1956 FORD 860: no power, falters/dies above idle speed

jsmyle

New User
I am getting ready to sell my Ford 860. For the last year I have chased an overheating problem/stalling problem and finally got it straightened out. Recently I was shredding on a hot day and all went well for a couple of hours. Engine started to falter and lose power, acting like it was operating on only two or three cylinders. If I gave it gas, it would come out of it in a minute or two and run ok for 10-15 minutes and then falter again. After the 4th or 5th time it got real rough, backfired and stalled a few minutes later. I let it cool down, tried to restart it with no success. I towed it out of the field. I am just getting around to dealing with it and find no problems with carburetor adjustments (I rebuilt it 150 hours ago), airflow through air filter (oil bath), fuel flow, etc. Compression is down to 100 lbs in all 4 cylinders (from 120 last time I checked 180 hours ago) leading me to believe that the problem is with the valves (heads and valves done 180 hours ago) or leak in manifold. Does that sound reasonable or should I be looking at some other alternatives? I need to get it running well to sell it but if repairs too costly I will need to sell "as is" for a lot less.
 
ALWAYS check spoark first for a run issue, even if you don't think it is spark. Once you rule it out. you can get on with further diagnosis.

After you verify good spark. try to start her on start fluid or heavy choke. if she has great spark and runs on heavy choke or start fluid.. check fuel delivery system..
 
(quoted from post at 11:54:38 08/19/14) I am getting ready to sell my Ford 860. For the last year I have chased an overheating problem/stalling problem and finally got it straightened out. Recently I was shredding on a hot day and all went well for a couple of hours. Engine started to falter and lose power, acting like it was operating on only two or three cylinders. If I gave it gas, it would come out of it in a minute or two and run ok for 10-15 minutes and then falter again. After the 4th or 5th time it got real rough, backfired and stalled a few minutes later. I let it cool down, tried to restart it with no success. I towed it out of the field. I am just getting around to dealing with it and find no problems with carburetor adjustments (I rebuilt it 150 hours ago), airflow through air filter (oil bath), fuel flow, etc. Compression is down to 100 lbs in all 4 cylinders (from 120 last time I checked 180 hours ago) leading me to believe that the problem is with the valves (heads and valves done 180 hours ago) or leak in manifold. Does that sound reasonable or should I be looking at some other alternatives? I need to get it running well to sell it but if repairs too costly I will need to sell "as is" for a lot less.

Please tell how you checked fuel flow.
 
Thanks for the replies and ideas. Spark is good in all 4 cylinders - I tuned it up (plugs, points, cap, rotor) and put in new ignition coil about 20 hours ago. Fuel flow is both visible (into the fuel bowl) and 10 hours ago I pulled the fuel tank, put back the missing heat shield, installed a new shut off valve and blew out all the lines. Fuel flowed freely to the carb intake (fuel bowl/filter) when I hooked it back up. Giving more than a small amount of choke kills the engine.
 

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