12 volt conversion

This is a shout out to all who posted back a few weeks ago when I was seeking advice about converting my 6 volt to a 12 volt on my 8N. I did the work yesterday and she is now running.I purchased the kit from YT and have no complaints. I did not need the balistor resistor as I opted for the Penatonix 12 volt coil which gave me the required resistance without it.I replaced the spark plugs and points and condenser as well.The tractor sat for over a year and when I hopped on and put her in gear I found that the clutch was not operating so it was a little hairy for a minute. Any thoughts on what I should do to check the clutch situation? It was the end of the day so I did not get into it yet.Thanks to all again for your good advice and assistance.
 
Very common for the clutch disk to rust to the flywheel and cause that problem. When you park it block the clutch pedal down and you will not have that problem. My 8N has a cement block on the pedal because of that rust problem
 
Thanks for the suggestion. So my situation is I can engage a gear but then it locks in and won't disengage when I depress the clutch readily. I have to fight with it. Is there something you can recommend that could free it up.
 
It's not clear what you are describing:

Are you saying, you can press the clutch, out it in gear, but the when you press the clutch again it stays engaged,

Or

Are you saying when you press the clutch, it does nit release so you can't put it into gear without jambing in?

First issue is a sticky clutch.. Could be oiky, 2nd is just plain stuck clutch, block it a day, it might pop loose, if not, leave it blocked, lick brakes, put in high gear, then use a screwdriver and while setting I seat bypass the starter interlock switch, just bump it, keep just bumping it..
 
Thanks for the reply. I can put it in gear from a dead stop but when I try to shift while moving I can not get it out of gear, it feels locked in gear.Then if i keep at it suddenly will break free but i don't really have any control when it happens. I will try your suggestion as well.
 
"when I try to shift while moving"

These are not synchronized transmissions.
You are not supposed to be able to shift them while moving.
 
I am not clear on you stating the Pertronix gives you the correct resistance so you can use the existing coil without a resistor. I thought they were an open collector device that replaced the points, if so, that does not increase resistance.
 
(quoted from post at 22:55:08 08/31/14) I am not clear on you stating the Pertronix gives you the correct resistance so you can use the existing coil without a resistor. I thought they were an open collector device that replaced the points, if so, that does not increase resistance.

Pertronix sells other things in addition to their electronic ignition system, one of which is a coil that they advertise as being matched to their EI system and does not require an external resistor.
 
Hi Sean, I apologize if I was not clear.I did not put in an electronic ignition when I did the conversion. I had to replace my old coil anyway so I replaced it with the new coil which is designed to offer the correct resistance and as a result I did not have to install the resistor in line before the coil.
 
Hi Royse, I guess I was not clear there.The issue
here is that once it is in gear and I am
moving I can not get it out of gear because the
clutch is not working properly so i can stand on
the clutch and the tractor will keep moving in
gear.
 
You do nit shift that granny while moving, only when stopped, select what gear to use then go, you don't shift up thru the gears like a truck
 
If it will not come out of gear while moving, that is good.
If the tractor will not stop, that's a problem.
Makes me wonder how you got it in gear though.
Have you adjusted the clutch per the manual?
If the clutch is just sticking to the flywheel, driving
it around in gear, clutch pushed in and stabbing the
brakes will likely clean it up unless it is coated in oil.
Only correct way to resolve an oil soaked clutch that I know
of is to split it and replace it along with the leaking seal(s).
 

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