Gave a lady a ride home and...

Beanmedic · Aug 14, 2014

She stayed! Gonna sell my 861 and keep this girl. Pics are a little fuzzy. Sorry

1979 Gasser; PS; LPTO; 4 x 1 with High Low to give 8 x 2; tires good; fresh rebuilt alternator; BUT does have a stuck clutch. Drove it around in tight turns stomping brakes. No joy. Took $300 off purchase price. I'll keep trying to free it. Any suggestions?

So until I get some books, anyone know NAPA points/condenser numbers? And is the IC14 coil appropriate? Points are crap and coil has a loose connector. Owner had trouble starting because we kept loosing fire.

GB in MT. · Aug 14, 2014

[b:9e16d2841d][i:9e16d2841d]
DB;
Going up the chain!!!!! :lol:
Dang nice looking rubber.....all around. It's got everything you wanted, and ya don't have to swap power steering into it!!!

Ya did GOOD!!!

BTW:.......Les is getting out of the hospital tomorrow morning, then, it's just waiting for word from the Spokan Doctor!!!?????

Gary :wink: [/i:9e16d2841d][/b:9e16d2841d]

Royse · Aug 14, 2014

As much as I like the x00/x01 tractors, I'd say that's the right choice!
As far as the clutch goes, if you can get some brake cleaner in
there it might help free it up. Drive it around as you said with
the clutch pedal blocked down. Maybe drop a plow in the ground
behind it? All assuming you have room to do so safely of course.
Congrats on the new tractor, looks great!

Beanmedic · Aug 14, 2014

Thank goodness she is getting out! You need her there to keep you straight.

Beanmedic · Aug 14, 2014

Thank goodness she is getting out! You need her there to keep you straight.

wayne n ind. · Aug 14, 2014

My 860 had a stuck clutch, when I got it. Old man told me to
block the clutch down an let spin. Went thru a tank of gas but it
did spin loose. He said he used to do the old oil rigs like that.
Worked on that anyway. Good luck. Nice ford.

Dean · Aug 14, 2014

PITA to change points.

Check to see if vacuum advance motor is good. Good luck if it is not.

If you ever decide to rebuild the carburetor, bite the bullet and buy the correct kit from CNH. Do not even consider an aftermarket kit. Take both tractor serial number and carburetor number to your CNH dealer in order to order the correct carburetor kit. The CNH kit is very expensive but you will be $ and time ahead if you bite the bullet for the proper kit.

Dean

RickB · Aug 15, 2014

A 2" long screw starter from the auto parts store tool rack and screws with a nice straight clean slot take the misery out of changing points. Unless you're working around 730 loader.

Ultradog MN · Aug 15, 2014

Nice!
Those three cyl jobs are my favorites.
Put electronic ignition in it and never touch your distributer again.
Looks like it's due for a new hydraulic filter too.
You will really like that tractor.

Beanmedic · Aug 15, 2014

I'm likely to have a bunch of questions because this is my first blue Ford. Manuals are on order.

After screwing with those points and the rear distributor clip yesterday to help the owner get her running, she will indeed be a candidate for EI. This site sells them for a 2000, 3000, etc. Reckon it doesn't matter, as long as 3cyl. Interesting that the description says you don't need the dust cover. I'll have to look again. On the red fords you have to use the dust cover or your distributor cap won't fit tight.

Ordered a hydraulic filter. Hydraulic fluid has water in it, so a change is in order.

Thanks for the info on the carb kit. It does need one because it is leaky. Not seen one of those carbs (only had red Fords until now). So, got to get in there and see if I can figure out what it is.

Thought about trading out the 14.8 x 24 tires and wheels with a set of 13.6 x 28 Firestones that I have. But not sure that is a good thing to do??? It's just that the Firestones are almost new. They are on an 841-D that I'll sell. Guess those 14.8 x 24 tires and wheels may not be a good fit for the 841.

Now if I can just find a hydraulic valve to go on the top cover so I can do the hydraulic top link thing. I suppose they have to be easier to find than the ones for the NAA!

sotxbill · Aug 15, 2014

I think the naa valve will fit????

Beanmedic · Aug 15, 2014

Never got one for the NAA. Do have one for an 861, but guessed it is different.

Bern · Aug 15, 2014

Oh, come now, leave that filter on. Only a few more years and it will be all one color - rust!

Ultradog MN · Aug 15, 2014

I would keep which ever set of tires is the best.
If they were about the same then I would keep the 28s as it will be easier to find weights for them than for the 24s.

souNdguy · Aug 15, 2014

check with UD on the coil. the early 3 cyl gassers still used a 6v coil and resistor wire.. not sure on the x600. if you are getting ei.. just wait and get whatever the ei kit wants for a coil, instead of buying twice.

rlester · Aug 15, 2014

My 231 developed a stuck clutch. Split the tractor and it was a broken cotter pin that allowed some clutch parts to dislodge and lock everything up.

Not sure if that is what is wrong with yours, but might be something to consider.

Beanmedic · Aug 15, 2014

I like the idea of the plow. But it's gonna be a bear to spot the tractor for mounting it.

Didn't think of the wheel weights. That is a good point!

As usual, when I get a tractor home it seems to run poorly or not start. Well, actually the PO had trouble getting it started yesterday. Kept loosing fire. That's how I began the day, no fire.

Out of habit I went ahead and pulled the points. They were OK. Buffed them with 2500 paper. Found a "floating" ground wire inside. Checked and the screws were too long. That included one that was a sheet metal screw.

Still no fire. Meter to the coil...nope. Untangling wires and back tracking. Power wire to switch was out of the connector at the solenoid, hidden by electric tape. Loose spade connector on switch. Wires unplugged under the dash. How do folks get these tractors to start? :shock:

After getting fire for the ignition she fired right up. Ran a little rough. Found one of the spark plug wires had come off the plug. Was too loose to even stay on the plug.

Anyway, she purrs now. But carb really needs rebuilding so she will ildle and not leak. Would up using the starter to get her off the trailer. Now maybe I can get to the clutch.

Royse · Aug 15, 2014

"I like the idea of the plow. But it's gonna be a bear to spot the tractor for mounting it. "

I see your point, guess I should have mentioned to use a front
end loader or a forklift to move the plow to where you need it.
Cherry picker might work too.

Ever since I've had a loader tractor I forget how I ever got along
without one. Kind of like getting along without torches!

Beanmedic · Aug 15, 2014

Hmmm...could use my Jube and lift pole. Either an AP or disc plow.

Where is the position control on the 2600? If I use the disc plow I might need that. Waiting on books.

oldtanker · Aug 15, 2014

(quoted from post at 17:59:01 08/15/14) I like the idea of the plow. But it's gonna be a bear to spot the tractor for mounting it.

Didn't think of the wheel weights. That is a good point!

As usual, when I get a tractor home it seems to run poorly or not start. Well, actually the PO had trouble getting it started yesterday. Kept loosing fire. That's how I began the day, no fire.

Out of habit I went ahead and pulled the points. They were OK. Buffed them with 2500 paper. Found a "floating" ground wire inside. Checked and the screws were too long. That included one that was a sheet metal screw.

Still no fire. Meter to the coil...nope. Untangling wires and back tracking. Power wire to switch was out of the connector at the solenoid, hidden by electric tape. Loose spade connector on switch. Wires unplugged under the dash. How do folks get these tractors to start? :shock:

After getting fire for the ignition she fired right up. Ran a little rough. Found one of the spark plug wires had come off the plug. Was too loose to even stay on the plug.

Anyway, she purrs now. But carb really needs rebuilding so she will ildle and not leak. Would up using the starter to get her off the trailer. Now maybe I can get to the clutch.

LOL I bought a Farmall M a few years back. Drove it home. Ran great. Got to using it baling hay and got on a not too bad side hill with the tractor tilted to the right. Started sputtering. Got on flat ground and it ran fine. Figured it was low on gas and the side exposed the outlet. Drove it home put gas in it. Go back to baling and it does the same thing but only when tilted right. That afternoon I got to looking over the tractor and discovered that the plug wire were so loose on the plugs that when tilted some were not passing fire to the plugs. New set of wires and all was well.

nice tractor!

Rick

Sean in PA · Aug 16, 2014

Position control is the outboard handle (farthest to the right on the quadrant). The other is draft. Leave the draft handle all the way down if you want pure lift control.

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