850 Blow by

Tim23 · Aug 29, 2014

Hey guys, I haven't had a chance to mess with the 850 I bought a couple of months ago but if the weather is ok I might put some time into it next week on my stay-cation. The PO said the OP was good the last time the gauge was hooked up, but he broke the plastic line while mowing. My plan is to get that hooked back up and maybe a new gauge. If that checks good then maybe a compression check.
I was thinking I might hook it up to the plow or disk and work it hard for a while to see what it does. I haven't run the tractor but for a few minutes, just off the trailer and parked in the yard.
Can I hurt things by working it? Royce.. you said you had one that working it good and hard cured it. I'm guessing that would be the rings un-sticking.
Let me know what you guys think.

old · Aug 29, 2014

Put say a 1/4 cup of ATF in each cylinder and let it be for say 3 or so days then try to start it. If it hydo lock pull the plugs back out and spin it over to clear the cylinder and try to start it after that. ATF should free up the rings and clean the cylinders

Royse · Aug 30, 2014

Yes, I did just what Old described, soaked the cylinders for a
while and then worked it hard to unstick the rings.

To be clear, what that "cured" was a smoking exhaust, not
low oil pressure. I don't want anyone to think it might help OP.

I would hook up an OP gauge just like you planned. It doesn't
take too long running them without OP to cause major damage.
Let us know how it goes!

souNdguy · Aug 30, 2014

if it's new to you. put an OP gauge on it asap. if it has op on a start, service it with cheap walmart oil. Either dose the oil and gas with atf-f or dex/merc 3 fluid ( repalce 1 of the quarts ). or mix in MMO. new oil filter too.

hit some seafoam in the gas tank.. and clean the air cleaner. make sure no milk in the trans, hyds and rear oil... topp off those 3 sumps as needed... check coolant.. ps fluid. grease fittings.. etc.

gap points nad clean plugs and then go run the heck out of her for a couple hours before you make any decisions on the engine.

if engien turns out ok. go ahead and acess the rest of the machine and service her planning any repairs in with the service.

NNP · Aug 31, 2014

agree with the guys, no run at all until OP can be verified.

Tractors are so tough, normal machinery maintenance is
pretty much always neglected.
Oil everywhere needs checking , 99% of the time...changing.
I automatically figure in $100-$200 or so into the purchase price.
(some old tractors take a LOT of gear oil)
Grease it and do the front wheel bearings, they'll need it too.

Boring, endless, drudgery when buying old stuff, but it needs to be done.

Probably have had at least a hundred tractors thru here over the years. Only 1, a 4000, didn't need all oil changed. Cracking the drain plugs on that one showed no water, no sediment, just clean oil. Made me so suspicious, I rechecked everything

no problems, just good maintenance. unusual.

David G · Aug 31, 2014

Give it a GOOD power washing, that way you can see the actual leaks.

Tim23 · Sep 4, 2014

Update
I worked yesterday on trying to verify OP. I rigged up a short line to a gauge and nothing. Tried it with the gauge off and nothing out of the line. Primed the galley through the oil filter return and tried it again. I got maybe 5psi at higher rpms. Also, with the gauge off it was spitting oil, like it was sucking air. I done all this before putting new oil n, the stick said it had an acceptable level and didnt look like there was any water n it. I drained the oil, it was black but no milk. Plug had to be heated before it would come out. The cup around the pick up tube was off center of the plug pretty bad. No screen. I took the pan off to check the pick up. Some sludge n pan, a few beads of water n the bottom along with some brass shavings

I dont have an air compressor so i rigged up a pump for an air mattress. Everything good and leak free i pumped air up the pick up tube and could see no leaks. I went around and took the oil filter off and could pump enough air through to bubble oil out of the hole going into the filter.

Are the brass shavings a death senence? Wasnt a lot of them. Also, it didnt seem like enough oil came out when i pulled the plug. Could it just have been low? Is there anything else i can do while i have the pan off? And yes, i know i need the screen around the pick up tube, i will b getting one. Thanks everyone for all the help u provide on this board.

showcrop · Sep 4, 2014

(quoted from post at 13:17:36 09/04/14) Update
I worked yesterday on trying to verify OP. I rigged up a short line to a gauge and nothing. Tried it with the gauge off and nothing out of the line. Primed the galley through the oil filter return and tried it again. I got maybe 5psi at higher rpms. Also, with the gauge off it was spitting oil, like it was sucking air. I done all this before putting new oil n, the stick said it had an acceptable level and didnt look like there was any water n it. I drained the oil, it was black but no milk. Plug had to be heated before it would come out. The cup around the pick up tube was off center of the plug pretty bad. No screen. I took the pan off to check the pick up. Some sludge n pan, a few beads of water n the bottom along with some brass shavings I dont have an air compressor so i rigged up a pump for an air mattress. Everything good and leak free i pumped air up the pick up tube and could see no leaks. I went around and took the oil filter off and could pump enough air through to bubble oil out of the hole going into the filter.

Are the brass shavings a death senence? Wasnt a lot of them. Also, it didnt seem like enough oil came out when i pulled the plug. Could it just have been low? Is there anything else i can do while i have the pan off? And yes, i know i need the screen around the pick up tube, i will b getting one. Thanks everyone for all the help u provide on this board.

I can't think of where brass shavings would come from. The bearings are steel covered with copper then the actual bearing material which is some sort of tin compound. While the oil pan is off remove and check your main and rod bearings one at a time. Remove only the bottoms at this point and leave the rear alone. You should see a good portion of the silver material worn away and a lot of copper showing with such low oil pressure. This will give you an idea of general wear on the motor. There can be other reasons for very low oil pressure.

Tim23 · Sep 4, 2014

Sry showcrop, didnt see ur post n time. I put the pan back on and filled it with 10w-30. Got +-60 cold at mid rpm (no tach). A little shy of 50 after it warmed up but i only ran it maybe 10min. I was just saying brass, it could have been copper. I straightened out the pickup tube and got it more or less back to the right spot. I guess it was just low on oil. I dont understand why it was showing good on the stick though. I checked it after i shut it down and it was just a little over the half way point between add and full. Im gonna check it again tomorrow then have a look at the other fluids and shoot a little grease n it. Its MUCH harder to steer than my N.

850 Blow by

Tim23

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old

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Royse

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souNdguy

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NNP

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David G

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Tim23

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showcrop

Well-known Member

Tim23

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