Ford 3000 Drag link end - nut is stuck to stud

The bottom 3/4" nut is stuck to the stud so that they turn together and the nut will not remove from the stud. With nothing to "grab" onto on the other side I can not figure out how to do this simple replacement that my shop manual tells me is "self evident".

1.5 minute video is attached.
drag link nut and stud stuck together

You can try and impact wrench or just cut it off you are replacing it anyway.

You need a "nut splitter", or if you can cut the nut with an angle grinder, being careful not to cut the tie rod end. Once the nut is off you need a fork shaped "tie rod end remover"like is used in automotive tie rod end removal; hammer it in between your tie rod end and the steering arm and it should "pop off". when you're set up & ready to drive the fork in, a bit of heat applied where you want it to "pop" will help. Since the tie rod end is already "turning" in the arm it must be somewhat loose and should come of easily.
Good luck!

If you are replacing the tie rod end anyway just take an angle grinder with a slitting wheel and cut the whole nut and shaft off.

You can use a pickle fork (tierod/balljoint splitter) to drive between the joint and the mounting arm.

Hammer & cold chisel. Anybody remember what a cold chisel is?

I usually use a bar to pry away on the drag link and use an air gun to run the nut off.

Rod

Actually, your comments, thanks all, make me wonder if and or how bad this joint is, so I made two more videos.

The end is tightly in the drag link and I have read horror stories here about separating an end from a drag link.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7b4rrOpgYkw&feature=youtu.be

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZMvkeq2B188&feature=youtu.be

First video(Just 44 seconds) full weight on front tires, second (37 secs) no weight on tires.

IMHO, Rod has the best answer. If you don't have an air gun, try finding a friend to stand on top of the tie rod end to force the assembly down onto the arm to help hold the ball stud still while you turn the nut. Alternatively, use a big pry bar and figure out a way to pry that arm DOWN.

Once the ball joint is removed, carefully inspect the bore in the arm. It should be tapered and round (in other words, a perfect mate to the stud), not tapered and ovaled out. If the hole in the arm is worn, you'll likely not get the new ball joint tight. You'll either need to replace the arm or JB weld it.

Thanks Bern and Rod, I have an air gun and will do so,

Just in case you guys like pictures, here is a pic of my whole tractor, just converted the single bucket cylinder to duals and added a ROPS and roof, welder did all the welding.

I just watched your videos. The "side-to-side" movement you commented on in your first video and observed on both sides is NORMAL. However, the looseness in the RH end that you showed in your second video is NOT.

I'd like to see another video like you did with the second video, but this time, angle the camera so we can see the bottom nut. I can almost guarantee you that this nut is moving back and forth as well. The nut SHOULD move as one with the arm, locked down to it, not rock back and forth. Compare this with the LH side, it is NOT moving I'm sure.

I'm guessing that your ball joint is just fine, however you lost the taper fit between the stud and the arm, and now the hole in your steering arm is egged out.

Here you go Bern, the right bottom nut is real loose and sloppy, the left nut is real tight.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9-p6QDzwIAY

That RH side is so bad you can see the gap between the nut and the arm. I'd bet the hole in the arm is badly worn, and that the ball joint and stud is OK.

Get a big pry bar and pry DOWN on the tie rod while someone else loosens the nut. The reason you want to pry down and not up is because you are trying to hold the stud from spinning, and forcing it down into the arm is the best way to do this. If you have an air gun, prying down while rattling it loose (2-man job ideally) should get it off no problem. With that loader frame on there, finding something for a pry point should not be hard. Finding someone heavy to stand on it with the heel of one boot should also work. Just make sure they hang on to something.

It came off very easy with all of your help, big thanks!, I have a few more questions, I counted the threads to position the new one on at 4-5 threads, but I assume this is only approximate, how do I get a fairly accurate toe in-out adjustment out of this replacement? (besides eye-balling it)

Two more short videos:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IsroByjwqQk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tDdhZVGA8WU

Let me start by saying that I think it's really cool that you are showing us what you're doing via video. Even though some of the earlier ones were a little shaky, it's still a great way to get your point across. I really like it.

Your arm appears to me to be a little worn, but I can't tell for sure - I think I am more SUSPECTING a worn arm because of how loose is was. If the hole is not round 360 degrees at any one depth, it's worn. A quick check with the inside jaws of a calipers would confirm this real quick.

If the hole is not round, I'd either replace it, or, if you don't want to spring for a new arm, buy a pack of JB weld and coat the bore of the arm with the stuff before you put the ball joint on. The JB weld will fill the gaps and should hold just fine if done properly.

You didn't say how you got the old nut off, but if the new nut is a locknut, you'll most likely have to put the new nut on the same way you got the old one off, by putting some weight on top of the arm while you tighten the nut. Make SURE the nut bottoms out and gets tight! If it continues to spin, it's not right!

If you JB weld the arm, and the new nut is a locknut, I'd use a standard nut to attach the ball joint until the JB weld cures, then take the nut off and put on the locknut. If the new ball joint came with a castle nut, then you should have no problem bottoming it out.

After you finish your repair and use it for a while, check the tightness of the nut daily until it stays tight.

(quoted from post at 02:05:41 08/25/14) Let me start by saying that I think it's really cool that you are showing us what you're doing via video. it's still a great way to get your point across. I really like it.

Thank you!

I took your advise and used my (plastic) Caliper to test the roundness of the hole, it rubbed evenly 360 degrees around the top and I found that it does in fact have a taper to it, equally round lower down in the hole, best as I can tell, so I did not use the JB.

You didn't say how you got the old nut off,

Interesting statement, I started making yet another video because I did not understand what I should push down on (as clearly as you stated it, this guy who spent his whole life in an office, did not understand) as I tried different ways to push down I applied the 3/4" wrench I had at hand, just for giggles, and it started to loosen, so I never made the video.


After you finish your repair and use it for a while, check the tightness of the nut daily until it stays tight.

Click to expand...

The nut is a castle nut, I bottomed it out tightly and will recheck, curiously the hole in the stud is beyond the reaches of the castle nut, so it will loosen itself until it catches on the cotter pin, so i again ask you for your help.

First two pics are duplicates, sorry, I do not know how to edit, I did not bend the cotter pin around a lot as I think I will be redoing it soon,

The hole in the arm is worn, that is why the cotter pin will not engage the castle nut. You really do need to buy a new arm.

If they are no longer available, and/or you don't wish to fund a new or used arm, I'd put a flat washer under the nut so your cotter pin will work. I would also leave the cotter pin off for the first few days so that I could retighten the nut on a daily basis. I can pretty much guarantee you that if you don't, you'll have the EXACT same problem as you did before in no time. Even my plan is not a sure bet; you really need to replace that arm.

If you have the time, pop the one off the other side and compare the hole diameters with a calipers. I think you'll be surprised.

I have no problem replacing the arm, found a new one on ebay for $37, could not find one here on YT

Sounds good. Do yourself a huge favor and leave the cotter pin off for a few days so you can re-tighten the nut at the end of each WORKING day. Keep doing this until the nut does not move. This will all but eliminate the possibility of a future failure.

Better yet, tighten the nut hourly on the first day.