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Tractor is cranking without the switch on

C

crawdad185

Member
My Jubilee was converted to 12V by its previous owner. I haven't been able to use the starter button and I thought it might be the solenoid as it was some aftermarket 4 post design.
I put on a new solenoid and when I went to put on the ground cable, the tractor started cranking on its own. I didn't have the switch on so I'm at a loss for what might be wrong. I think everything is wired correctly as I followed a schematic to make sure. Can anyone who is more versed in electrical stuff help me out with this? Thanks
 
Could be a couple of problems. #1 could be you hooked up the solenoid back wards since some have a battery side and starter side and if hooked up backwards they can do funny things.
#2 you may have the incorrect type of solenoid.
#3 the starter button maybe stuck down. Many of the older fords the ignition switch does not need to be turned on for the starter button to work as in the starter will spin it over if pushed with or with out thew ignition on
 
Wrong type of solenoid. Need one for a 12v tractor application NOT a 12v car. Yes, they are different!
 
I disconnected the starter button and it did the same thing.
I got the solenoid at tractor supply. It is a 3 post for a Ford 8N. It is a 6V solenoid, but the guy said it would work with 12 volts.
 
Hook up wrong then. You have the battery side to the starter and the starter side to the battery or it is just plan Chine junk that does not work
 
If it us a 3 wire ford tractor solenoid, remove the small wire from it and see if it cranks touching up bat cables, if so pull solenoid, the large lugs may be shorted together, check with ohm meter.

As you know, 3 wire solenoids for fires fo nit need the key switch turned on as the solenoid I hot from the battery, but gets ground from the thumb switch
 
It is pretty easy to get them on backwards or like I said be China junk that is bad right out of the box
 
I pulled the solenoid and checked the post. No indication whatsoever of which is the BAT side. I'm pretty sure I've got it right, however. It is built exactly like the original one that came on it, and its hard to put it on any other way than the way I had it. I think its junk.
 
I checked the resistance through the solenoid and I'm getting a reading of zero/none.
I checked the old one just to make sure the meter was working correctly and I got resistance through it. I think this solenoid is junk.
 
Continuity from big post to big post when disconnected means it is shorted, if it I non returnable, give it a whack with a screwdriver handle, may pop free
 
Very likely since you said you got it at TSC which for the most part sells junk made in China. Go to a good auto parts store like NAPA or O'Reilly's and get one like you have but made in the USA
 
BTW, forgot to mention that this solenoid has a button on the bottom of it. You know what this is? Maybe a reset button of some sort.
 
It's a manual button to make the solenoid connect.
I've had several of those things stick.
I whack them with a screwdriver handle.
If they release and don't stick again, good to go.
If they release but then stick again later, it seems
like they will keep doing it forever.
And yes, the 6V solenoids work fine on 12V.
 
Seen that a few times on junk solenoids it is there to unstick the things in theory
 
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