandem center valve and plumb that with pioneer couplers?
As I've said before, it's not necessarily easy to find an aftermarket source of a decent CCLS valve... and that's because I find it's hard, at least in this area... to find someone that knows and understands what you need. This is one area I think Bern probably has a lot more experience... I find locally when I talk to dealers about a CCLS valve, their eyes glaze over... they tell me it's expensive... and I don't want it. What they're really telling me is they know nothing about the subject or their product line and they just don't want to sell it... but what is needed is someone who understands that you NEED a CCLS valve and knows how to spec that out in a line that they retail.

The OEM style Ford valves are expensive because they're a TOP end, Rexroth (Bosch) valve of the best quality you're going to find with an integrated manifold using breakaway quick couplers. Most of the Pioneer stuff you find in terms of couplers is not the breakaway type... and not nearly as good over a lot of use. Limited use... OK. everyday use... in my opinion, not so much... and they're not going to couple under pressure or unhook if a machine breaks loose on you and you drive away from the hoses. Believe me, that happens.
If you're looking at an aftermarket version of the valve block that you linked yesterday... I know nothing about it. I'd assume it works provided you have the manifolds... just that the manifolds are not cheap either. There's nothing cheap about the hydraulics on these tractors... but there's cheap and there's good too...

Rod
 
I didn't say it can't work. I said I don't see the bloody point.
Nothing to do with one pump, two pumps or 10 pumps either.
Bottom line here is that priority pack MUST stay in place on a 4 hole 10 series chassis, whether you use the dummy plate or not.

Rod
 

RAO
Try this place to see if they have the factory CCLS valve you need.They are nice people to do business with plus the offer FREE shipping on most online orders $200 or more.
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I think when you get right down to the nuts and bolts of it, just about any CCLS stack from any color tractor would work for you if you take the time to plumb it and mount it securely. Most stuff today uses some form of load sensing hydraulic system, mostly in conjunction with a variable displacement piston pump... but the valves are the same for this system. There's not really any need to limit yourself to one source. Fawcett Tractor in southern Ontario is another place to try for used. If they have it they're generally pretty reasonable to deal with. They may also have new aftermarket. I don't know if they have that... but they do sell a lot of aftermarket parts.

Rod
 
Right at the time I think I have the system figured out with the manual and your guys input the NH mechanic calls me up and says ' I WAS THINKING ON YOUR TRACTOR< YOUR TRACTOR ONLY HAS THE ONE HYDRAULIC PUMP ON SIDE OF TRANS< YOU DONT HAVE TO HAVE A CCLS VALVE< YOU CAN GET PRESSURE OFF THE PRIORITY VALVE AND RETURN BACK TO SUMP WITH ANY VALVE, THE TRACTOR IS OPEN CENTER<THE CCLS VALVE IS WHAT MAKES IT A CLOSED SYSTEM< he says, YOU CAN ADD AUX,MOTOR MOUNT PUMP FOR SAY A LOADER AND HAVE TWO SEPARATE SYSTEMS THAT DONT HAVE TO BE TIED TOGETHER< ONLY WHEN TRACTOR COMES WITH BOTH SYSTEMS TIED TOGETHER AND YOU WANT TO TIE INTO THE FACTORY SYSTEM WITH HARD LINES DO YOU NEED A CCLS VALVE<HE SAYS I DONT NEED ADAPTOR PLATE<POWER BE ON PLATE<GET PRESSURE OFF PRIORITY. Now I am confused again, this mechanic is very young and may know what he's talking about but I would feel better to here from you guys with more experience before i start paying the GREEN BACK'S out. Can this work,will there be issues??????
 

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